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Dirty plugs. What say ye?

You must be on another pyscho trip Bob.....
With an engine making 800 hp...& a 3hp difference between tests....any SANE person would ASK QUESTIONS such as:
- was the difference due to dyno error/variation. The difference is less than 0.38%.
- with such a small change, WHY wasn't plug gap & indexing changed to see if EITHER made a difference.
- bigger gaps made MORE HP on this engine, so it CAM make a difference

img356.jpg
 
Notice in the EMC test Champions were not tested but TWO types of NGKs were tested. Hmmm....
 
You must be on another pyscho trip Bob.....
With an engine making 800 hp...& a 3hp difference between tests....any SANE person would ASK QUESTIONS such as:
- was the difference due to dyno error/variation. The difference is less than 0.38%.
- with such a small change, WHY wasn't plug gap & indexing changed to see if EITHER made a difference.
- bigger gaps made MORE HP on this engine, so it CAM make a difference

View attachment 1726771
You're always referencing irrelevant information.....you would likely believe, because you've found an obscure article in a unknown publication, that **** is good to eat because of it's nutritional value and its free....
BOB RENTON
 
It is only obscure because you didn't know about it. Just because R.J. Renton hasn't heard about 'it' does not mean it is obscure, it just means you are less informed than than you think you are.....
 
It is only obscure because you didn't know about it. Just because R.J. Renton hasn't heard about 'it' does not mean it is obscure, it just means you are less informed than than you think you are.....
There is an article written by a famous automotive authority about NOx production in automotive engines, related to spark advance characteristics .....perhaps you've not heard about him...Elmo Bummephuche, as he is a self appointed authority in everything (an awesome responsibility), similar to yourself, who, from time to time, gets it wrong, which is most of the time......perhaps a thinking and overall knowledge contest is in order....what say you?
BOB RENTON
 
Well there is a contradiction in terms: how can getting it wrong from time to time be the same as getting it wrong most of the time......
Bob, I have no doubt that in many areas you have more knowledge than I do. Happy now? What is just as important, if not more, is experience. Life experience & what is LEARNED from it. I have had a tremendous amount of hands on experience. I recall you talking in an earlier thread about the mutual inductance & inductive reactance of ign coils. I will bet that NOT ONE winner of the EM contests, Indy or Nascar race chose the ign coil based on those parameters...& more likely had never heard of them. Textbook knowledge in this hobby is only useful if it can be converted to practical use.

The 'obscure' article in post #41 comes from a 520 page book written by D. Vizard on BMC mini/Cooper engines. They do have do have spark plugs & engines, Bob, in places other than the USA...
 
Well there is a contradiction in terms: how can getting it wrong from time to time be the same as getting it wrong most of the time......
Bob, I have no doubt that in many areas you have more knowledge than I do. Happy now? What is just as important, if not more, is experience. Life experience & what is LEARNED from it. I have had a tremendous amount of hands on experience. I recall you talking in an earlier thread about the mutual inductance & inductive reactance of ign coils. I will bet that NOT ONE winner of the EM contests, Indy or Nascar race chose the ign coil based on those parameters...& more likely had never heard of them. Textbook knowledge in this hobby is only useful if it can be converted to practical use.

The 'obscure' article in post #41 comes from a 520 page book written by D. Vizard on BMC mini/Cooper engines. They do have do have spark plugs & engines, Bob, in places other than the USA...
I'm not impressed.....I use to own an origional Austin Mini-Cooper...(not the BMW version, even with the JC Cooper head mods)....it's virtues were discussed in great detail by Grorge F. Lloyd III, in his publication: GETTING MORE HP AND HANDLING FROM YOUR MINI COOPER S, published in the late 1960's.....BTW...the Mini's used Lodge FE250E plugs....which are SUPERIOR TO NGK in every way......so....get ready for the thinking contest.....
BOB RENTON
 
Maybe some idle jet/IAB tune for low rpm driving.
Lewtot, To your point, I was thinking at first of fiddling with the IDB's, (Low Idle Bleeds) but ThumperDart said no, Just turn in the metering block mixture screws a 1/4 turn in until I get some cleanliness and then go back in small increments. The procedure gave me some promising results for the time being.
If I can't get a good plug reading after some real blasts and street corner idling (I have no AFR setup just yet) then I will go to your suggestion to look closer to the IAB's (which I presume means Idle Air Bleeds)
Too many acronyms for simple stuff these days. LOL
Thank you.
 
So now Bob you are doing what you blame others for doing. Lodge spark plugs are superior to NGK in every way, you say. Where is the proof [ testing, numbers etc ] that PROVE it??????????

I do know one thing. There are fake NGK plugs being sold on the internet. People only fake good products because nobody is going to buy a fake bad product.
 
So now Bob you are doing what you blame others for doing. Lodge spark plugs are superior to NGK in every way, you say. Where is the proof [ testing, numbers etc ] that PROVE it??????????

I do know one thing. There are fake NGK plugs being sold on the internet. People only fake good products because nobody is going to buy a fake bad product.
Fake NGK's on the net? What?
 
Yep! There is also some info on how to tell the fakes from the real ones....
 
I would work with who you got the carb from.
Double check the basics, float levels, throttle blade position at idle to exposure of transfer slot, air gap between bowl vents and filter top.
The Primary to Secondary jet size split seems pretty large from what I usually run with a plugged secondary power valve? Secondary have the jet extensions and notched float also?
The Colder 7s should be good at the track, but might be too cold for street driving.
If your in the carb, measure the idle restriction size. If it is 0.035" or larger it might be too rich (depends on the bleed sizes too.)
 
I would work with who you got the carb from.
Double check the basics, float levels, throttle blade position at idle to exposure of transfer slot, air gap between bowl vents and filter top.
The Primary to Secondary jet size split seems pretty large from what I usually run with a plugged secondary power valve? Secondary have the jet extensions and notched float also?
The Colder 7s should be good at the track, but might be too cold for street driving.
If your in the carb, measure the idle restriction size. If it is 0.035" or larger it might be too rich (depends on the bleed sizes too.)
I have reached my carb guy and he ThumperDart has told me to start with turning in the mixture screws for now. I have leaner low Idle bleeds. There are .070's all around and I have .072's to install if I have to.
The floats are at mid window level on idle.
Have not checked the throttle blades positions yet.

primary jets are BLP's not Holley's. For instance, #80's in BLP's are #76 in Holley.
 
Have you turned the idle up since you received the carb?
 
You're always referencing irrelevant information.....you would likely believe, because you've found an obscure article in a unknown publication, that **** is good to eat because of it's nutritional value and its free....
BOB RENTON

Really ? How can you be any more hypocritical. You should probably read half your post. Then read this one back to yourself!
 
I would work with who you got the carb from.
Double check the basics, float levels, throttle blade position at idle to exposure of transfer slot, air gap between bowl vents and filter top.
The Primary to Secondary jet size split seems pretty large from what I usually run with a plugged secondary power valve? Secondary have the jet extensions and notched float also?
The Colder 7s should be good at the track, but might be too cold for street driving.
If your in the carb, measure the idle restriction size. If it is 0.035" or larger it might be too rich (depends on the bleed sizes too.)
I see 451Mopar addressed the subject.
 
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