1969 Coronet - Ol' Drippy

[young99]

Not too much to show yet but have the 4 speed mounted but still need to install the linkage, cut out the tunnel area, drill and tap the mounting pad.



I also installed the Pertronix Distributor, this helped me clean up the firewall and get rid of quite a bit of wires. I also had to put in the over center pedal spring. Good Lord this was a PITA to do with the pedals already in the car. I have a few washers in the springs I still gota get out.

I will get more pictures together once I get it fully installed.

 

[69 GTX]

I think you should call your car Great White Chevy eating shark......

 

[73JF1Bird]

Nice Man! Well done with the photography.

 

[MT_Mopar]

Keep up the good work 99 - Looking good, nice and clean.

 

[young99]

I have been pretty busy with getting a few things done. I found out the replacement starter that was sent was bad. I went with a different company this time. I found out I can pull the steering column back and get the starter in and out pretty well.

I replaced the rear transmission seal and found a cheap install tool if you have to replace one. I used a 2" pvp cap $1.30 from home depot.

 

[NZ 70 RR]

Cool car, just been through the thread, great read and nice photos. Be following your progress with interest.

 

[MT_Mopar]

Looking great, did you get ol drippy stopped?

You fix all those leaks your going to need to change the name of your car! :blob1:

 

[sebring+]

First mopar I noticed was a 69 super bee with a sixpack. I was six years old. Been hooked ever since. Very nice coronets yous' have there. My favorite body style.

 

[young99]

Looking great, did you get ol drippy stopped?

You fix all those leaks your going to need to change the name of your car! :blob1:

LOL. Yeah it has stopped dripping. The removal of the 727 solved that issue.

Right now it should be called the headache... Trying to dent the headers for starter clearance without taking the headers back off. I'm limited on space ATM so its been a pain getting something between very hard ceramic headers and the engine.

I guess it is time for a new name Going to need some Ideas

 

[young99]

I have been pretty busy but running into alot of issue. The new 11" bell housing causing the starter to hit the header so I will have to get my exhaust guy do a little modification to get a flush fit.

I had everything installed and was able to drive it a few miles to get gas then came back. I got about 3 houses down from mine and a pop and the clutch went to the floor. I first thought I had broken loose the z bar bracket but it was the z bar coming separated from the frame side of the ball crank stud.

The clutch push rod and pedal push rod were wrong degree so I have ordered some new ones. Got the clutch rod from Dante's and looks great. Ordered the pedal rod from Classic Industries and waiting on it to come in. The only thing left I have not replaced is the Clutch Fork. I am hoping the one I have will work out.

I swapped the steering wheel out for a new one that I am testing out.

 

[young99]

I want to create something called the Grim Bee. I was playing around on the computer.
Thought it would be cool between the rear stripes

 

[Daly]

Any info on your gauge set up? I'm trying to figure out what to do with my non rallye dash and it looks like you've made something work…

 

[uwss]

Where did you get the steering wheel ? More info on the dash setup please.

 

[young99]

Any info on your gauge set up? I'm trying to figure out what to do with my non rallye dash and it looks like you've made something work…

Yeah I made the dash from scratch and was cheap and easy do do.
This is what I used:

1. I started with MFD board from Home Depot, enough to cover the dash. (same type of stuff people use to make audio boxes from)
2. Use a compass if you have one, I made one out of string and measurements at n,s,e,w of the circle. Cut out according to you gauge size (auto meter has the measurement in the included instructions). For cutting I made large hole in the center with a drill and drill bit. I then took a jigsaw and cut out each hole. If you have a dremel tool it would probably be easier. I took some sand paper/file and cleaned up the holes to be complete circles. Fit test your gauges they should fit in snug.
3. Buy some scrap fleece from a material store, just the cheapest stuff they have. Cut it out to cover the front and back of the wooden gauge cutout.
4. Coat the front of the gauge wood with some self type of strong adhesive allow it to become tacky and cover it with the fleece (I put mine in the center of the fleece so I could wrap the remainder of the fleece over the top and bottom of the wood.) I used http://www.homedepot.com/p/Loctite-13-5-oz-High-Performance-Spray-Adhesive-1408028/202365672 adhesive which I already had. Make sure the fleece fits tight with no wrinkles. After it dries I pulled the rest over the top and bottom of the wood and glued.
5. After the glue is dried I took a razor and cut out the holes for the gauges. I test fitted the gauges again then removed them. Covered the inside of the gauge holes with tin foil for the next part.
6. I took fiberglass resin and a paint brush and coated the front of the gauge fleece a couple coats and try and get it as flat as possible. http://www.homedepot.com/p/3M-Bondo-1-qt-All-Purpose-Fiberglass-Resin-20122/202077790
7. After the fiberglass resin was is dried I removed the foil from the gauge holes and test fitted gauges again.
8. I took some left over bondo and put a light coat over the front and get it as flat and smooth as possible and let dry to its instructions.
9. Sand smooth the front of the gauge panel then test fit gauges again. This should look very close to how your wanting it to turn out.
10. I removed the gauges then covered the front of the panel with faux leather using extra adhesive. I cant exactly recall where I got the faux leather at but I believe it was shelving contact paper from home depot. It was about $6 and came with a ton.
11. Cut out the holes with a razor be careful not to over cut into the front of the panel. Then place in your gauges in for the last time and line them to your liking Then attache the rear of the gauges with the gauge bracket.

I will mention that the Non Ralley Dash frame may need some slight metal trimming, I cant quite remember. I also replaced the bottom section with toggle switches and new light indicators. I know this panel needed the old switch frame section cut out some.


I wish I had taken more pictures but for some reason I did not. The last picture has a few creases visible but I was able to flatten them out.

Also you will need to decide how you want to mount your gauge panel. I put screws from front to brackets I made that hang down.

 

[young99]

Where did you get the steering wheel ? More info on the dash setup please.

I had the steering wheel ordered as a sample from a company. I am probably going to be ordering quite a bit of them to sale. They are not very expensive but will need a momo type hub adapter. I bought one on ebay from http://www.ebay.com/itm/1968-1969-D...etc-/191655382426?hash=item2c9f8d0d9a&vxp=mtr

I am going to be testing this wheel out before I decide to buy and sell them.

 

[Daly]

Thanks, I'm thinking of using some sheet metal I have laying around or some aluminum I have. What size gauges did you use? A quick measurement of my dash didn't look like anything over 3" was going to fit, if your's are 3" or even 3 3/8", then they look bigger then I thought they would…

 

[young99]

Thanks, I'm thinking of using some sheet metal I have laying around or some aluminum I have. What size gauges did you use? A quick measurement of my dash didn't look like anything over 3" was going to fit, if your's are 3" or even 3 3/8", then they look bigger then I thought they would…

This is the exact set I bought. Minus the Tach it was bought separately. The speedo is 3 1/8" and others are 2 1/16"
http://www.autozone.com/gauges-and-...ter-designer-black-street-rod-kit/131198_0_0/

I started off using sheet metal but when I was done I did not care for the look. I also did not have the right tools to make it nice. I used tin snips which ended up warping the metal more than i would like.

 

[young99]

Not too much to update on been real busy with work and now football season.

I bought a new Hurst shift linkage set and cleaned and greased my shifter. The linkage I had just did not seem right.

I also decided to make a makeshift 4 speed box for now. It cost me about $15 to make with some leftover scraps I had.

 

[young99]

Well today kinda sucked, took the car out to see how it drove. Stopped at a rite aid to pick up a drink then got back in and no reverse..... The reverse lever on the hurst shifter broke off :angry1: Would have never thought this was even possible. Perhaps the lever was already damaged. Anyways Im ordering new shifter sooner than I thought I would.

 

[young99]

Well I took a breather from working on the car a few weeks. I started back this week I swapped out the shifter that broke with a brand new hurst shifter. It feels great when I shift.

This evening I managed to swap both motor mounts. I also found out that the ignition coil can shock you pretty damn good :confused3: Was going to adjust the distributor a little and was not watching my wrench and it touched the coil. lol my finger still hurts.