00Joe
Active Member
No the instructions that came with it were, sort of lacking on details
1974 Charger Project
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ckessel
Well-Known Member
SHOCKING! You are going to need a telescoping shaft unit to go between. This will help take the place of your stock coupler. The shaft assy/oe coupler allows for unibody flex otherwise you will get binding if you mount straight to it with a one piece shaft. They may be easier to source from Borgeson so I'll give you those numbers. 450024 is the 24" and 450036 is the 36" shaft units. They can be cut down so see how much gap you have between the column and the box. On the column end, it's most likely the 1" double d end so 015252 will be the unit there, plain steel. What is the shaft diameter on the box?
00Joe
Active Member
Okay, well first let me thank you for teaching me the words master spline, because I was having a hell of a time describing this to Google. I'm not at home right now but if I remember correctly, and if I'm thinking of the right thing lol, it's 11/16. But I can always double check in the morning.
ckessel
Well-Known Member
Ok. Let me know. On the shaft assy, most likely both pieces will need to be trimmed down. You'll want to try for 3-4" of travel for the solid part in and out of the tube. You don't want it to bottom out or pull out if too short/long. You want it short enough so when you collapse it to put on the box you have like 2" slack and about the same amount after the joint is in place. You'll need to have either one long enough to get through the joint hole but not protrude past the hole otherwise it could bind when rotating the shaft/joint. The cuts will need to get dressed down with a file etc to remove burrs. Once you have the length down and have the set screws snugged down on the joint, pull one screw at a time and run a 1/4"? drill through the hole and give the shafts dimples. This will make a seat for the screw to set in to help lock it all together and the shafts can't slip out. On each end of the joint, there are two set screws so two dimples per. The joint that goes to the box may be good to go with the set screws if when it's on, the holes line up with the existing groove on the boxes input shaft. You may be able to fudge the shaft protrusion a little there, if it sticks out a touch in the joint, for the screws to set. Gets you out of putting dimples there. When everything is good to go, pull it all off, spray the screw holes and set screws with brake clean to remove oils etc. Lube up both shafts with a light film of antisieze so they can slide easier and stay lubed. Also get the boot on and ready to put in place when shafts/joints are on. Boot goes on where the two shafts meet. Split the difference in the length of it and cinch with ties. On the screws, put red loctite on them, tighten the screw down then do the jamb nuts. You can paint the exposed shafts/joints if you want, just don't paint where the two slide on each other. The joints are good for up to 30* angle. More than that and you need a double joint which is a whole different ballgame.
00Joe
Active Member
Ok thanks for all the info, I measured the shaft diameter as best I could and just snapped a picture with the measurements, figure that's probably the most useful way to do it.
ckessel
Well-Known Member
On the other joint, the closest one I see is 014940. But it's a 13/16", not 15. Does have 36 splines though. Did you use calipers to measure?
00Joe
Active Member
Nevermind my dumbass decided to do math before having coffee, I was measuring circumference because my brain doesn't work in the morning lol. I don't have calipers to measure with, but I took a measurement off the coupler and that is 11/16 in diameter, I'll pick up some calipers to get an accurate measurement, because I know me eyeballing it with a tape measure is probably not the right way to do it.
ckessel
Well-Known Member
I went down to the garage and grabbed the 2023 FR catalog I got from the SEMA show. The picture I show says it has a collapsible shaft. Does yours look like this? If so, you can skip the telescoping one from Borgeson. Online they show coupler shaft kits but they are hard to figure out. You may want to contact them to see which one to use as the go between for what you have going on.
00Joe
Active Member
Yeah mine came with that collapsible slip shaft, and of course it wasn't mentioned in the install instructions at all
ckessel
Well-Known Member
Ok. That shaft will take care of any body movement so there is no bind in the hookup when operating. Don't want it to bind or worse, come out.
00Joe
Active Member
Working on things as time and mostly money allows, figured I would share some updates. Got the steering column sorted and installed, most of the wiring done, rebuilt a carburetor for the first time in my life, built a crappy looking but effective stand for the car itself so I could get under it, and currently in the process of rebuilding the transmission, another first time in my life moment. Waiting on a replacement rear drum because this one had a crack, honestly amazed with how well the clutches held up over the years, only two were in real bad shape.
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