440 camshaft

[junkpile]

Hey guys, looking for some advice/info. have a 440 that I have been running for years with a 484/284 cam. I love the performance but hate some other things. Looking to replace it with a cam that will retain engine vacuum for power brakes but still have some performance above stock. are there any recommendations.

history: I have worked hard to get the timing and carb set for this cam, i can drive it anywhere without issue. I recently installed a Leed vacuum pump to compensate for the power brakes. The system works great but at night with the headlights on the electrical system is always charging whenever the brakes are applied due to pump power draw. I liked this motor much better when it was stock, it was fast and fun to drive and had no external issure, now its just a pain in the butt. I am running a 2800 stall converter, 737 with 3:23 rear gears. the motor is .030 over. What is a good cam number like used in a 440HP motor that I can install to gain back my vacuum accessories off the motor and put this car more back to how its supposed to be without all the modifications.

thanks in advance.

 

[Don Frelier]

 

[Sahara]

I will be watching and learning.

 

[451Mopar]

I like the Hughes Engines cams. I have a SEH1620 in my 360 and it makes a nice daily driver.
With the cubes of the 440, the next size up SEH2024BL-11 would be a decent choice, and about the highest lift I would want to run with stock rocker arms.
The Specs are 220/224 @ 0.050" duration, 0.503"/0.518" valve lift with 1.5:1 ratio rocker arms (0.536"/0.552" with 1.6:1 rockers) on a 111 LSA, installed at 107 ICL
Their description:
Basic guidelines (These are not absolutes, just guidelines to help you get close on a cam choice)
Use: First step in mild street performance such as HP restoration engines
Idle: Smooth to noticable
Vacuum: Fairly high
Converter: Stock to mild stall
Rear gear: 3.00 to 3.55
Benefits: Good idle, resto/cruiser. Hot daily driver.

Link:
http://www.hughesengines.com/Index/...c2VkIERlY2sp&level1=Q2Ftc2hhZnQ=&partid=30253

 

[4mulas]

You just said you liked it way better when it was stock, I think the solution for you is a stock magnum camshaft ?

 

[PRHeads]

Crower 271HDP

 

[pnora]

Get the electrical system up to snuff. Also make sure the booster is not leaking. You can also install a reserve vacuum can with check valves. Seems like you like the car when it is running decent so to me getting it fixed in the other aspects is a no brainer. Going to manual brakes is another option.

 

[pnora]

Check your booster. If it is not right that pump will run continuously.
Q: How do I test my vacuum power brake booster
Vacuum Brake Booster Testing and Diagnosis

Minimum engine vacuum required is 18”HG at idle in gear.

You will need a vacuum pump with a gauge to perform this procedure. Most “chain” parts stores will rent, loan or sell them.

1) Remove vacuum hose from check valve on booster. Place hose from vacuum pump onto check valve and draw booster to 20”Hg of vacuum.

2) Let booster sit with vacuum applied for 5 minutes. Vacuum should remain steady at 20”Hg. If vacuum does not stay steady at 20”Hg the booster it is faulty and will need to be replaced. If vacuum does hold steady at 20”Hg proceed to step 3.

3) With 20”Hg of vacuum in booster depress brake pedal once and release it. The booster should transfer SOME but not ALL of the vacuum. Depending on how hard the pedal is depressed it is normal to see a 5-10”Hg drop in vacuum. The most important thing is to ensure that the booster does transfer SOME vacuum but does NOT transfer all of the vacuum in its reserve. If vacuum remains at 20”Hg OR goes to zero the booster is faulty and will need to be replaced. If vacuum transfer is within the above range proceed to step 4.

4) Once again draw booster down to 20”Hg of vacuum. Depress brake pedal and hold down for 30 seconds. You should see the vacuum gauge drop slightly and then hold steady. Vacuum should stay steady as long as you are holding the pedal down. If vacuum drops while pedal is being held down the booster is faulty and will need to be replaced.

 

[ZR9B]

I have bounced around "low vacuum " cams for a bit. I bought an edelbrock rpm cam from a member here( I will look up part # at your request).....but 13 lbs vacuum, it will spin the cooper cobra tire silly and is so far ...fun.

 

[junkpile]

451mopar thank you.
o.k. let me clarify something. the wiring is all new with electronic ignition. I was and am still running a vacuum resvoir/can with a check valve and guage. the engine will only make 8" of vacuum at idle in gear off the manifold. The can will hold 21" of vacuum but after a few pumps of the pedal in traffic its vacuum is so low i have a hard pedal and no feel with the brakes. The can will hold the 21" vacuum without bleeding out even after walking away for an hour. I installed a Leed "bandit" pump that now makes 25" vacuum, still no leaks and great breaks every time in need them. Im pulling the power source from the battery thru a keyed on relay to operate the pump. they system works very well the pump kicks on when the vacuum get below 17" and within seconds i have 25" again. its just at night with the headlights and the brakes the amp meter is always running high in the charge range until the pump gets to 25" vacuum and shuts off. I would like to put the system back to more of a stock set up running off the manifold vacuum to the can then to the booster. In order to do this I need to change the camshaft to gain vacuum. This should make the car more street friendly, tax the electrical system less.

 

[junkpile]

I have bounced around "low vacuum " cams for a bit. I bought an edelbrock rpm cam from a member here( I will look up part # at your request).....but 13 lbs vacuum, it will spin the cooper cobra tire silly and is so far ...fun.

yea what part number?

 

[slepr1]

I've had that exact cam and even larger 509 cam in my 440 with no vacuum issues. Now I run a Hughes cam that is crazy and still no issues. Lucky me I guess. I would recommend calling up Hughes and asking them for a cam recommendation. They are a sponsor here.

 

[junkpile]

I've had that exact cam and even larger 509 cam in my 440 with no vacuum issues. Now I run a Hughes cam that is crazy and still no issues. Lucky me I guess. I would recommend calling up Hughes and asking them for a cam recommendation. They are a sponsor here.

o.k. thanks I will try that.

 

[68Moparmaniac]

Lobe separation is key to vacuum the more lobe separation the more vacuum 110-112 is a sweet spot for a lot of builds.

 

[turbine68rt]

You just said you liked it way better when it was stock, I think the solution for you is a stock magnum camshaft ?

Comp 21-305-4.
2000 miles since rebuild. Great so far.

 

[diesel_lv]

What is your initial timing? You can bring your initial up to around 16-18° base timing and get better vacuum. You will have to change your all in timing and advance rate.

 

[1968rt]

If your willing to go mechanical the .528 Mopar is great. Excellent power and drivability.

 

[BSB67]

Crower 271HDP

This, or

Comp 21-305-4.
2000 miles since rebuild. Great so far.

or,

MP 272/.454
Summit 6401
Bob K Cam

All of these will idle stock like, be more power than stock, and your butt meter will not be able to tell the difference between any of them.

If your idle quality is that poor with the 484, maybe you have a vacuum leak........

 

[ZR9B]

Pn 7194

 

[66Satellite47]

Since that is not a "big" cam, can't see how that's the low vacuum problem. Better look for other issues.