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440 engine build

Phil Anderson

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Oct 21, 2011
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I'm doing a build on the 440 engine that came out of my 77 Monaco cop car. I want to build it to be at least as strong as the 440 that was in my 69 GTX. It had a recent rebuild but I want to start from scratch. At this time the block has been bored forty over. I'm looking for some build suggests thanks.
 
If you go into the racers forum, you'll see all kinds of builds for 9,10,11,and 12 second motors
 
I like a tight (.035 to .040") quench distance on these motors. This Combined with a healthy C/R of 10 to 1 or more works well. And cyl head airflow is the single most important item on your performance list. My 451 with ported 915 heads, 13 to 1 C/R, and a 509 cam works for me at 5600 feet. And I need to use 96 plus octane fuel to get it to run well. Use a good intake, headers, and good flowing heads, without going too radical on the cam, and you should have good results. Be ready to boost the octane of your fuel at C/R over 10 to 1. A tight quench will help with pinging problems, and improve the combustion process.
 
I like a tight (.035 to .040") quench distance on these motors. This Combined with a healthy C/R of 10 to 1 or more works well. And cyl head airflow is the single most important item on your performance list. My 451 with ported 915 heads, 13 to 1 C/R, and a 509 cam works for me at 5600 feet. And I need to use 96 plus octane fuel to get it to run well. Use a good intake, headers, and good flowing heads, without going too radical on the cam, and you should have good results. Be ready to boost the octane of your fuel at C/R over 10 to 1. A tight quench will help with pinging problems, and improve the combustion process.

I'll second that on tight quench. If you're using an open chamber head, KB makes a quench dome piston. I like to buy the ones with the extra tall dome and machine them down myself to get the quench perfect.
 
The answer to the ultimate question of how fast you want to go is how much money you got. We need a reference point here. As suggested, go look at all the builds described in the racer forum. My build is in the 12 sec section and is intended to be a true everyday street motor. It was cheap to build, used mostly factory parts (including the intake) and works great.
 
The answer to the ultimate question of how fast you want to go is how much money you got. We need a reference point here. As suggested, go look at all the builds described in the racer forum. My build is in the 12 sec section and is intended to be a true everyday street motor. It was cheap to build, used mostly factory parts (including the intake) and works great.
I agree with Meep It doesn't take a lot of parts and money to make that engine run better than your 69 GTX. Just guessing but your GTX probably was doing good to get in the 13 second quarter mile. ...........................MO
 
If you're looking for a good street motor you might want to avoid the 13:1 compression and the crazy octane expensive fuels. With aluminum heads you would'nt want to go much more than 11.5:1 if your going to drive it on the street. You're going to get a pile of opinions on this topic!
 
If you're looking for a good street motor you might want to avoid the 13:1 compression and the crazy octane expensive fuels. With aluminum heads you would'nt want to go much more than 11.5:1 if your going to drive it on the street. You're going to get a pile of opinions on this topic!

Both ratios are wrong for the street. if it's a race engine there's no cheaper HP builder than compression, the more the better. If it's a street motor make run on pump. Depends on the heads and cam. Small cam and factory heads 9.5-1 is all you can go. Aluminum heads big cam 11.0-1 will fly.
Doug
 
I plan on building a 440 this summer. Will use Performer RPM heads, M1 intake, and 12.5 to 1 C/R. This motor will see dual duty street/strip. Haven't decided on a cam yet, but a .550 lift and 245-250 degrees intake duration at .050 should work well.
 
I plan on building a 440 this summer. Will use Performer RPM heads, M1 intake, and 12.5 to 1 C/R. This motor will see dual duty street/strip. Haven't decided on a cam yet, but a .550 lift and 245-250 degrees intake duration at .050 should work well.

I built a similar combo a few years ago. We used a 850 Holley, .590 MP solid ,4.56, 8" converter. 69 GTX all steel exc 6 pack hood, battery up front, factory water pump full stock bench interior. Street drives fine.
11.0 any where, 10.80 in good air. 12.5 is race gas territory. If I had to do it over I'd advance the cam to 102 and bump it to 13.5. It'll still run on 110
Doug
 
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