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383 hard to start

Garys1969RR

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When starting my son's 383, it is difficult to start most of the time. But it seems that when you release the key from the start position, many times it starts immediately. Like all of a sudden it's getting more voltage to the spark plugs. Could the starter be drawing too much voltage? Which reduces the battery power available to fire the plugs? I think there is a ballast resistor by pass circuit that shoots 12 volts to the coil when cranking the engine over. Does anyone know how this works? I'm pretty sure this is the problem. All our other motors fire right up when we start them. Any help/suggestions appreciated. Thanks,
 
From your description on how it's acting, possible it's the ignition switch itself, Gary. Bad, or worn contact inside the switch.
 
What year is it? does it have dual ballast resistor. If it has dual ballast resistor replace it.
 
I had exactly the same thing happen to a 318 powered truck. It was the ballast resister. I tested it by running direct power from the battery to the coil, the starting problems immediately went away. Of course, you can't drive like this because the coil would overheat and a carbed engine won't turn off with the key, but it helps narrow down the problem.
 
Thanks for this info guys that duster I have for sale started to do this cranky cranky cranky let off vrrroom I thought it was a bit strange ,I'll stick a b.r. on it and see what happens. Thanks
 
Found the problem, I believe. Replaced the ignition box, and it fired right up first try! The old one was a bit worn looking, and it said Made in Hong Kong on the side!~ Lol. So hope that fixes the prob, as well as the above 4000 RPM mis fire.

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By the way, the new one we got at O Reilly Auto parts, is painted blue, and only cost $20! I have been using a similar one on my 451 RR engine, and it has worked great!
 
I have used the napa equivalent module, p#TP51SB, housed in a blue or grey box depending on vintage. I replaced a dead orange ECU with it and have been happy ever since.
 
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