383 or 440 what do you guys think?

[Jaysam]

Ok guys I have a 74 satty with a 318 and have the option through a friend of a friend to buy a 383 out of a 65 or 67 chrysler big boat car with supposedly 75,XXXmi or a 440 out of a mid to late 70's motor home with supposedly 68,XXXmi. The 440 may have more smog stuff but that may be coming all off anyway, what do you guys think would be the better option? Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Thanks, Jason

 

[ODZKing]

Well, Jason, depends on your expectations. Is your Satty mostly stock or very modified.
A 440 would be available in 74, but NOT a 383, that would obviously be an red flag.
On the other hand do you take it on trips? Are you looking for any milage? 383 will be better for that. They have plenty of umph but then again it won't be a 440 if your looking for speed. Nothing wrong with a fresh 383 at all! Tuned properly my 67 383 4bbl gets 15-16-17 on the highway. My 400 gets around 10.
What are you looking to accomplish?

 

[Jaysam]

Not really looking for a long hauler so much just a fun street machine

 

[Meep-Meep]

Go with the engine that has the lowest leak down of you want to just drop in and go. Otherwise I'd opt for the 440 and do a tear down. It's very possible either engine might just need to be honed and re ringed, new bearings and crank grind and most of all head work. A very mild cam to preserve cylinder pressure with the low compression pistons will be a good upgrade. This can be a very inexpensive build yielding great results if you follow a strict recipe.

 

[wedgie]

Something to consider: You won't be able to use the '65 trans as it is cable operated. If it is a '67, no issue. Some of the motorhome transmissions had the park brake setup on the tailshaft.

 

[Sweet5ltr]

440... You'll thank yourself later.. I get 14-15MPG on the interstate with my mods in sig.. 8-10MPG around town. Father got 17-18MPG on the interstate with low comp 8.0-8.5:1 440 (out of a wrecked highway patrol car in the 70's), basic .480 comp cam, RPM intake, factory iron heads, and 750 holley w/ peg leg 8 3/4, 3.91 gears (4-speed). Used to drive it down to Panama city for work. Got rid of the 383's because he went through 4-5 of them in a few years. Put the 440 in the car and it was good for about thirty years without a rebuild. Brother cracked a piston about ten years ago street racing.. I went with Carolina Machine Engines when I needed the long block rebuilt two years ago. They did a fantastic job, and were cheaper than anyone locally by a wide margin and offer a great warranty.

 

[robinsonwr]

There is no replacement for displacement!

 

[69 GTX]

Having had both, 440 !! Put a Comp cams 268 high energy cam in it with a dual plane high rise, holley 750 vac sec and have fun!

 

[razreddobie]

I agree. Go with the 440. That way you can do what you want and your wallet will.

 

[furyus]

I thought the motor home 400 had small valves to boost torque. Might want to check. If so, the 383 would be better for just dropping it in.

 

[Jaysam]

Thanks for all the advise guys, i really appreciate it. I was talking with two other guys, and one of them was a big mopar guy from back in the days and he recommended the mid-late 60's 383 over the mid 70's (approx 73-75) 440 because he said those years 440 is a smog motor due to gas crunch back then and will have smaller valves and he also said back then the 383's were beating the tar all day long out of the 440's. Does any of this sound correct? I just dont wanna spend $$$ money on something i wont be happy with down the road so im trying to do reaserch and decide. I wouldn't mind spending a little extra money now to get it the way i want it, instead of spending alot and not having it the way i wanted, then spending alot more and getting it the way i wanted it the first time, if that makes any sence to anybody. Any replies or help again would be appreciated, Jason

also here is what i found for the specs
mid to late 60's
383 2bbl- comp. 9.2:1 / hp. 270@4400rpm / tq. 390@2800

mid 70's
440 4bbl- comp. 8.2:1 / hp. 220@3600rpm / tq. 350@2400
440 4bbl- comp. 8.2:1 / hp. 275@4800rpm / tq. 375@3200

im not sure why there were two sets of specs. for the 440 but the specs may look better in some ways for the 383 at lower rps, which is what i want is a nice torquey street motor

 

[99ss]

There is no replacement for displacement!

truer words have not been spoken ...LOL

Same choice here to make but I'm opting for the 383 as that's what came in it originally but if I had a small block and was going to a big block other than a hemi the 440 would be the way to go

 

[Jaysam]

There is no replacement for displacement!

I also love that, thanks

 

[19polara64]

The bottom 440 is the hp version I think. If you want low end torque then the 440 is the answer. They will always have more torque then the 383. You'll also have better header fitment with the 440. If you're going to bust it apart to do rings and bearings, you could send the block in to get decked and the heads milled to up the compression. Doesn't cost that much, I'm taking my block in to mill .030 off and it's a little over a hundred to get that done. Before you pull the pistons measure how far down in the hole they are and cc the heads, that way you'll know the true C/R. A good mopar machine shop will know how much they can mill off. There are alot of cam choices for low compression engines also. Low compression isn't a death knell for an engine! Still lots of fun to be had! Good luck! Rene'

 

[68 HEMI GTS]

big cars need big motors, 440 all the way. the heads on a 67 383 are nothing to write home about in stock form. plus the seats need leaded gas or they will get all beat to hell.

 

[2fuzy]

I have been messing with big block mopars for about 30 yrs now and really everyone says go with the 440 as I tend to also
that said the 383 will be a forged crank and and a better runner with posibly a better block casting
the 440 depending on year probaly is an external balance cast crank and towrds the end 76 up are not the best casting if it is a motor home it may be the 440-3 designation which is basically a low rpm truck motor and cammed as such it will run out of weaties at about 4k but will tow a boat well
it may or may not have hardened seats
if I was in your shoes I would buy both and mix and match
if money was a primary concern I would go with the 383

 

[Kern Dog]

I like the idea of the 383 if it really is a low mile engine. I say this even though I have only gone with 440 engines when I use a big block. It is an internally balanced engine allowing the use of any torque converter you can find.
All later motorhome 440s were cast crank, external balance, LOW compression engines. The pistons were sometimes almost .150 down on the hole. They often used the same heads as car and truck engines, so don't be fooled into thinking that they have smaller valves. I've pulled many engines from junkyards and from my research, most motorhome engines are at a calculated compression ratio of below 7.5 to one. If you are looking for a "core" to rebuild, a 440 is absolutely the right choice. As stated, the bigger size really helps. You can run two Mopar BB engines side by side with identical heads, cam, exhaust and compression and the one with more cubic inches will win. The 440 can be built with a 9.5 compression ratio and a medium rate cam and produce over 425 HP while still idling pretty good.

 

[J5 GTX]

Again, figure out just what you expect out of the car. Cruise machine or tire smoking monster.
I personally like the 383.
Internal/external balance is a critical concern when matching a transmission.
What about building a 383 Magnum engine. 383 with 440 heads.
383 is about 50 lbs less weight than a 440.(handling and suspension concern)
You've got a small block car, that means upgrade on the suspension and drivetrain no matter which engine you pick.
I think the later 440 block was beefed up to handle more torque. '74 and later?

 

[2fuzy]

Again, figure out just what you expect out of the car. Cruise machine or tire smoking monster.
I personally like the 383.
Internal/external balance is a critical concern when matching a transmission.
What about building a 383 Magnum engine. 383 with 440 heads.
383 is about 50 lbs less weight than a 440.(handling and suspension concern)
You've got a small block car, that means upgrade on the suspension and drivetrain no matter which engine you pick.
I think the later 440 block was beefed up to handle more torque. '74 and later?

383 and 440 share the same heads in any givin year the blocks are also equal
the later castings 440 & 400 after 75 got less meat in them wight difference is maybe 10lbs if that nethier one is is slouch in the performance arena 57 cubic cubic inches is an advantage but many a 383 has smoked its big brother on the track as well
when I was younger a buddy and me both had very similar cars mine is a 73 440 charger rally 3:23 auto his was a 74 rally charger with a 400/383 4spd 4:10 and in the stop light drag race game he would have my lunch about 70% of the time when we hit the interstate it became a different story I would have his 100 % of the time
racing on the interstate at 100 + became a cost prohibitive hobby a while back so the extra cubes became kind of irrelevant

 

[Bruzilla]

There's a reason why Chrysler offered the 440 as an option to the 383... it was better. Always go with the best engine you can because when you go with a lesser engine you'll always end up wanting the better engine. Yes, as they sit right now, the 383 might be a little better, but the 440 has much more potential. Plus there's nothing that gets a Mopar more respect and attention than 440 badging/callouts.