383 suggestions please

[Loulang]

Looking for some ideas for my 383 B build in my 66 Charger. I run 93 octane always and have the holly sniper efi already installed and it can handle up to 500hp. I have a budget around $7000. I have the motor at machine shop just waiting to here from him. So I would like to have some ideas to run by him. I’d like to hear what y’all have done to your 383’s or hear some ideas from any engine builders. I am gonna purchase some Doug’s ceramic headers just waiting to know more on what direction my heads will be taking. Thanks in advance.

 

[ykf7b0]

I will start by suggesting a hydraulic roller cam set up. The cam profile will depend on the compression ratio and cylinder heads you choose.

 

[Loulang]

I will start by suggesting a hydraulic roller cam set up. The cam profile will depend on the compression ratio and cylinder heads you choose.

Waiting to hear from the machinist to see if he can do the iron heads or should I just get some aluminum edelbrocks. I think with the rollers there’s no break in time correct?

 

[ykf7b0]

Waiting to hear from the machinist to see if he can do the iron heads or should I just get some aluminum edelbrocks. I think with the rollers there’s no break in time correct?

Correct. My last build was a roller build for that very reason.

 

[Loulang]

Correct. My last build was a roller build for that very reason.

Was yours a 383? If so what all you do to it?

 

[ykf7b0]

My last build was a 327 Chevrolet. I built my 440 over 20 years ago and it still has a flat tappet hydraulic. No one was having issues with cams going flat or possibly bad cam stock back in those days.

 

[Chi Town Runner]

Looking for some ideas for my 383 B build in my 66 Charger. I run 93 octane always and have the holly sniper efi already installed and it can handle up to 500hp. I have a budget around $7000. I have the motor at machine shop just waiting to here from him. So I would like to have some ideas to run by him. I’d like to hear what y’all have done to your 383’s or hear some ideas from any engine builders. I am gonna purchase some Doug’s ceramic headers just waiting to know more on what direction my heads will be taking. Thanks in advance.

I did mine in 2009/2010. I put a Hobbs Meter (engine hour gauge) on it to track.
So far I put on 11,191 miles with 230 hrs. with no issue except 1.
At just short of 10,000 miles it just crapped out on the road. Ended up needing to replace fuel pump push rod. There are a number of posts on this issue.
I had my 383 sonic tested and then bored .060 over. It had already been bored .030 so I only had to go another .030
If your interested I can send you a spread sheet with all I did.
Broken down by engine, suspension, drive train, interior and labor.
Send me a PM
BTW it dynoed at 532 HP not in the car

 

[496 polara]

Camshaft depends on the rest of the combination. What gear,stall converter?,driving style (highway or stop light to stop light),compression,intake,head work,etc.

Simple rule of head flow makes everything else easier.You need a lot more cam with stock heads than say edelbrocks to make the same power. Build for torque for the street IMO.

 

[Loulang]

Yea I’m looking for a strip/cruiser with torque. I don’t know if there is a stall converter but know trans was just rebuilt before I got it and plan on buying a converter based on what the cam wants. I was told it does have a 3.55 in the rear

 

[ykf7b0]

Yea I’m looking for a street/cruiser with torque. I don’t know if there is a stall converter but know trans was just rebuilt before I got it and plan on buying a converter based on what the cam wants. I was told it does have a 3.55 in the rear

For the torque converter I suggest giving Kenny Ford a call down at PTC in Muscle Shoals, Alabama.

 

[Don Frelier]

Before you buy a new converter.
Do you know if it has the original 66 transmission?
If so it may still have a 19 spline input shaft(rather than a 24 like the newer ones), high stall converters for these are tough to find.

 

[ykf7b0]

Kenny down at PTC is a Mopar fan and he will build you a custom converter based on your need.

 

[Loulang]

Before you buy a new converter.
Do you know if it has the original 66 transmission?
If so it may still have a 19 spline input shaft(rather than a 24 like the newer ones), high stall converters for these are tough to find.

Guess I’m gonna have to pull the converter out. Transmission is out also, I’m cleaning and prepping the engine bay for paint so when the motor gets back I can drop motor and tranny in and she will be done all except for exterior paint. That I’m waiting on my brother, he is a metal/paint PRO. He wins top awards for his work. He just won the crystal award of excellence at the Iola car show last year in Wisconsin

 

[RemCharger]

You should pick the heads, so you can pick the piston to get the best compression ratio.
My first 383 I built had crappy pistons, so I ended up milling the heads .060.
Not the best way to do it

 

[SlinktRR]

I did mine in 2009/2010. I put a Hobbs Meter (engine hour gauge) on it to track.
So far I put on 11,191 miles with 230 hrs. with no issue except 1.
At just short of 10,000 miles it just crapped out on the road. Ended up needing to replace fuel pump push rod. There are a number of posts on this issue.
I had my 383 sonic tested and then bored .060 over. It had already been bored .030 so I only had to go another .030
If your interested I can send you a spread sheet with all I did.
Broken down by engine, suspension, drive train, interior and labor.
Send me a PM
BTW it dynoed at 532 HP not in the car

What heads and cam on this stock stroke 532hp at the crank 383, what rpm to get 532? That is a stout build.

 

[rmchrgr]

I have a mostly stock 383 in my '68 Coronet. I drive the car all the time and it's a dog so I'd say Stroker all the way. 440 Source has 496" or 438" kits that are pretty nice for the money. I built a 438" for a friend with their parts that made 450hp and 475 lb/ft. of torque @ 6,000 rpm with a [email protected]" hydraulic flat tappet cam. .060" over 383 block, 9.3:1, 440 Source heads, Performer RPM intake, Holley 750 and TTi headers. Nothing special, low maintenance. 11" re-man "hemi' converter from Rock Auto, 3.23 gears all in a '66 Fury. My friend is very happy with with it.

 

[Curiousyellow71]

Well...with a $7000 budget I would also stroke it and build a 496. Good pistons are similiar in price.... if your crank and rods need redone, your costs are part way to aftermarket crank/rods. Balancing is close to the same cost.
If you want torque, you are best off with cubic inches. We have a 542 that is identical in appearance as a 383. But unfortunately...it is not a $7000 motor.

 

[rmchrgr]

Just a few notes on the 438/496" stroker idea. My friend's intentions with his 383 stroker were similar to the O.P. - tire-smoking torque from a 30 mph roll and good cruise manners which the 438" provides in spades. I mean, it's essentially a low deck 440. We looked into it but I talked him out of the 496" because I didn't think he'd ever utilize it to it's full potential. The car will rarely see north of 4,000 RPM. The longer stroke might make some more torque at a given rpm but how much more than 475lb/ft. do you need?

To get 438" from a 383 you could cut down a 440 crank to fit the B block that but by the time you find a decent core, get the crank refinished and find pistons etc., the cost is probably the same and you're still rolling the dice on used parts. 440 Source balances the assembly too which is nice because it saves money and hassle.

If it was my build, I woud have went with a hydruyalic roller cam. However, since my friend was on a similar budget to the O.P. we went with the hydraulic flat tappet cam. A hydraulic roller would have added several hundred dollars to the cost between the cam core itself, the roller lifters, distributor gear and custom pushrods. Again, we used stock replacement pushrods which were totally fine for that application. We had to spend some time checking them to make sure they were the correct length but it worked out in the end. He spent some coin on really nice Comp rockers but those were chosen for durability and accurate ratios.

Additionally, the 496" has a much more severe rod angle. Probably not a huge concern for a weekend driver but if you drive it enough you might see thrust-side wear sooner than you would with a less severe angle. The 438" required no block clearance either.

 

[RemCharger]

What heads and cam on this stock stroke 532hp at the crank 383, what rpm to get 532? That is a stout build.

A buddy of mine had a 383 built for his challenger edelbrock rpms and a healthy cam 250ish at 50,
Came in at right around 500hp.

I built a couple big head/cam/compression 383s that were around 600.

 

[ykf7b0]

a healthy cam 250ish at 50,

That is a healthy cam for sure. If you remember, what compression ratio?