440 Internal or External Balanced
- Thread starter BMosely
- Start date
In trying to sort through your information; it sounds like you've recognized the original crank as cast, with "440" on the counter weight.
Is your new crank identical? If not, then it's forged.
As mentioned , a dial indicator on the end of the crank is the best method of measuring.
OK, it's identical, cast. But is it externally balanced?
1 Wild R/T
Well-Known Member
No, all 440 cast are externally balanced... And use the same external damper & torque convertor/flywheel...
Additional information;
Stock flexplates are all neutral ( internal) balanced.
The torque converter needs the weight for a cast crank ( external).
We don't know what you're building, but you can get an external balance one, so you don't need the weight. Good if you're swapping neutral balance converters.
There is only one stock balancer for a cast crank externally balanced crank. It says cast 440 on it.
You should have it from the motor.
Stock flexplates are all neutral ( internal) balanced.
The torque converter needs the weight for a cast crank ( external).
We don't know what you're building, but you can get an external balance one, so you don't need the weight. Good if you're swapping neutral balance converters.
There is only one stock balancer for a cast crank externally balanced crank. It says cast 440 on it.
You should have it from the motor.
What's throwing doubt my way is the thrust bearing I have being too wide. I can as advised carefully sand it down to fit. Another source I read that external balanced 440s started in 75'. That source said the thrust bearings were different in thickness from the early to the latter. Thinner in 74' on back. Wider 75' till 80'. I think I have the older crank, which is internally balanced. I can pick up a used balancer and flex plate reasonably just to be sure of what I have. If wrong it will cost me time to reinstall the bigger balance and flexplate which I have.
Thanks again.
1 Wild R/T
Well-Known Member
The thrust bearing side walls are taller, the bearing isn't wider.... Look at these two caps...
So, unless you have an early block (you don't) it's a non-issue...
Have you tried backing off the center main bolts & tapping the crank fore & aft? If you have and you still lack end-play I have used 600 grit on a flat plate (glass) and WD-40 as lube... to pick up a few thousandths...
So, unless you have an early block (you don't) it's a non-issue...
Have you tried backing off the center main bolts & tapping the crank fore & aft? If you have and you still lack end-play I have used 600 grit on a flat plate (glass) and WD-40 as lube... to pick up a few thousandths...
Did the small diameter bearings come with the new cast crank. Is that what the problem is?
We could reduce the next 4 pages with a few really good pics
It's a reground crank, 020. No, the problem is I have zero end play. The suggestion is to sand the thrust surface of the bearing carefully with 600 carborundum paper wetted with WD40. Rechecking so as not to take too much off.
I'd love to photograph the job, but my computer won't download pictures.
I was under the impression that one of those completely round flex plates, with a semi-circle into it, was all I needed for balance.
There is no measurable clearance between the bearing and the crank. So centering the cap is unachievable. I will consider that upon reassembly.
Similar threads
- Locked
- Locked
- Locked
