1970 383 Timing Chain

[mykers]

In talking with the old man he said that changing a timing chain is like setting a broken bone. Doesn’t matter son if your at 12 and 12 when a doctor sets a broken bone he can set it at any direction as long as the bones line up like they did to begin with.

Kind of an old school analogy which is why I’m asking for clarification

 

[Bill Monk]

The cam sprocket should be at 6:00 and the crank at 12:00. If you take out the plug out of number 1 cylinder and put your finger over the hole while rotating the engine, you can feel compression. Once you feel the compression, hand turn it until the piston is at the top of the compression stroke (this is where the the piston stop comes) in or you can do it old school and just use a screw driver to determine when it is at the top of the cylinder. The crank rotates twice for every revolution of the cam, one is the compression stroke and the other is the exhaust stroke. You just need to make sure you are on the compression stroke, once the crank is right just rotate the cam until the sprocket will go on at 6:00

 

[Bill Monk]

like this

 

[mykers]

I got that. Thank you. My question is rotating the engine with everything off

 

[mykers]

Sorry rotating the engine with the old chain still on. What’s the best way to do this or is there a way? Do I have to reassemble or just use the bare crank bolt in the crankshaft and rotate clockwise (counter would lessen the bolt) until they line up...obvious way right?

 

[Bill Monk]

Sorry rotating the engine with the old chain still on. What’s the best way to do this or is there a way? Do I have to reassemble or just use the bare crank bolt in the crankshaft and rotate clockwise (counter would lessen the bolt) until they line up

correct

 

[mykers]

Sorry rotating the engine with the old chain still on. What’s the best way to do this or is there a way? Do I have to reassemble or just use the bare crank bolt in the crankshaft and rotate clockwise (counter would lessen the bolt) until they line up

Thanks for your help

 

[mykers]

Oh another question regarding the timing chain cover (stock). I noticed upon removal a metal circular spring-like retainer fell into the timing cover.

My question is does this need to be put back on? The gel-pro gasket set didn’t include one. I assume this goes around or inside the timing cover crank seal. Is this correct?

Also any tips or tricks besides soaking the chain you can give would be beneficial. I know about greasing the balancer. Anything else?

Again I can’t thank you guys enough.

 

[Daves69]

Why not just slap the old chain back on the way it was, remove the TDC stop, and then rotate the crank till the marks are at 6/12?

 

[1778ppr]

Oh another question regarding the timing chain cover (stock). I noticed upon removal a metal circular spring-like retainer fell into the timing cover.

My question is does this need to be put back on? The gel-pro gasket set didn’t include one. I assume this goes around or inside the timing cover crank seal. Is this correct?

Also any tips or tricks besides soaking the chain you can give would be beneficial. I know about greasing the balancer. Anything else?

Again I can’t thank you guys enough.

I'm pretty sure what you are describing is an oil slinger. If so, yes it should go back on the crank.

 

[mykers]

Why not just slap the old chain back on the way it was, remove the TDC stop, and then rotate the crank till the marks are at 6/12?

Old chain is still on. I’m just going to rotate the crank and line em up. Thanks

 

[mykers]

I'm pretty sure what you are describing is an oil slinger. If so, yes it should go back on the crank.

Ok sounds good. Also just to clarify I’m not talking about the metal plate

I'm pretty sure what you are describing is an oil slinger. If so, yes it should go back on the crank.

no, it’s not the oil slinger. That is more plate like. What I’m talking about is a small circular spring that’s about the same size as the inside portion of the slinger. Almost looks like a small bracelet that stretches if needed.

 

[Daves69]

Part of the seal.

 

[1778ppr]

Ok sounds good. Also just to clarify I’m not talking about the metal plate

no, it’s not the oil slinger. That is more plate like. What I’m talking about is a small circular spring that’s about the same size as the inside portion of the slinger. Almost looks like a small bracelet that stretches if needed.

OK, that sounds more like the spring collar inside the crank seal. Your new crank seal should have one inside. If not, then the seal design doesn't need one? In other words it is part of the crank seal as far as I know. I'd have to look at one again to refresh my memory.

 

[Daves69]

Example

 

[451Mopar]

As long as the crank is at 12:00 (TDC either compression/ignition or overlap) the timing gear can be at 12:00 or 6:00, doesn't matter to the timing chain. Only thing that would change is the ignition timing if the dist is already out when you rotate the engine. You can rotate the engine with the cover off, just put the damper bolt back in with a few washers between it and the crank so the threads don't hit the non-threded part of the bolt and use it to spin the engine. The large metal disc is the oil slinger, and it goes on so the small inner side is towards the crank gear, and the large side towards the timing cover.

 

[mykers]

As long as the crank is at 12:00 (TDC either compression/ignition or overlap) the timing gear can be at 12:00 or 6:00, doesn't matter to the timing chain. Only thing that would change is the ignition timing if the dist is already out when you rotate the engine. You can rotate the engine with the cover off, just put the damper bolt back in with a few washers between it and the crank so the threads don't hit the non-threded part of the bolt and use it to spin the engine. The large metal disc is the oil slinger, and it goes on so the small inner side is towards the crank gear, and the large side towards the timing cover.

Like this?

 

[miller]

Like this?

Yes.

As long as the crank is at 12:00 (TDC either compression/ignition or overlap) the timing gear can be at 12:00 or 6:00, doesn't matter to the timing chain.

Hmmm...for someone new to this, could be a little muddy. Especially working on a motor already together.
Remember, that chain links the timing of both the crank, and cam together, both timed right. Have to also toss in, depending on the new double roller chain you have, and the two matching gears, the crank gear can have up to 3 timing marks, and slots.
And, since the engine is already together, you have valve spring pressure on the cam. That means, when you pull the old chain off, it 'could' rotate a little.

I'd do one of two ways. One, is, with the old chain still on, rotate the engine until the dots are dot to dot! Crank dot up, cam dot down, in line. Then change the chain, keeping things in place.
Or, pull the chain, then using the bolts for each, the crank, and cam, turn each one into the correct dot to dot. If it's not correct, things will go bad. Just telling you like it is!

Yes, front main seal is bad, and needs to be replaced.

 

[miller]

Or, pull the chain, then using the bolts for each, the crank, and cam, turn each one into the correct dot to dot.

I take that one back...don't do that! Could kiss a valve to a piston.

And, the old man is right.

 

[mykers]

I take that one back...don't do that! Could kiss a valve to a piston.

And, the old man is right.

Got it. Thank you