383 engines
- Thread starter Phantom
- Start date
Beekeeper
It’s a disease without a cure!
Cam and carb are a couple Oh and the hp stamp that don't mean diddly. The blocks are same other than some improvements like reinforcement ribs
Of course comparing 67' to 67' HP only difference is the stamp
Of course comparing 67' to 67' HP only difference is the stamp
monaco66coupe
Well-Known Member
10.0 compression versus 9:2. Same head, stronger valve springs, higher lift camshaft. Four Barrel carb.
Beekeeper
It’s a disease without a cure!
if the 70' has its original heads they are 906 open chamber with 2.08 int. and 1.74 exh. valves. The 67' if original heads are 915 with 2.08 int and 1.60 exh.
Phantom
Active Member
The source of my question came from a compression test i did on a couple cylinders which was 60psi and 70 psi on the engine ( casting date 8-31-66 Id badge#c-383) which I thought was real low.The guy I bought it from said it was a low performance 383 not an HP.The question I have is if I have this engine rebuilt will it make good HP.As you can tell I am not an engine builder.The car a 70 RR came with e63 on fender tag.
Beekeeper
It’s a disease without a cure!
If the compression test was done correctly that's low for even a non hp engine.
Was this a hot or cold test?
Was this a hot or cold test?
I thought the exhaust manifolds were different to not sure maybe thinking of different years. If you rebuild the motor to stock specs it should produce good power. My 68 383 was built to stock specs it runs well eat up a 5.0 mustang with ease once and 99 mustang GT also the GT ran well up to 50mph then I walked the dog lol I think I hit around 125-130mph that day
monaco66coupe
Well-Known Member
60-70 is Way low. Now is the time, rings and a valve job. Compression test Indicates condition, and is not connected to compression ratio.
Mocajava
Well-Known Member
Hello Roudabush and welcome. My first assumption is that you have a 67 block and forged crank...correct? I am taking my 69' 383 2 barrel Coronet engine and pumping it up to about 425-450 HP. Stock block and crank, just better cam, pistons, rods and aluminum heads. Bumping up the compression with the correct piston to head/ combustion chamber does alot. Adding a cam that takes advantage of the compression makes it all play together very well. Almost any competant shop can research and recommend a great build with your block and crank. Get your block cleaned, and fully inspected and trued up first. Work from there with specs for your piston/head combination. Take that to the major cam manufacturers and they will have a multitude of degrees of performance you can shoot for. There are some wizards in this forum that could give you specs and manufacturers off the top of their heads to build you a torque monster...listen to them! I am sure they will chime in and they have a tremendous amount of experience.
monaco66coupe
Well-Known Member
The above advice is all good. The letter C is for 67' engine. HP manifolds came along in 68'.However, the 67 440 GTX did have them first. .
monaco66coupe
Well-Known Member
The part numbers, besides they are very obvious high flow manifolds compared to log manifolds. 2806900 for the passenger, and 2843992 for the driver side.68-69 383/440HP.
Phantom
Active Member
I do have the HP manifold on this engine luckily.I am going to see if Charlie Buck Racing engines in King NC would be interested in rebuilding this engine at a decent price.I will keep everybody informed.Thanks to all.
- - - Updated - - -
I added a pic of the engine in my photos for those interested.
- - - Updated - - -
I added a pic of the engine in my photos for those interested.
Mebsuta
Well-Known Member
Camshaft
Valve springs
compression ratio in some cases
intake and carb in some cases(2V vs 4V)
exhaust manifolds
windadge tray
probably curve in ignition
Valve springs
compression ratio in some cases
intake and carb in some cases(2V vs 4V)
exhaust manifolds
windadge tray
probably curve in ignition
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