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318 oil filter base leaking!!! i can't seal it up!

65coronet70dart

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Hey guys i just got my 318 rebuilt, putting it back in my coronet. but for some reason i can't get the oil filter base to seal up, i have inspected all the flanges, nice and smooth and clean, i used a factory gasket with sealant, that didn't work so i tried no sealant, and then i tried gasket with the right stuff gasket maker, and then i tried just right stuff gasket maker, WTF...im loosing my mind here this should be a simple task.

It has a high volume oil pump (not high pressure) but that shouldn't be a problem, i have the engine on the stand and I'm glad i checked before i put it in, i used a oil pump shaft primer and a low speed cordless drill to prime to oil system and the oil filter base was leaking like crazy.

here is another good question, why doesn't dampener line up with the zero on the timing gauge when i am at TDC on piston one? the damper has timing marks stamped into it, but they wont work, its like i need to buy a timing sticker and stick that on there.
 

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Never have messed with a 318, but just looking at the parts...

The filter plate just goes on one way, from the looks of it, so I'll ask this. Without the plate's gasket, when you position it onto the location, from the outer flange to the inner flange, do both contact the pump surface?
Thinking the inner flange, where the filter threads hold it in place, should be off the pump surface a little. It would take that to 'tighten' the outer flange against the gasket. Wondering if the plate could be too loose. You might need to 'shift' the inner flange a little to tighten it up.

On your balancer timing mark...is it the right balancer? If so, probably shifted, if TDC doesn't line up. Recheck all of it, to be sure the balancer is off.
If the balancer IS off, it's not only the timing mark, but the balancing aspect that's off, too. Sure, might not be enough to worry with...your call. Go back and double-check your TDC timing, and go from there. Don't forget there's several degrees of crank rotation at TOP, but only one TDC.
 
ok guys thanks for your help. so on my 15th attempt i got it to seal up. i ended up making a cork rubber 1/8" gasket for the big one the thickest material i had to get more clamping force, not using a small gasket to increase clamping force and I'm not worried about the slightest leak by there, and i drilled 4 more holes in the plate, the other thing i did was used a bronze thrust washer between the plate and fitting to help spread out the clamping force to the outside edges. and it worked great....finally! thanks for all your input. I'm not sure what to do with the dampener, i think I'm just going to run it and time it by ear/feel.
 
Just check the dampener carefully to see if the outer ring has slipped. The layer between will deteriorate and allow the outer ring to slip/move; it won't get better. I can't say that I have personally had one fall/fly off (or even seen one) but they do fail ......
 
but it is a new replacement...although I noticed the casting says made in china. I was thinking about just getting a stick on timing sticker and setting it my self. its running good, timed just by ear feel. how do I know how many degrees I want it to be set at? how does the advance feature on the timing light work, is that for increased idle?
 
If there's any doubt on the inertia ring slipping on the balancer, take a marker and put a line on it from the edge of the face to the center as much as you can and check it after a week or so of running.
 
Now adays new does not mean anything alot of the time good used is better
 
some small blocks had timing marks on the housing on either side of water pump, you will either need to get correct balancer, w/p housing, or use the timing tape
 
Now adays new does not mean anything alot of the time good used is better
I've found newer factory balancers from low mileage cars to be off and that was many years back. Only way to find true TDC is with a degree wheel and piston stop.
 
some small blocks had timing marks on the housing on either side of water pump, you will either need to get correct balancer, w/p housing, or use the timing tape

Yup the 67-69 318s had a cast iron pump with a lower dr hose and a tin tab on the pass side.Sometime in 69 they switched to aluminum pump and moved the hose to the other side along with changing the damper and timing cover with the marks cast in the cover.
 
hmmmm very interesting....i have a cast iron water pump, aluminum timing cover. how do i know i got the right engine balancer, no one has any to sell...when they start to wobble a lot does that mean they are going bad?
 
On the oil filter plate issue: Make sure you are only using the large outer gasket with the plate. There should not be a gasket where the threaded part goes.
I usually coat the gasket with Permatex Indian Head gasket shellac. Now the trick is pre-fitting the filter plate to the block. With no gasket, the center of the plate should not touch the block. You want to place the filter plate on a non-scratching surface like plywood, and lightly pound the center down a bit from the back side of the plate.
When you put the filter base on the block with the outer gasket, there should be a slight distance between the center of the plate and the block, then when you tighten down the threaded part, it will pull the filter plate down tight on the gasket. Also, the oil filter will also push the plate into the Block when you tighten the filter.
 
I had the same filter base plate problem. I used the Canton Racing billet aluminum plate and haven't had an issue since.
 
wow aluminum, I would think that would cause more problems, but if you have had good luck with it awesome, I will have to try that next time.
 
I know this is an old thread but I'm having the same problem with a 318 poly that was rebuilt. The filter plate gasket is leaking like a a stuck pig. One of the mechanics that worked on it made his own out of paper gasket material and it worked ok for a bit. I will get getting the 1/8 inch cork material my question is what type and size of crush washer was used?
 
I know this is an old thread but I'm having the same problem with a 318 poly that was rebuilt. The filter plate gasket is leaking like a a stuck pig. One of the mechanics that worked on it made his own out of paper gasket material and it worked ok for a bit. I will get getting the 1/8 inch cork material my question is what type and size of crush washer was used?
It's a rubber gasket...
https://www.ebay.com/p/84053506?iid...ZbogR5Zdy5zuIAnVZOeSg8SMuU2kT67AaAms3EALw_wcB

Actually cheaper on Rock Auto if you search the part number.
 
Hey guys i just got my 318 rebuilt, putting it back in my coronet. but for some reason i can't get the oil filter base to seal up, i have inspected all the flanges, nice and smooth and clean, i used a factory gasket with sealant, that didn't work so i tried no sealant, and then i tried gasket with the right stuff gasket maker, and then i tried just right stuff gasket maker, WTF...im loosing my mind here this should be a simple task.

It has a high volume oil pump (not high pressure) but that shouldn't be a problem, i have the engine on the stand and I'm glad i checked before i put it in, i used a oil pump shaft primer and a low speed cordless drill to prime to oil system and the oil filter base was leaking like crazy.

here is another good question, why doesn't dampener line up with the zero on the timing gauge when i am at TDC on piston one? the damper has timing marks stamped into it, but they wont work, its like i need to buy a timing sticker and stick that on there.
I’m having the same problem with a 73 La 318 I’ve tryed twice my engine is in the car trying to prime it with cordless drill problems 1/2 qt on the floor but I do have oil pressure think there’s surpose to be a gasket on that double sided nut that holds flat plate to block the other side the filter threads on have a great holiday gonna ,try again tue
 
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