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383 cam selection mistake??

rkohlman2013

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Ok so give me your opinions, but after all the research and reading previous forums about millions of cam selections, i chose a Lunati cam for my 383. The engine has been freshed up at some point prior to me and i havent pulled the heads to look at the pistons to see the height or anything. But it does have 155-160 psi ceanking on a compression test with fresh 915 heads. Its in a 67 Coronet 440, 727 with 2500 convertor and 3:55 posi rear end. It has ab old TM6 intake, 770 vac sec street avenger and long tube headers, msd ignition(distributor, coil and 6AL box). I went with the vodoo 10200703 cam kit. I talked to hughes, looked at MP cams, all. I have used lunatis in the past, but all GM. Dont beat me up to bad, but its still in the box and if its a horrible decision its returnable lol. Let me know, thanks
Ryan
 

You sure that's the right number? Small Block Cam............​

Lunati 10200703 Voodoo 226/234 Hydraulic Flat Cam for Chrysler 273-360 LA​

 
I put a 702 lunati in my 383 last year and I'm very happy with it. Very strong low end and mid range power. The 703 might be a bit large just depends what you are looking for.
 
you need to sort out the pt# vs big/small block but as far as which grind honestly for a 383 the 702 is probably a better choice especially with fuel prices going nuts. That said I'd probably still run the 703...
 
you need to sort out the pt# vs big/small block but as far as which grind honestly for a 383 the 702 is probably a better choice especially with fuel prices going nuts. That said I'd probably still run the 703...
10230703K yeah its the big block one. I thought about the 702 but being a weekend car and wanted some strip use too, i just didnt know. Its really my first mopar build.
 
What are the specs on the cam? I don't want to look up the part number.
 
Agree, 702 a better choice. 383 is a short stroke engine, too much duration hurts the low end. Extra exh duration isn't helping either....
 
Voodoo Hydraulic Flat Tappet - Chrysler 361-440 268/276

Depending on what your doing, the cam might be fine. It might be a bit large for a daily driver.
You will need to do some tuning if you haven't already.

In the link below, under timing curves, look at Curve "E". Try the Black or blue advance stop bushing with the silver and blue spring, and around 16-18 degrees initial advance , about 36 total mechanical advance as a starting point in the ignition tuning.
Set Your Timing

The Avenger carbs seem to have small idle restrictions and power valve restrictions.
Also, I have received new Avenger carbs that were not fully cleaned inside. Not sure about Hollys quality control these days?
I replaced the stock metering plate with one that had the screw-in restrictors to see how changes worked out, then used a pin drill of the correct size to enlarge the idle channel restrictions and power valve restrictions in the original metering block. It made the carb much more responsive through the transition circuit and the AFR between cruse and power had a bit more spread.
 
The Lunati web site may be the worst I've seen. Unless you are buying a Chev part.
 
J
Voodoo Hydraulic Flat Tappet - Chrysler 361-440 268/276

Depending on what your doing, the cam might be fine. It might be a bit large for a daily driver.
You will need to do some tuning if you haven't already.

In the link below, under timing curves, look at Curve "E". Try the Black or blue advance stop bushing with the silver and blue spring, and around 16-18 degrees initial advance , about 36 total mechanical advance as a starting point in the ignition tuning.
Set Your Timing

The Avenger carbs seem to have small idle restrictions and power valve restrictions.
Also, I have received new Avenger carbs that were not fully cleaned inside. Not sure about Hollys quality control these days?
I replaced the stock metering plate with one that had the screw-in restrictors to see how changes worked out, then used a pin drill of the correct size to enlarge the idle channel restrictions and power valve restrictions in the original metering block. It made the carb much more responsive through the transition circuit and the AFR between cruse and power had a bit more spread.
I planned on 20 inital and no more than 14-16 mech advance. Good info about the carb, the Holley was on there when i bought the car. I planned on tearing it down anyways and putting a kit in it with new pv and spring once cam is installed. I like the quick change spring cover on it.
 
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This isn't the first build I have ever done. I just wanted an opinion about if I over cammed a 383. I have read that they are sensitive to being over cammed and it doesn't take much apparently. But I have all the other supporting mods with the convertor, gears, headers, ignition, adjustable rockers, etc. I just hope that the static compression is there. I think I will pull a head and see what pistons they used and measure compression height. Most of my experience is within the BOP big block realm.
 
Do you know what cam is in it pumping 155-160?

We have a Lunati 704 in a 383, 2600 stall and 3.55s. The 703 and 702 have similar power bands 703’s power comes in a little later, from more overlap, and makes more power.
 
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This isn't the first build I have ever done. I just wanted an opinion about if I over cammed a 383.

As Steve Dulcich once told me. "If you're on the fence on what cam to use, choose the smaller of the 2, you'll be much happier"! Good Luck
 
Not sure what your specs are since they still haven't been posted, but-

I had a fresh 383 HP with 906 heads, a torker intake, a stock TC and 3.55's, using an MP 284/484 cam.

The biggest PITA was tuning the carb.

I found a 750 was too big and a 650 was too small.

Ended up making a fraken-carb out of a 600 with the rear metering block and associated valves from the 750.

It really wanted a strong vac signal and could have used a spread bore (which is what I was emulating with the small 600 venturi and the big flow on the secondaries.

After that, it ran great.
 
Not sure what your specs are since they still haven't been posted, but-

I had a fresh 383 HP with 906 heads, a torker intake, a stock TC and 3.55's, using an MP 284/484 cam.

The biggest PITA was tuning the carb.

I found a 750 was too big and a 650 was too small.

Ended up making a fraken-carb out of a 600 with the rear metering block and associated valves from the 750.

It really wanted a strong vac signal and could have used a spread bore (which is what I was emulating with the small 600 venturi and the big flow on the secondaries.

After that, it ran great.
I have a mopar .484 in my Plymouth with closed port heads and AFB 625 and headers.
It runs well sounds great but the lunati 702 in the Charger seems more mean.
Not a direct comparison as the Charger has ported E-street heads and EFI.
 
Do you know what cam is in it pumping 155-160?

We have a Lunati 704 in a 383, 2600 stall and 3.55s. The 703 and 702 have similar power bands 703’s power comes in a little later, from more overlap, and makes more power.
I would say stock or pretty tame. its not noticeable at idle or anything
 
Not sure what your specs are since they still haven't been posted, but-

I had a fresh 383 HP with 906 heads, a torker intake, a stock TC and 3.55's, using an MP 284/484 cam.

The biggest PITA was tuning the carb.

I found a 750 was too big and a 650 was too small.

Ended up making a fraken-carb out of a 600 with the rear metering block and associated valves from the 750.

It really wanted a strong vac signal and could have used a spread bore (which is what I was emulating with the small 600 venturi and the big flow on the secondaries.

After that, it ran great.
  • Lift: .494''/.513''
  • Duration: 268 Deg / 276 Deg
  • LSA: 110 Deg
  • RPM Range: 1800-6200
  • ICL 106
 
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