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440 build recommendations??

trying to build a pump gas 440 with open chamber heads without quench dome pistons is a waste. it can be done but isn't desirable. i suggest that the OP get into the KB piston website and start reading up on the advantages of building a proper quench in these old engine designs using modern fuels. when i first did the quench dome piston thing in my 69 r/t i was a little over **** about it and let the details intimidate me some. basically, it ain't rocket science. the biggest problem i've always had is the bone headed machine shop guys who think they gave God instructions during the creation and won't follow the guidelines.
 
I'm buildin my 383 as a closed chamber quench motor with the KB400 domed piston at zero deck with 10.4:1. lol I'm a glutton for punishment.
 
I was wondering if some of you engine guys could give some input for a decent motor build. This will be going in my 69 Charger 4-speed Dana 3.54 and will probably be running 275/60/15 rear tires @ 28" unless I find some wider ones that are about the same heighth. I want a dependable, streetable car that runs well on 91 octane max. It will never be run on the strip, but I want it to have some get up and go. I like a lumpy cam sound, but have a vac. brake booster and headlight doors that will need to operate. What I have is a 69 HP block that I have had cleaned and magnufluxed that will easily clean up with a .030 bore. 906 heads, factory intake, and factory exhaust manifolds. The block and stock HP exhaust manifold are the only 2 things I am set on using for sure. I am open to anything else. What would be the best bang for the buck?

Forgot to add that I have the stock forged crank, rods, and pistons.

Just build a torque monster!
Screw HP.
HP is high RPM at the 1/4 mile.
High RPMs can wreak havoc.
Torque, down low is the way to go.
My 2 cents...
 
I'm buildin my 383 as a closed chamber quench motor with the KB400 domed piston at zero deck with 10.4:1. lol I'm a glutton for punishment.
i've always had a soft spot for 383's. they're what i grew up with.
 
I have reiterated this over and over, but my 440 build is a pretty darn good street engine that is cheap to build and is designed to last a long time. I posted in detail what I did in the "show me your 12 sec build" thread. I'm not saying it's the end all be all, but it works very well. The only thing I have that you may not like is a 3" TTI free flowing exhaust and that includes 2" Hooker headers. I will agree that exhaust manifolds will limit you on cam choices, but getting good performance with them is not impossible. Need to be careful with cam selection.

I like this set up. I wonder where the 915's could be had. And also seen almost identical build in the new issue of mopar muscle. I believe they used a solid cam and speed pro pistons, but same idea anyways.
 
The 915s can be duplicated pretty dang close with the 516 by putting the larger exhaust valve in and doing some pocket port work. On a street car that's slower than say 12.50s, I doubt you'd ever know the difference.
 
The 915s can be duplicated pretty dang close with the 516 by putting the larger exhaust valve in and doing some pocket port work. On a street car that's slower than say 12.50s, I doubt you'd ever know the difference.

I seen these offered from AreoHead Racing.http://www.aeroheadracing.com/id6.html Would these be a good buy or would stealth heads be better?
 
Better how? The stealths are better heads. The others are better for your pocketbook.
 
when it comes to iron heads you don't get a lot of performance for $500. the hugh's pro pockets are probably the entry level performance iron head for someone who just wants to bolt'em on and go. if rusty knew how much i had in my mopar stage 5 iron heads he'd probably be chasing me around the website with a ball bat,...lol.
 
I'll have about 1200 in my 516s with parts, porting and machine work.

when it comes to iron heads you don't get a lot of performance for $500. the hugh's pro pockets are probably the entry level performance iron head for someone who just wants to bolt'em on and go. if rusty knew how much i had in my mopar stage 5 iron heads he'd probably be chasing me around the website with a ball bat,...lol.
 
One thing to think about on headers. If it's the headers hanging under the car and the lack of ground clearance you don't like, you could go with header from Schumacher. A little pricey but quality. http://www.engine-swaps.com/Pages/ProductsYear/66.72bBody.html#head7

I have seen those advertised and heard positive comments about them. I was just trying to keep things looking mostly stock and not have the headaches people talk about with headers. Plus I have 2 sets of stock manifolds. The more I am reading the more people say if you want decent power you have to use headers. I guess I will have to decide what I want.
 
If you want a lumpy cam without the sacrifice maybe take a look at Comp Cams Thumper Cams. I can't offer any input on these as I've never tried one but have seen dyno test and have heard them, they sound great and make good power. Just a thought
 
Keep it simple: Remember motors are just big air pumps, big cams, and big intake runners take a deep breath in, but pushing it out a manifold is like pushing air through a straw. The best thing is to build the engine for what you want.

Here is my build for both set ups:

Manifold

KB pistons 30 over
915 heads, or 516 heads
Edelbrock CH4b intake
comp XL 268 cam
800 Edelbrock Thunder series carb.

Headers build
906 heads with a little bit of work porting, if you can find 915's better!!!
KB pistons
Holley Street dominator intake
850 Holley Carb
Comp XL 274 cam
1 7/8 " headers 3 inch collector ( I run summit brand and fit awesome)

Both will be nice builds. The second will get you into the low's 13's and with some good launches into the 12's

Good luckMike

PS, If you need a set of old headers I got some laying around just needed to be cleaned up, you pay for shipping.
 
That's about what I got in my 915's including all high quality components.

I don't think that's too much to have in iron heads. You're still not at what it will take to port aluminum heads and add all the good stuff.
 
Keep it simple: Remember motors are just big air pumps, big cams, and big intake runners take a deep breath in, but pushing it out a manifold is like pushing air through a straw. The best thing is to build the engine for what you want.

Here is my build for both set ups:

Manifold

KB pistons 30 over
915 heads, or 516 heads
Edelbrock CH4b intake
comp XL 268 cam
800 Edelbrock Thunder series carb.

Headers build
906 heads with a little bit of work porting, if you can find 915's better!!!
KB pistons
Holley Street dominator intake
850 Holley Carb
Comp XL 274 cam
1 7/8 " headers 3 inch collector ( I run summit brand and fit awesome)

Both will be nice builds. The second will get you into the low's 13's and with some good launches into the 12's

Good luckMike

PS, If you need a set of old headers I got some laying around just needed to be cleaned up, you pay for shipping.

Thanks for the info. Is that second build what you have in your Bee? I was impressed with the 1/4 mile time you run with that. That would be plenty of power for me. Did you have it dyno'd? Where abouts are you in WI?
 
I don't think that's too much to have in iron heads. You're still not at what it will take to port aluminum heads and add all the good stuff.

That's sorta where I was going with my question. The stealth heads cnc ported from 440 source is what $2,000. I' m debating a closed chamber head for my build instead of open 452's. Quench being my concern with the. 509 and unported heads. Not trying to hyjack the thread. Just curious. Kinda confused with this concept.
 
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