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1st time to track

bandit

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I took it up to the track for the first time yesterday. My first time ever racing. That was a rush but man I suck. Best time was 14.597 at 93.37mph. Was really hoping to break 100. I know my shifting was all screwed up(too early) and suspect my timing was off. I put some racing gas in her before I went up there and should have used the extra octane to advanced the timing. I was overheating while idling and waiting to go. I run about 94-96 octane for local driving and have the timing retarded to avoid ping. It prefers higher though(too expensive to run all the time). Never noticed an overheating issue driving around town but I had to wait in line a bit before it was my time to go. It evidently does not like idling for long times with that street timing.

Street tires were also an issue. Burned out a few times and like most of you probably already know, spinning street tires ahead of time did not help. I forgot to take some air out of the tires like suggested on another thread.

So this is my takeaway: Get drag radials, advance timing and run pure racing(so no ping), push my rpm's higher for shift points.

383, 4 speed, 410 gears.
 
Try not letting it idle in the lane. Look around. You will see guys pushing their cars. There is a reason for that
 
My takeaway....You had a "hell of a time"...And the next time it will be even better.....
 
Welcome to the drug of racing lol. Just think it can only get better
 
welcome to the dark-side,
it's an incurable ailment...

what kind of weather ??,
what temps ??,
what altitude were you running at ??,

all the above, can/will effect ET's & MPH....
a little track tuning, jetting for altitude & timing also,
never hurts either, drag radials will/should help some too...

as to your other post,
what was the RPM's 1-2 & the 2-3 & the 3-4 shift {if you even did a 3-4 shift},
another-words what RPM's did you shift at ??,
what was the RPM's thru the traps/finish-line ??,
what was your launch RPM's ??,
what kind/size of carburetor does it have ??,
did you uncap headers & not fatten up the jetting ??
what was your 60ft time, 330ft & 660ft times ?? {just curious mainly}
what was the timing set at ??,
was it set up for "total" timing like 34*-36* @ 3000rpm ??
or just initial timing at like 10*-12* @ idle...
most aftermarket camshafts usually will require higher initial ignition timing #'s,
like 15*-18* or more even,
the cam might be installed, too far advances too, could cause overheating or
aiding to &/or causing the pinging/detonation issues...
not knowing what's in it or how it's set up, doesn't really help either...

does it have adjustable rockers ??, if so what ratio ??
is it a hydraulic flat tappet cam or solid lifter or a hydr. roller ??,
there's tricks you can play with rockers, to aid/help it in different parts of the track, looser lash or preload the more bottom end grunt, the tighter less lash or preload, the more top end/trap power etc....

you maybe able to disconnect the vacuum advance too
& bump up the timing a little for race day, especially with good fuel...

IMHFO you had fun that's what counts

good luck in the future

for a 383 4 speed rowing thru the gears & nearly stock,
on street tires, I assume with full interior & spare in the trunk, extra weight etc.
{?? not knowing what's in it or what RPM's you ran etc.}
in a big 4000+# car, that's not all that bad, could easily be improved upon too...
 
You're right on the street tires. You'll never get out of the 14's with those on. Glad you enjoyed tHe experience. It's been a long time for me and looking forward to see what I'll do. I take note of your experience and will incorporate into when I go.
 
Thats not bad at all. What kind of car is it with the 383 and 4.10's ? Ron
 
nice...my foot used to shake when sitting at the line....I had my car down to 13.5s on bf goodrich raidal T/A tires...When I went to slicks it jumped to 12.6....best I ever got was 12.5s. have fun it only gets better!!
 
Hey I sucked the first time I went too! Lol

You have to start somewhere. The first year that I started racing I learned a hell of a lot. It's a lot of trial and error. Met a bunch of good people who would help you out in a heartbeat and made some new friends too. That's what racing is all about and it keeps getting better! Have fun bandit!
 
Thanks! I have been non stop looking things up since I got back.

It is a 1970 Charger. I would say I averaged the shifts around 4000 but wasn't looking down at the tach too much. I'd say launches were around 4000-4500 but who knows. I was looking at the lights and just reving up.

Some other info:
-Carb is 750 Holley
-Not sure on cam
-I did not do anything with rockers.
-Did nothing with jetting and left regular exhaust on there.
-Timing is unsure. Marks do not line up so have to do manually by ear. Basically back it off until no ping.
-No vacuum advance
-I had head off before.(PO'ed I did not measure bore and stroke then) Pistons were dome topped so guessing I am pushing around 11.5-12:1 compression. It likes the higher octane
-not sure how much it matters but have a hood scoop, with intake that sticks air cleaner up into scoop.

A couple owners back the car was fixed up for racing but from what I can tell that was back in the 70's. It still had the cracked up made in the 70's tires on it when I bought it. Things I know he changed: 4 speed was added, Dana 60 added, heavy duty leaf springs in back, almost anything bolted down was taken out for weight(heater, wiper motor, power steering, power brakes, ac). Front brakes were changed to 69 bendix disc brakes. Battery was in trunk when I got it but I relocated it to back to the engine bay. Had electronic fuel pump but I hooked up manual one again b/c all the whining noise coming out of elect pump. Car also had an emergency shut off switch mounted in back under bumper that I took out. Came with 3.5 inch rimmed front tires that a changed out so I could drive on road.

I know this thing has more to give. I just need to tap into it.
 
wind that thing up to 5k-at-least
{5500-6k easily if you have decent valve springs & good rod bolts},
it should be plenty safe, 4k is nothing in drag racing terms...

rev it with a load on it, in gear on a side street or freeway on ramp, where ever,
tell it just starts to fall off, quits pulling, actually "look at the tach" see what RPM it's at...

you should be shifting just a few 100 rpm's below that point

you really need to pull a valve cover & see what's in there @ a minimum
pull the intake & valley pan look it's not that difficult or expensive...

you can always get a dial indicator & measure how much camshaft lift it has,
multiply that by your rocker ratio, that will give you Gross Valve lift,
you can also do a basic compression test, it will tell you if you have really high compression...

I'd suggest you fix the timing issue, by ear is to get it fired, not for at the track use...

What main jets are in it {Holley 750 DP or Vacuum Secondary ??},
what type of fuel pump,
what size fuel lines
& what size pick-up ??

I could go on & on...

there's so much you should really know, if your going to be racing it,
so you know, your actual limitations...

have fun
 
Was that car from the north of Detroit area??? a guy named Brain??? sure looks and sounds like his old car....
 
Holley is a vacuum secondary. I want to say the jets are 6.0. I rebuilt it a year ago but can't remember. Factory spec fuel pump and lines. Nothing special.

I have had valley pan off several times but never thought to measure cam like that. How do you get "rocker ratio". Will this tell me what type of cam it is as far as aggressiveness? I have worked on cars most my life doing general fix up and maintenance but am a bit new to engine internals and specs. (camshafts, crankshafts, piston types, etc...)
 
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Get some sticky tires. 38 degrees total timing. Good enough fuel to keep it out of detonation. Don't lift the throttle once you're underway. Pull on the lever hard while accelerating. It won't move until you tap the clutch. Practice this on the street at low RPM to learn (shift at 3000). It'll be in the 13's next time out.
Doug
 
Get some sticky tires. 38 degrees total timing. Good enough fuel to keep it out of detonation. Don't lift the throttle once you're underway. Pull on the lever hard while accelerating. It won't move until you tap the clutch. Practice this on the street at low RPM to learn (shift at 3000). It'll be in the 13's next time out.
Doug

Above is good advice, especially the power shifting. Add a rev limiter. You'll be glad you did the first time you miss third. Ask me how I know...

I bent 2 exhaust valves when I missed 3rd - I saw the tach hit 7500rpm out the corner of my eye, this with cast pistons and stock rods. I glanced at the oil pressure - saw it was 60 psi, and I stayed it it after getting into 3rd. 14.5 et. It thankfully all held together. When I got back to the pits a quick inspection of pulling plug wires ID'd the bad cylinders, valve covers pulled revealed it wasn't bent push rods or broken rockers. I limped it home with my dad following behind. A valve job fixed the situation and I added a rev-limiter.

Kudos for joining the Big Balls 4sp club!
 
That one I will need to practice. So after launch just keep pedal frozen to the floor through the shifts?


I missed third on a run too. Embarrassing. Thankfully my rpm's were a lot lower. I've seen discussions about rev limiters and have been thinking of one because of that third gear thing.
 
That one I will need to practice. So after launch just keep pedal frozen to the floor through the shifts?....

Yep, you got it. That's why it's called "power" shifting, as in "you're under full power". I semi-perfected my technique beating on a 5.0/T-5 Mustang, but they have a built in rev-limiter with the factory EFI that stops fueling the engine above 6250rpm.

60s muscle cars don't. :)
 
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