440 Head Gasket Advice

[lewtot184]

having never seen a "blow" exactly like this i have to wonder if there were other issues (other than this gasket) that may have doomed any gasket.

 

[gkent]

Yes a retail customer disclaimer. For DIY'ers.

Well, I know a good number of engine builders in southern Ontario ... and none of them will use Cometics without the proper finish. Anyhow, if you're going to offer advice you should probably err of the side of caution. No doubt you'll get the last word in so as not to loose this debate but I've said my piece.

 

[Geoff 2]

Couple of comments:
- beware of 'look-a-like' ARP fasteners. I received some in a kit from a well known Mopar supplier & they used ARP tq numbers for tightening. I contacted ARP & they said if the fastener is NOT engraved with ARP, it is not an ARP fastener.
- using ARP tq #s on non ARP fasteners might be over-torqueing the fastener.
- I suspect the gasket damage might have been caused fasteners bottoming out. I have had few occasions where aftermarket bolts were too long & bottomed out.

 

[RemCharger]

Well, I know a good number of engine builders in southern Ontario ... and none of them will use Cometics without the proper finish. Anyhow, if you're going to offer advice you should probably err of the side of caution. No doubt you'll get the last word in so as not to loose this debate but I've said my piece.

I agree. Proper inspection of the surface is important.

 

[Mopar Hunter]

Why not use head studs?

 

[lewtot184]

the gasket blowing/flame cutting directly to the bolt is suspicious to me. flame cutting directly into a water passage is very odd to me.

 

[Lefty71]

Why not use head studs?

For sure, I agree. But what is most important (and I guess I should have said more bluntly to start with), is the root cause of the damage must be located and remedied. This is way more important that WHOS parts you use to put it back together with. Many good tips passed along by the members here, but you've got to know for sure what happened in this unusual situation.

 

[Rebelrouser]

Welcome. The fact that you indicated the engine got hot a few times could say something about the gasket failure. Check surfaces for warpage first. What bolts are you using ? What did you apply to the threads ? Did you use proper fastening/torque technique during installation ?

They are all-metal. No composition to "decompose ".
There will always be talk about surface finish, but in reality, they are a 3 PC steel shim gasket. With a better sealing surface than the originals.
Just about every BBD at our track uses them with or without deck resurfacing.
I've used them, re used them, and re used them again.
Would have to be a pretty rocky deck surface before I say no.

They are stainless steel, which is very tough, but a head gasket is also supposed to conform to slight irregularities as well. The makers of the gaskets require a very smooth finish, because of the fact that stainless steel is so hard it does not conform. Old muscle car engines were not machined to the spec required. Multilayer steel gaskets were developed because of the scrubbing action of an aluminum head on an iron block. Back in the 80's and 90's I changed enough head gaskets to put my kids through college for that very reason.
I think you get best results by following manufactures recommendations. Best head gasket for older engines is a copper gasket, if again installed the correct way. Top Fuel still uses copper gaskets, money is not object with them, so it has to be good right?

 

[mountain33]

Would copper coat help him on this problem?

 

[1 Wild R/T]

As others have stated the root cause has to be pinpointed... The fact the gasket blew at the bolt points to the bolt either not getting torqued which I doubt or possibly the bolt is to long & bottomed in the hole... Something prevented it from applying compressive force directly below the bolt...

The fact the gasket blew in a second location may indicate the bolt at that location was bottomed out too... Screw the bolts into the block & measure the exposed length & compare it to the head thickness at the bolt hole boss...

Those PT gaskets don't give many problems & the failure is odd... Also clean the deck throughtly, stone it off & check the deck with a machinists straight edge... I'd suggest have the heads surfaced, aluminum doesn't like being exposed to a blow torch...

 

[mikerman]

Was the blocked decked when you built it or just bored? Cometic need a specific deck and head surface finish to work properly. If you didn't have this finish done, forget about Cometics. For Trick Flow head bolts, call ARP directly - they know their **** and will help you out.

Did up 440 not stroked,but similar build.
Don't know how you came up with your c.r. without a parallel deck on block. I used Arp head bolts, .027 Cometics. No heat problems. Had custom 4 core rad built on stock upper tank. Big money, but maintains stock appearance.

 

[gtxrt]

i like mahle graphite head gaskets

 

[lewtot184]

something that would worry me is the flame cut into a main water passage by #1 cylinder. that would have to pull in a lot of water and what prevented the engine from locking up? i think everything has to come apart for inspection. especially pay careful attention to bent rods and bound up wrist pins. piston ring grooves may have taken a hit too.