22in to 26in radiator

[Doorkicker]

Putting this in Racer Hangout forum because I think I might get a different reaction from those focused on restoration projects - which this definitely isn't.

I have 66 Charger that has a 22" rad and a corresponding stock 22" opening.

I would like to put in a 26" rad and exploring cutting the rad support sides to ensure proper airflow.

Thoughts? Reactions?

 

[gkent]

Either that or swap out the front rad support - which is no easy task !! What about just getting a thicker, more efficient 22" rad ??

 

[MWbirdLOVER70]

Either that or swap out the front rad support - which is no easy task !! What about just getting a thicker, more efficient 22" rad ??

I agree 3 core that 22”

 

[R/T Boy 67]

Only the passenger side needs to be cut, or you can buy a reproduction panel for that side.

 

[Doorkicker]

Either that or swap out the front rad support - which is no easy task !! What about just getting a thicker, more efficient 22" rad ??

Oooff... changing the rad support is no simple task! As you pointed out. The current rad is already a 3 core.

The setup is actually clean... very good rad, good shroud, appropriate thermostat, a decent fan (considering changing), and a performance mech. pump.

The "issue" is not unique... on hot days - and it get's pretty humid here - the temp spikes (200+) when not moving. Honestly, not sure a bigger rad will even help with that particular scenario (i.e., wider rad just means more water when sitting still... when air flows, I'm good).

I think my original post was to see if someone was like, "Yeah I did that and it helped a lot..." It's just really weird to see this tiny opening at the front of the car... and my Cornet and other Charger have these (comparatively) giant openings and they NEVER overheat when sitting still on the hottest days... and the rad is basically the only basic difference.

 

[Doorkicker]

I agree 3 core that 22”

yeah... have a 3 core in it now.

 

[Doorkicker]

Only the passenger side needs to be cut, or you can buy a reproduction panel for that side.

Interesting!! I didn't even consider that and it makes great sense. Certainly solves the batt tray proximity issue.

 

[Mopar083]

I bought a 22" to 26" adapter kit from Glen-Ray Radiators in Wausau, WI. It consists of four plates that extend the 22" mount locations and allow a 26" to bolt up with no drilling. Used it on a '70 B body. Not sure if they have something for a '66. It worked out really well.

 

[Doorkicker]

I bought a 22" to 26" adapter kit from Glen-Ray Radiators in Wausau, WI. It consists of four plates that extend the 22" mount locations and allow a 26" to bolt up with no drilling. Used it on a '70 B body. Not sure if they have something for a '66. It worked out really well.

Wow... I didn't even know that was a thing. Just out of curiosity... how far back does it push the rad from the core support towards the engine?

 

[coloradodave]

Different car, but may help somebody. Used a small reciprocating air saw to cut 4" from the passenger side support of my 63 Fury. Used the stock driver's side mounting holes and redrilled the passenger side for a 26" Griffin 2 core aluminum radiator. Can't tell you how much it helped but the car does not overheat, even when over 100*. I think it has to do with a combination of small improvements, paying attention to details...

 

[Dave6T4]

Yes, I have done that, and it helped a lot. I had a 1967 Coronet wagon that I had put a 383 into. It had a 22" rad that barely kept the engine cool. When I later upgraded to a 440 engine, I knew I would need a 26" radiator.
I drilled out the spot welds on the passenger side of the rad support. I then cut an approximately 3" wide strip off the passenger side rad support that included the original radiator mounting points. Bolt this piece to the passenger side of your 26" radiator. Now, bolt your radiator to the driver side of the rad support, overlaying the sectioned passenger side on top of the remaining rad support. You can now scribe down the sectioned piece. Now, remove the radiator, and cut out the scribed section of the rad support. Unbolt the sectioned piece from the passenger side of the radiator, and clamp it to the widened rad support. A bit of welding, and body work, and it looks original. This way, the original mounting holes and opening flange are retained.

 

[Mopar083]

Wow... I didn't even know that was a thing. Just out of curiosity... how far back does it push the rad from the core support towards the engine?

It moved the radiator mounting surface back about 1/4" at most. The plates are 14ga. or so.

 

[Orig69]

Agree on the 22 inch radiator.

My 440 engine still has the original 22 inch radiator and the original clutch fan with no issues.

 

[gkent]

Only the passenger side needs to be cut, or you can buy a reproduction panel for that side.

You can get away with cutting only one side but on original 26" supports, both sides are different than the 23" supports.

To your point of the temp hitting 200 deg., keep in mind that watter boils at 212. That said, you want the heat to boil moisture and consensation out of the oil and crankcase. As long as coolant isn't boiling out onto the ground, don't worry about it.

 

[PurpleBeeper]

Putting this in Racer Hangout forum because I think I might get a different reaction from those focused on restoration projects - which this definitely isn't.

I have 66 Charger that has a 22" rad and a corresponding stock 22" opening.

I would like to put in a 26" rad and exploring cutting the rad support sides to ensure proper airflow.

Thoughts? Reactions?

Unless it’s a rare car, cut the opening

 

[Doorkicker]

Yes, I have done that, and it helped a lot. I had a 1967 Coronet wagon that I had put a 383 into. It had a 22" rad that barely kept the engine cool. When I later upgraded to a 440 engine, I knew I would need a 26" radiator.
I drilled out the spot welds on the passenger side of the rad support. I then cut an approximately 3" wide strip off the passenger side rad support that included the original radiator mounting points. Bolt this piece to the passenger side of your 26" radiator. Now, bolt your radiator to the driver side of the rad support, overlaying the sectioned passenger side on top of the remaining rad support. You can now scribe down the sectioned piece. Now, remove the radiator, and cut out the scribed section of the rad support. Unbolt the sectioned piece from the passenger side of the radiator, and clamp it to the widened rad support. A bit of welding, and body work, and it looks original. This way, the original mounting holes and opening flange are retained.

View attachment 1696577

View attachment 1696578

Awesome!!! Thank you!

 

[fullmetaljacket]

Awesome!!! Thank you!

I cut the opening on mine very carefully and neatly to look like it came from the factory like that. The trick is to make sure that all crevices, round holes and openings small and large are sealed so that incoming air has no place to go but through the radiator. 12.5 compression, city street driven, distilled water, water wetter, Robert Shaw high flow thermostat. 190 degree tops on hot humid days.

 

[68 HEMI GTS]

Bolt it in, I reused my driver side holes. I didn’t cut the opening.

 

[fourgearsavoy]

I installed a 26" rad in my Savoy and just drilled a few new holes for mounting. I didn't enlarge the opening because there are only 2-3 tubes covered and I really don't think it was worth cutting for that small amount of cooling. It keeps my 493 around 190 driving and creeps to 200 on a 90 degree day while in traffic or sitting still. As stated above by GKent 200 degrees isn't that hot. I think a shroud would improve my cooling system but for the most part just a thermal clutch fan does the job.

 

[1967coronet]

I did cut the passenger side on my 67 and installed a 26" , drilled a couple new holes and used 1/4 " J nuts on the new holes.
Mine is so far from original it didn't really matter.