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1969 GTX engine removal

i wonder what would make that ly rod twist and break like that at that speed?i know the six pack rods are little heavier than ly rods maybe i should consider the six pack rods for my 440 build.maybe the rod was defective surley it had some problems that caused all that damage.good luck with new build.
 
if its a stock block (sounds like it) i would suggest you use more than studs to hold the main caps in place with the kind of power output your looking for. either girdle or aftermarket caps.
 
I assume by all the bolts on the mounts you mean either the three that attached it to the engine and/or the through bolt that attaches engine side to frame mount? And that the headers and starter bolts are not only removed, but those parts also. The trans. needs to also come out, don't forget it's input shaft goes through the bell,pressure plate,clutch disc, and sticks into the backside of the crank. I usually pull trans out completely ( IT"S HEAVY), so I can take the clutch parts and bell also out. Gives me a lot more room to come out even with hood off. It's a large pain putting back in, some people assembly out side car and drop back assembled. I make my buddy NED help! Still a pain. Most people at home do not have room to do it the easiest way, leave it bolted together and to K-Frame and raise vehicle, this is way you do it if you have a lift.
 
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Anyone know who make these rockers ?
 
A833 tranny question: the plastic speedometer gear is held inside the tail housing how ?
 
It has a hold-down clamp, similar to how your distributor is held in place.
 
I am rebuilding my A833 4 speed. I am amazed at how easy this is. FYI, buy the new 3-4 and 1-2 syncros they are better built and have the larger notches plus the oiling grooves. i am using mobile 1 synthetic grease for assembly. The new bearings: if you look are made in China VS the original ones which are marked USA. The rebuilt kit is about $160 bucks and including the new syncros I spent $460 bucks. I will post some pictures later.

FYI; check the snap ring to make sure it fits inside the Input Bearing Retainer; replacement snap rings can be thicker and wider and if you tightened it down before checking you will crack the IBR(CAST). I am going to buy a new steel billet.

FYI;1. insert the input bearing first; when you install the IBR ( see above) make sure the snap ring is the correct size.
2. next is the counter shaft with new bearings and thrust washers. I used a wooden dowel cut to the same length as the counter shaft with the thrust washers. this will keep everything in place. When you slide the new steel shaft in( from the rear to the front) don't forget the woodruff key.
3. The reverse can be done anytime; when you slide the shaft on, you will need to align the reverse detent and the gear all together BEFORE, you push the reverse shaft all the way in.( woodruff key don't forget it). By the way, I use a long steel rod to from the front to knock the reverse shaft out. Worked very easily. NO need to buy or make a tool.
4. Next, when you insert the tail shaft with newly rebuilt syncros and bearings. Lay the transmission case on a work bench with access hole up,
5. Move the reverse slider to the middle of the shaft
6. Slide the gears in angled toward the top of the transmission case. as soon as you get the shaft even with the input bearing shaft. STOP. Now slide the clutch gear forward just enough that it will clear the counter shaft gear.
7. Next, move the gears on the tail shaft until they are aligned or indexed to the counter shaft gears. You will know when you have it right because the gears will just drop in. I did this by myself. The books say you need 2 people, not necessary and do not stand it all on end like some say. Just take your time, it is heavy.
8. take a hammer and drive the tail shaft forward.
9. If you did not install the IBR, be CAREFUL you can drive it out of the transmission case.

THINGS YOU SHOULD DO; GREASE THE BEARINGS SO THEY WILL stay put. Take plenty of pictures, if you get frustrated stop and take a break.
 
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