1973 Satellite Questions.

[chargervert]

Be aware that a tremic/TKO transmission requires MAJOR work to the floorboads and crossmember.

There is a "drop in" 5 speed version of the "833" made by Passon performance but the jury is still out on availability and quality.
Even a "stock" 833 4 speed install will require some work on the floor pan, a sheet metal "hump" and a Z bar pivot bracket welded to the frame horn.

"Factory" overdrive 833's are also available and relatively cheap but the gears do not work well with all rear axle gears.
Not really a "granny" 1st, but can become one real easy with low differential gears.

Speaking of the axle, a 318 non RR car likely has an 8 1/4- check and see using the visual reference pic available on FBBO.
My car has a 2.76 8 1/4 axle. Ratios like 2.94, 3.21, and 3.55 are available and that axle is strong enough for a 5.9.
They came behind 2 barrel 400's but 4 barrel 400 cars and 440 cars got 8 3/4 axles. I believe the 318 RR also got an 8 3/4.
An 3/4 is "easier" to swap gears into but a "correct" 8 3/4 is not super easy to find for a 71-74 body.
An E body 8 3/4 is much easier to find and will work.
However, a non- ISO axle swap will require new or moded shock/mount plates and can affect the sway bar mount as well.
This could also potentially tighten up the handling, though by eliminating the rear ISO system.

Tremics are a bolt in swap on 70 to 74 E body cars,and 71 to 74 B body cars. It is the 66 to 70 B body cars that require floor pan modifications. Of course if you are swapping from an automatic transmission to a manual transmission you will need to cut in the floor hump no matter what manual transmission you are putting in the car. The factory overdrive 833 transmission will not survive behind any engine with over 400 hp.

 

[YY1]

I've never heard that before.

Have you done it?

Are there pics?

I know the "TKX" is supposed to be marginally thinner than the original TKO, but still a lot of cutting and mods and rebuilding the cross member from what I've read and seen pics of.

 

[chargervert]

I've never heard that before.

Have you done it?

Are there pics?

I know the "TKX" is supposed to be marginally thinner than the original TKO, but still a lot of cutting and mods and rebuilding the cross member from what I've read and seen pics of.

My friends Gary and Pam have put Tremic 5 speed transmissions in six 71 to 74 B body cars with no issues, and my other friend Dave has done two Challengers also. They are bolt in,with no floor pan modification other than putting in the floor hump as you would with any manual transmission on a car that came from the factory with an automatic transmission. The kit provides the transmission mount the bolts in directly to the factory crossmember.

 

[Tajmartin]

A big block will also change the front/rear weight distribution.

Just curious if it is a "RM21G" 318 Road Runner. If it is it should already have a thick front sway bar and also a rear bar.

My 73 had a "wandering" steering issue that I fixed by setting the toe properly. It seers GREAT now, without any slop. Factory stock box.

It does have some pretty bad body roll that is likely from:

A- not coming from the factory with any sway bar (it's an "RL" low price class car) and having an aftermarket bar cobbled in.
B- an aftermarket rear bar that I took out because the bushings were missing and the mounts were bent.
C- squishy factory rubber ISO bushings between the K frame and frame horns. Both solid aluminum and "hard" poly are available.

It shows Rh23G if that helps my guess is it just a base model satellite but I haven't looked at a vin decoder. I definitely need to get under the car and check everything out I wonder if there is a refresh kit so I can just make sure its all fresh.

 

[YY1]

OK Satellite Sebring 318-2 single exhaust from the factory.

 

[KiwiKid72]

Man, that's a nice looking car.

If it was mine I'd leave it as is and just enjoy driving it.

If I truly felt the need and had the cash to do something to it, I'd upgrade suspension, brakes, and driveline and put a Hellcat engine and transmission (or 833 4-speed with pistol grip) in there, peel off the 340 stickers replacing them with HEMI.

I just don't see the point changing an old engine for another old engine, only to gain 100 hp. Might as well go all out, and roll out of the shed with 800+ hp IMHO.

 

[Tajmartin]

It looks like dad gave you a good starting point, because the most expensive and time consuming part of a build is body and paint, and that is already done. Now all you have to do is make a good car into a great car. As mentioned above, I would stick with a small block in that car, 360/408 stroker with aluminum heads and intake manifold would make plenty of power and less weight than a big block conversion. A big block swap on a 71/72 B body is a simple swap, however 73/74 B body cars had a different K frame assembly for small block cars than the big block cars used and the passengers side inner fender was different too on small block cars versus big block cars as well. A fuel injection setup like a Holley Sniper kit would greatly improve starting and drivability too. You can either upgrade your stock steering box and sway bar if budget is a problem, or go with an aftermarket k frame with rack and pinion steering if you have the funds to do so. A pair of frame connectors would help stiffen up the body too. A manual 5 speed Tremic transmission, it would make highway driving a pleasure, four wheel disc brakes would make stopping the big car safely happen, and an 8 3/4 rear axle with a 3.55 sure grip and a rear sway bar would finish up the driveline and make for a great running and driving Plymouth.

Seems like the go to is the 360 then since the magnums seem pretty available, for the 8 3/4 rear isn't that something that would require a lot of cutting and welding the new one on, I recall reading that they are relativly hard to get a hold of with the axles and that they are like an inch and a half shorter although that's not really an issue with wider tires right.

 

[Tajmartin]

OK Satellite Sebring 318-2 single exhaust from the factory.

The more you know! Thanks for the assist here!

 

[Tajmartin]

Man, that's a nice looking car.

If it was mine I'd leave it as is and just enjoy driving it.

If I truly felt the need and had the cash to do something to it, I'd upgrade suspension, brakes, and driveline and put a Hellcat engine and transmission in there, peel off the 340 stickers replacing them with HEMI.

I just don't see the point changing an old engine for another old engine, only to gain 100 hp. Might as well go all out, and roll out of the shed with 800+ hp IMHO.

TBH that would be great but the 318 as it sits is absolutely gutless, if budget was no option I would send it trust me lol

 

[YY1]

The 1973 318-2 with single exhaust was rated 150 HP from the factory.

The RR 318, still a 2 barrel but with dual 2 1/2" exhaust was rated 170.

The 60,000 mile 318-2 with added duals in my 3700 pound car with 2.76 gears will spin the tire from a standing start for about 30 feet

The 5.9 in my 4200 pound 2000 Dakota with 3.92 gears and limited slip will fry the 255 width tires until I take my foot off the pedal.

The 5.9 was rated 245 HP from the factory with large single exhaust and a cat. Mine has cat back duals and a K&N air filter.

 

[Tajmartin]

Be aware that a tremic/TKO transmission requires MAJOR work to the floorboads and crossmember.

There is a "drop in" 5 speed version of the "833" made by Passon performance but the jury is still out on availability and quality.
Even a "stock" 833 4 speed install will require some work on the floor pan, a sheet metal "hump" and a Z bar pivot bracket welded to the frame horn.

"Factory" overdrive 833's are also available and relatively cheap but the gears do not work well with all rear axle gears.
Not really a "granny" 1st, but can become one real easy with low differential gears.

Speaking of the axle, a 318 non RR car likely has an 8 1/4- check and see using the visual reference pic available on FBBO.
My car has a 2.76 8 1/4 axle. Ratios like 2.94, 3.21, and 3.55 are available and that axle is strong enough for a 5.9.
They came behind 2 barrel 400's but 4 barrel 400 cars and 440 cars got 8 3/4 axles. I believe the 318 RR also got an 8 3/4.
An 3/4 is "easier" to swap gears into but a "correct" 8 3/4 is not super easy to find for a 71-74 body.
An E body 8 3/4 is much easier to find and will work.
However, a non- ISO axle swap will require new or moded shock/mount plates and can affect the sway bar mount as well.
This could also potentially tighten up the handling, though by eliminating the rear ISO system.

So my best bet is an E body 8 3/4 if I am looking for something more robust, even if I went with the below recommended 408 stroked crate engine

 

[Tajmartin]

I'll chime in as well.

I fully agree that you should stick with a small block. As already mentioned, changing to a big block means lots of things have to be different, including lots of brackets that bolt to the engine.

A drop in 360 or better yet, stroked 408 crate engine is the way to go. Why? It is physically identical to your 318 engine that is currently in the car. You can remove the 318 and drop in the crate engine without changing anything. So it is about as easy as you can get and it won't become a frustrating science project where you will be trying to figure out how stuff fits, and then have to source (and buy) those parts.

Having said the above, putting in a stout 408 stroker motor will likely stress the rest of your driveline. But, if you drive it carefully, they will survive for some time and you can upgrade those little by little.

I have a 73 Road Runner with a 340. I stroked it to 416 cubic inches. In my case, I did it to drive across country and I have low compression so it runs on 87 octane fuel. Even so, it is still a monster and accelerates way harder than my 70 383 Road Runner.

As has also been said above, these cars can be made to handle quite well with a Firm Feel steering box (I like Stage II). However, it also requires all the suspension parts be in top condition, and you need the appropriate sway bars too.

You are asking all the right questions - best of luck with your (very good looking) project!

Here is my beater with the 416 small block...
View attachment 1463718

Thank you for the input! PS doesn't look like a beater lol. The 408 seems like an option considering its about 8300 it does limit my ability to polish up the drive line although maybe I would be better getting the drive line sorted out before moving to the 360 or 408 since the 318 isnt dead in the water its just a cruiser.

 

[Tajmartin]

The 1973 318-2 with single exhaust was rated 150 HP from the factory.

The RR 318, still a 2 barrel but with dual 2 1/2" exhaust was rated 170.

The 60,000 mile 318-2 with added duals in my 3700 pound car with 2.76 gears will spin the tire from a standing start for about 30 feet

The 5.9 in my 4200 pound 2000 Dakota with 3.92 gears and limited slip with fry the 255 width tires until I take my foot off the pedal.

The 5.9 was rated 245 HP from the factory with large single exhaust and a cat. Mine has cat back duals and a K&N air filter.

I am liking the sound of that Dakota lol. The extra 100 hp really seems like an easy yes.

 

[Thrashingcows]

Maybe some pics of the motor so we can see what has been done to it already...intake, carb, ignition, headers vs manifolds..etc. But you can wake up a little 318 easy enough with a properly sourced cam, intake and carb that are designed to work together, and OEM mopar electronic ignition and dual exhaust through manifolds or headers. The transmission is probably a 904 but they are pretty reliable transmissions and might just need a service and the bands tightened and re-adjusted.

The rear axle is most likely an 8.25" unit and might be spinning some crazy highway gears like 2.45's or 2.76's...which with an under powered 318 will be a dog in and around town.
If you can find a 8.25" with a set of 3.21's that would be a way better gear set for your current set up and would increase your fun factor behind the wheel with just that one upgrade, you don't have to swap the entire axle just have the gear set and have it swapped into your axle.

These few things would get you a car that moves along nicely and should have a enough power to be fun and you can enjoy cruising in the car, and in the mean time you can source out a factory 8.75" B-body rear, 727 and what direction motor wise you wish to go and gather all the parts and pieces to do the swap in one shot.

 

[Tajmartin]

Maybe some pics of the motor so we can see what has been done to it already...intake, carb, ignition, headers vs manifolds..etc. But you can wake up a little 318 easy enough with a properly sourced cam, intake and carb that are designed to work together, and OEM mopar electronic ignition and dual exhaust through manifolds or headers. The transmission is probably a 904 but they are pretty reliable transmissions and might just need a service and the bands tightened and re-adjusted.

The rear axle is most likely an 8.25" unit and might be spinning some crazy highway gears like 2.45's or 2.76's...which with an under powered 318 will be a dog in and around town.
If you can find a 8.25" with a set of 3.21's that would be a way better gear set for your current set up and would increase your fun factor behind the wheel with just that one upgrade, you don't have to swap the entire axle just have the gear set and have it swapped into your axle.

These few things would get you a car that moves along nicely and should have a enough power to be fun and you can enjoy cruising in the car, and in the mean time you can source out a factory 8.75" B-body rear, 727 and what direction motor wise you wish to go and gather all the parts and pieces to do the swap in one shot.

Here are some that I have, looks like he had done rear struts at some point, I don't have a picure but I know the left side headers are pinched a little after my dad found a rather large speed bump lol

 

[Tajmartin]

Does this forum have an exploded version of the car so I can easily locate replacement parts? I realized that the "Rag Joint" is pretty wrecked and I am assuming that might contribute to the play in the steering.

 

[YY1]

I replaced that one year only and difficult to find, expensive steering joint with.....a $4 hockey puck.

Been fine for going on 10 years.

 

[chargervert]

Seems like the go to is the 360 then since the magnums seem pretty available, for the 8 3/4 rear isn't that something that would require a lot of cutting and welding the new one on, I recall reading that they are relativly hard to get a hold of with the axles and that they are like an inch and a half shorter although that's not really an issue with wider tires right.

The correct 71 to 74 B body 8 3/4 axle assembly is a direct bolt in for your car. Theu can be found fairly easily. I just sold one,housing and axles for $200.

 

[Ron_M]

IIRC 71/72 axle will require a little reworking to be bolt in to the iso set-up if he's keeping that. Ideal set-up is get rid of the iso (rubber) setup in the rear suspension. IF this car has the factory sway bar, that will need some adjustment too. On my RR/GTX, I used Firm Feel components including sway bar to rectify. Mucho better.

FWIW I tried the poly bushings from PST when I still ran the iso set-up but wasn't happy with it, so I went all solid during a full rebuild.

 

[Ron_M]

In my experience, the 71-74 8 3/4 b body rear housings are more common than e body.

Seek out 4 door parts cars. Years ago, I scrapped a 72 318 Coronet that had one.