1970 Road Runner Value

[kdtjb]

Guess this is one way to get around the NO COMMENTING rule on for sale items. Just open another thread.

 

[ma mopar nutz]

Well I called about the 70 RR for $10,000. Nice guy.

He said it'll need floor pans, trunk pan and rear frame rails.
It runs and drives (but not exceptionally well). He said the car is 99% complete, but pretty much everything needs to be redone (interior is there, but not great).

I'm guessing he'd take $9-8,500.

Seems too expensive but what do I know. He did say that for a true RR, 99% complete, you probably aren't going to find something for $5-6k, that isn't just a big bucket of parts.

Bull crap I just bought a 68' GTX last fall that needs no floor work just quarters and rear window patches for 1500.00 bucks ! Granted she was stripped of all crome and interior but that all can be bought ! Keep looking don't jump the gun !

 

[greg86z28]

Guess this is one way to get around the NO COMMENTING rule on for sale items. Just open another thread.

I didn't realize that was a rule. Sorry.

 

[YY1]

Needing frame rails just dropped that value quite a bit.

Even for a factory N96 car.

 

[greg86z28]

Thanks for all the input guys. Maybe we can close this thread down. I'm sure I'll have more questions the next time something pops up on CL, however I think I have a really good idea on what I should be looking for. Now it's just a matter of waiting until the right thing comes up and pulling the trigger.

 

[Basket case]

welcome to the site.
take your time, plenty of cars for sale out there. I paid $9k for mine 7 years ago. original 383 and 4 speed, new interior, been driving it since I got it. It had a crappy repaint in the wrong color. It needed quarter skins, and a couple of small patches around the back glass.
plenty of deals to be had, but you may have to travel some to get it.

 

[Car Nut]

Offer him $6,000 and don't go over $6,500.

Good luck.

 

[YY1]

Look at craigslist at least 2 times a week- noting if the price drops or the listing is gone quickly, and check and "watch" ebay listings for a couple of the models that fit your criteria.

Pretty soon you'll get a feel for the price range and the effect condition plays.

 

[HawkRod]

Thanks for all the input guys. Maybe we can close this thread down. I'm sure I'll have more questions the next time something pops up on CL, however I think I have a really good idea on what I should be looking for. Now it's just a matter of waiting until the right thing comes up and pulling the trigger.

A few suggested rules:
1) Buy the most complete car you can. The small parts will KILL you. They are expensive and/or hard to find. Everyone always thinks of engine and tranny, maybe a dash and even seats, but all the other crap will bleed you dry. BUY A COMPLETE CAR!!!

2) Whatever rust you think a car has, it will have more when you tear in to it. It is just the way that it is. These cars are over 40 years old, and never designed to last barely 10. Be prepared to replace metal. The good news is, for many cars like a Road Runner, most all sheet metal is available. But again, it will cost you. I am restoring a CA car with very little rust and have $3000 in AMD sheet metal on the car. Now I am going for a top notch restoration, but you get the idea.

3) Cars are rated on a scale, most typically a scale of 1-6, with 1 being perfect and 6 being basket case. A rule of thumb is that it costs twice to move a car up one rating scale than to buy it already in that condition. This means you should buy the nicest condition car you can afford. Sweat equity will drive down the price to improve the cars condition, so if you plan to do most of the work yourself and have limited funds, that may be a good reason to buy a car in worse condition.

Hope this helps...

Hawk

 

[YY1]

...and don't confuse "cost" with "value".

Just because someone has already spent 10 grand on it doesn't mean it's worth 10 grand.

 

[Dragon Slayer]

I was in your shoes, and spent about 2 years looking and learning. Watch Ebay, review old auctions, and do research. Your labor maybe cheap, but machine shop, body work, paint, and parts can wreck a budget. As stated earlier parts can kill you. Air grabber switch $375, radiator $600, trim and molding pieces $40 and up. If it isn't numbers matching you will most likely never recover what you spend. So do this because you want to build it. Reading post here, some guys have cars that have been in the restoration mode for a decade. Otherwise, buy a complete car that you can refine as you go. G

 

[YY1]

If you have 10G to spend, you CAN get a nice driver for that, although it probably won't be a numbers matching 70 N96 4 speed RR with good quarters.
A running, driving, REAL RM code 68-70 RR NOT needing frame rails is certainly not out of the question in that range, though.

The 8-12K market is the best moving market right now.