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1969 GTX....The T stands for tetanus

Great job on the exhaust (well, hell, the whole car so far).

It reminds me I need to greatly improve my welding skills!

Hawk
 
I'll post a video once she is up. My driveshaft will be here in the 5th. My carburetor should be here by Saturday...had to order another as the original kept getting backordered farther and farther.

Dealing with an electrical issue involving the lights but it shouldn't keep me from breaking it in. I really need to get it re registered too!
 
Yup, the $1100 for the Accurate Exhaust system was worth every penny to me :). Looking forward to seeing it run and in Tucson ;)
 
I think I am more at ease in chaos lol...
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Working out an electrical gremlin so I pulled the harness and circuit board and went through everything. Did have to fix a few pins on the board.
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And I got my carburetor. It isn't set up yet, just resting on its home
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Wow! that engine bay is a work of art.. Saving that pic for future reference, love those valve covers and headers..
 
I hate car electric problems. Fix one issue and two more appear. Now my turn signals, heater blower and wipers don't work.

So I changed gears and hooked up the carburetor. The BRE plate needed some mods to work plus I added a pin to keep the plate from moving. Everything seems to be adjusted properly. Now I have to run the fuel line.
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Do I see a speedometer problem too :) Seems stuck at about 30.... Been there and still am there....
 
Do I see a speedometer problem too :) Seems stuck at about 30.... Been there and still am there....

And it's going to stay there because I don't have a speedo cable lol.

Update: Fixed my electrical issues....for now. We shall see how it holds up when used lol. The connections on my floor dimmer were loose and the power feed wired wire going to the ignition switch was in a spot without a spade connector.
 
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I got my aluminum driveshaft installed. Fit like a glove and thanks the Driveshaft Specialist for the quick turnaround.
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I also put in a nors light switch and buttoned up the rest of the interior wiring. I need to get some 3/8" fuel line to run the carburetor lines then wires, prime, set ignition and fire.
 
May I ask the price of the driveshaft and the HP rating they give it?
 
May I ask the price of the driveshaft and the HP rating they give it?

It was $419 plus shipping. I called them to give them my specs for the order and I never asked about H.P. ratings. I did ask about spin rating and this is good for 8000rpm. It is a 3.5" tube. I'm not running slicks or racing so I don't think I will have an issue. With your horsepower I would call and ask. Scroll down to the bottom for the Mopar section...
http://www.driveshaftspecialist.com/Aluminum html/Muscle cars.html
 
What a day. I should have known it was going to be long when the throttle cable snapped at the carb as I was priming the motor. After some minor repairs, a lot of sweating, a weeping freeze plug, many adjustments, 2 spark plug wires caught on fire, dust shield clanking from the converter bolts, and one overheat, it is running and broke in. I still need to tune it and swap in the dual springs.



The first start up lasted only 10 minutes before it started to overheat so I shut it down. Probably due to timing and lack of thermostat. I would have got video of its' start up but my phone got smashed in my pocket somehow. The Taylor plug wires that are listed for a 440 were waaaaay too long. I had the pass side 6 and 8 laying on the fender while plugged in. You can see the two red ones as the original two were burning pretty goo (I had an extinguisher handy).
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I would suggest that having the hood open and it doesn't look like you have a radiator shroud. That might be some of your overheating. Lack of thermostat also doesn't help, won't let the coolant stay in the radiator long enough to cool off.
 
Couldn't view the video, said it was private.
 
I assume your garage has GFI on the AC outlets. I cringed seeing that cheap box fan in a puddle of water. Just be careful.
 
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