Mark Anderson
Member
1978 Dodge B200 4x4 - No spark
360 - Thermoquad - 5 pin ECU - dual ballast
I bought this van several days ago. It was had to start but could get it running with starter fluid at first. After warm it would start right away. I ordered but have not yet received a carburetor rebuild kit. The entire top of the engine and the wire harnesses were covered in grease so I cleaned the engine. Since cleaning I have no start. This was days ago so everything has dried and been wiped free of grease. The battery was 10yrs old so I replaced it with an Interstate MTP-34. There were several Items plugged into the + side of the coil that have been removed for now. One was a suppressor (radio noise?) and the other looks like a single ballast that was spliced into the + coil wire and runs to some kind of sensor? near the carburetor. I have a picture if needed.
Existing conditions are there is no spark at coil secondary wire.
Battery 12.9 v
Ballast resistor 1.6ohm and 6.8 ohm (I have a new one to try it reads 1.2 and 5.1)
The coil has 6.2v at run and 9v at start. (I did install a new accel Super Stock 8140C and still have the original)
I was able to get spark from the coil by unplugging the ECU and checking coil secondary 1/4" from ground while grounding negative side of coil so I got a new ECU. It turned out I got the wrong ECU (4 pin) and it did not fix the problem as I assume the ballast resistor circuit would be removed. I still have this 4 pin ECU and I also bought a new 5 pin along with the new dual ballast, and pickup, cap, and rotor.
Prior to removing the "extras" on the coil plus side and with the old coil I had 9v at the coil in run but did not check cranking.
I could just throw the parts I have at it but am concerned about wrecking the new parts.
I am not a mechanic and new to Mopar so it has been challenging to even get the info I need to run tests.
My question is what are my best step by step tests to run and how can I prevent damage to new parts?
360 - Thermoquad - 5 pin ECU - dual ballast
I bought this van several days ago. It was had to start but could get it running with starter fluid at first. After warm it would start right away. I ordered but have not yet received a carburetor rebuild kit. The entire top of the engine and the wire harnesses were covered in grease so I cleaned the engine. Since cleaning I have no start. This was days ago so everything has dried and been wiped free of grease. The battery was 10yrs old so I replaced it with an Interstate MTP-34. There were several Items plugged into the + side of the coil that have been removed for now. One was a suppressor (radio noise?) and the other looks like a single ballast that was spliced into the + coil wire and runs to some kind of sensor? near the carburetor. I have a picture if needed.
Existing conditions are there is no spark at coil secondary wire.
Battery 12.9 v
Ballast resistor 1.6ohm and 6.8 ohm (I have a new one to try it reads 1.2 and 5.1)
The coil has 6.2v at run and 9v at start. (I did install a new accel Super Stock 8140C and still have the original)
I was able to get spark from the coil by unplugging the ECU and checking coil secondary 1/4" from ground while grounding negative side of coil so I got a new ECU. It turned out I got the wrong ECU (4 pin) and it did not fix the problem as I assume the ballast resistor circuit would be removed. I still have this 4 pin ECU and I also bought a new 5 pin along with the new dual ballast, and pickup, cap, and rotor.
Prior to removing the "extras" on the coil plus side and with the old coil I had 9v at the coil in run but did not check cranking.
I could just throw the parts I have at it but am concerned about wrecking the new parts.
I am not a mechanic and new to Mopar so it has been challenging to even get the info I need to run tests.
My question is what are my best step by step tests to run and how can I prevent damage to new parts?
