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1973 Charger restoration

Hey, I have a stupid question for y'all. How do I remove the torsion bars from the k frame so I can remove them? From what I understand, I need to jack the front of the car in the air, support the frame rails with jackstands (behind the k frame) disconnect the torsion bars, unbolt the k frame and slowly lower it. Is this correct? I have also heard that on 73-4 cars, the whole torsion bar crossmember can be unbolted and dropped @ the same time as the k frame. Maybe if that's true, it'll be faster to undo it all... Thanks. - David.
 
That's a good looking solid car you have there. :thumbsup:
 
I'm not certain on your year, but in general you get the suspension up and hanging. Loosen the torsion bar tension bolt underneath and remove the rubber bumper on the a arm to give full slack. Some slip right out, others need to be pursuaded with a non marring tool on the bar itself.
 
You can unbolt everything as you stated witch is a pain in the ***. Or you can back off the torsion bar adjusters the bolt under the lower control arm in the middle why the cars in the air then drop the K frame and slide forward or if you get lucky there's little clips you take out of the backup could try to walk the bars out the back and leave everything in place there's tons of ways but be careful if you don't back the bolt off they will be sprung msg me if you need further help
 
You can unbolt everything as you stated witch is a pain in the ***. Or you can back off the torsion bar adjusters the bolt under the lower control arm in the middle why the cars in the air then drop the K frame and slide forward or if you get lucky there's little clips you take out of the backup could try to walk the bars out the back and leave everything in place there's tons of ways but be careful if you don't back the bolt off they will be sprung msg me if you need further help
Ok. That doesn't sound too difficult. So, after I get the front of the car supported in the air, I'll back of the adjusting bolts all the way, unbolt the k frame, and slide it forward a little bit. Correct?
 
Yup it might take some beating but it will come !if you msg me I'll give you my number and if you get stuck you can call me
 
Well... I found a bad spot in the floor pan. I was wrong, at least partially. Just a little area about 9" by "10 needs a patch panel. Not too hard to do, at least. I also removed the back seats I had in there (came from a 71 Charger) and stripped the seat covers off. Not pictured, but I also removed the foam. I also finished stripping the interior, minus the dash.

And, like the idiot I am, I forgot to roll the Charger back into the shop before yanking the steering column. Oops!

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Hey @Bb70charger500 , is the torsion bar cross member the same between a 4 speed car and an auto car? While test fitting the 4 speed hump, it seems I have no places to spot weld the panel to the crossmember, minus the edges. Thanks. - David.
 
Tonight I pulled the dash out, and it wasn't near as hard as I though it would be. I just need to keep better track of all the bolts, nuts, and screws I remove. Pictures hopefully coming tomorrow if I find time (gotta go back to work after the weekend).

If anybody has plastic sail panels (with the quarter window seal built-in), please PM me. I need some.

I'm also looking for front fenders in the wyoming area. I would travel pretty dang far just to get some. Maybe in the southern montana area? Salt lake area?

Thanks. - David
 
I know I p.m.ed you the answer but figured we need to post it for others .
The torsion bar cross member is the same for autos and sticks
 
Oh yeah by the way the cars looking good that rust is easier taken care of . You sure you don't want to sell me that car ?
 
Oh yeah by the way the cars looking good that rust is easier taken care of . You sure you don't want to sell me that car ?
NO. Haha jokes aside, it does have cancer is some areas. Most of the bodywork will be taking care of dents, etc.
 
Recently I pulled the dash, along with the gas pedal, brake pedal, and park brake assemblies.

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Looking good get your self a list if needed parts I'm getting that parts car in the next hour or two
 
Parts I'm looking for: (if any of you have these you'd sell, PLEASE PM me.)

- 73-74 charger hardtop molded plastic sail panels
- 73-74 charger chrome drip rail moldings
- 73-74 charger rear tail light buckets (both sides)
- 71-72 rear bumper brackets
- 71-74 machine gun exhaust tips (nos if possible)
- 73-74 Rallye gauge cluster and harness.... will pay extra for a cluster w/ 150 mph speedo & factory tach
- Big block 833 bellhousing
- 73-74 clutch pedal assembly
- park brake release handle stick (I let one of my taller friends drive the car whilst it was running, and they accidentally bent it getting into the car.)
- 73-74 Charger fenders, would likely need them shipped, but I'd pay for the part, shipping, and your labor to package the part for shipping.

Thanks all, - David.
 
I've got a workable set of fenders.

How bad are yours?

They're kinda hard to find.

I got a sherman/goodmark driver's side quarter panel patch- upper body line all the way down, and door jamb to corner weld.

Lotsa high weight/large size shipping and packing.....
 
The parts car is a 73 s.e. I have some of the needed parts
 
I've got a workable set of fenders.

How bad are yours?

They're kinda hard to find.

I got a sherman/goodmark driver's side quarter panel patch- upper body line all the way down, and door jamb to corner weld.

Lotsa high weight/large size shipping and packing.....
Are the fenders straight and mostly rust free?
 
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