440 engine won't idle

[Ironbuilt]

I've only had the car a few weeks and I had it shipped to me from Wisconsin. Again I'm not sure how long the car had been sitting but it's in really good shape body wise, no real rust or Holes, when it got dropped off it did need a jump start to get it going and I put it on a charger and the battery holds the charge because it'll turn over and the interior lights come on when I open the door and put the key in the ignition, it just won't stay running without it being continuously fed gas. As soon as I take my foot off the gas it starts sputtering and then dies.

I would start with the assumption that the car has been sitting for a LONG time. Start by draining ALL of the old gas. Drain into a clean bucket and look for sediment and/or debris. If the gas is relatively clear, change the fuel filter and add clean, fresh gas. Next, get a can of quality carb cleaner and clean both carbs thoroughly. Remove air/fuel mixture screws and clean the screws and the holes. Clean all linkage and check for free operation. Install mixture screws until the seat, don't overtighten. Next, back them out 1 1/2 turns each to start. Crank engine to start and check idle rpm. Adjust idle screw to roughly 900 RPM idle in park. If the car idles decent and the throttle response is good, problem possibly solved. If idle is still bad, or won't idle at all, check timing, in Park at 1000 RPM. Disconnect the vacuum advance line and plug, if so equipped. Set initial timing somewhere in the ballpark of 14 degrees to start. Check idle again. If still not good, check plugs, wires, cap, rotor, etc. If still an issue, check coil. I could go on for pages, but now at least you have a map of sorts of where to start.
Post pictures and good luck.

 

[Ironbuilt]

Here's a great PDF to help you with timing.
http://www.tvmoparclub.com/files/tech/Mopar Timing.pdf

 

[CaptainAtom]

Hey much appreciated for all the help everyone. I'll be sure to post an update and pictures and video soon. Again thanks for all the help.

 

[NoCar2023]

Some good info to start with....basics.

 

[NoCar2023]

 

[oldbee]

All good suggestions,but, check choke operation first! Could be that and/or bad gas.

 

[threewood]

I would start with the assumption that the car has been sitting for a LONG time. Start by draining ALL of the old gas. Drain into a clean bucket and look for sediment and/or debris. If the gas is relatively clear, change the fuel filter and add clean, fresh gas. Next, get a can of quality carb cleaner and clean both carbs thoroughly. Remove air/fuel mixture screws and clean the screws and the holes. Clean all linkage and check for free operation. Install mixture screws until the seat, don't overtighten. Next, back them out 1 1/2 turns each to start. Crank engine to start and check idle rpm. Adjust idle screw to roughly 900 RPM idle in park. If the car idles decent and the throttle response is good, problem possibly solved. If idle is still bad, or won't idle at all, check timing, in Park at 1000 RPM. Disconnect the vacuum advance line and plug, if so equipped. Set initial timing somewhere in the ballpark of 14 degrees to start. Check idle again. If still not good, check plugs, wires, cap, rotor, etc. If still an issue, check coil. I could go on for pages, but now at least you have a map of sorts of where to start.
Post pictures and good luck.

Absolutely. I will add that my perfectly running 318 had the same issue after sitting in the side yard for a few months during the summer. Ran rough and would not idle where I had it set previously. Changed the fuel filter, plugs, cap/rotor without changing the problem. Messed with the mixture screws and found the pass side screw did nothing, even when removed. Pulled it out with the car running at fast idle, blew compressed air into the passage and immediately felt vacuum through the hole and the idle picked up, re-inserted the mix screw and the problem was solved.

Edelbrock carbs also have small, fine screens inserted before the seats in the fuel supply. They will get gummy and need to be cleaned too.

 

[coloradodave]

Agree with oldbee. If there isn't at least one choke, or they aren't operating correctly (not setting or completely closing) that could explain the problem. You may need to keep "jazzing" the throttle for 3-4 minutes to get it to idle. BTW, OP never mentioned 'tunnelram manifold'.

 

[Garys1969RR]

Turn the idle speed screws up until it idles evenly on both carbs. Then rotate your distributor forward until it starts to run rough, then back it up a little. it should speed up as you advance the timing. Then adjust all 4 idle mixture screws for highest idle speed. Then drop idle speed screws back down to an even idle speed of 900 to 1000 RPM. It takes some experimenting to get it close, but you prob wont hurt anything just adjusting idle speed and mixture screws. Then report back to headquarters. LOL