440 machine shop rebuild

[Lenny Arsenault]

OK, I have my 65 satillite and I am having a 440 rebuilt from a professional machine shop thats been in bussness for years. I have not ever really had anything other than a stock running motor or muscle car so could use some advice here. My main thing is I want a nice street/strip car that I can drive long distance with if I want to. This is what I have so far 1966 440 short block bored .030 new hypertectic pistons, stock rods, they magnifluxed block, crank, polished crank, new oil pump, pickup tube and 6qt. hemi oil pan, new high performance water pump, I don't have the cam specs. handy so can't realy say what it is for certain but, it is a performance cam for street/strip applications. I also bought some edelbrock RPM Performer heads the shop stripped them down and are checking the seats, valve guide clearences also having some roller rockers installed. I have plans to install a RPM duelle plane Intake manifold with a 750 holley carb, MDS distributer. Question! fuel pump and lines what would be best? I am also going to install some tti headers with the 3" exhaust system.
So! there you have it I am open to all opinions and recommendations. Hope to run somewhere in the mid 12 sec. range. Forgot to mention I presently have 323 gears should I change this or is it doable. Thanks for this great web site I love it.

 

[67 coronet]

3/8's fuel line and good quality electric fuel pump for sure.try the gears and see how you like it.dont cost any money to try what you have and driving styles very a bunch.
to get optimum drivability you should match power bands of;
1)camshaft
2)intake manifold
3)torque converter(if auto)
4)carb size
5)exhaust
6)ignition
its all about matching rpm operation ranges for optimum power.then you just need to make sure fuel and such can keep up with you demands.

 

[coloradodave]

Another opinion: New mechanical fuel pump (no noise and no wiring) - Drop exhaust size to 2 1/2" (quieter / cheaper / easier to install / won't notice the difference on a street/strip car) - yes on 3/8" pick-up and fuel lines - Gearing should depend on where your emphasis is (3:23s are great for cruising/touring, but not so great for racing. Also depends on your transmission choice) - Mid 12s would be a stretch with current gearing. Also, I'd choose the transmission/ gearing before buying the carburetor.
And yes, I know, about opinions, but he asked...........

 

[Lenny Arsenault]

I got some new Information on my 440 motor and running gear. The cam is an ultradyne CRB 288/296-10H Dur@050 Int.231 Exh.239
Lift Int. 485 Exh. 507 I have decided to go with the 1-7/8" headers with ther 2 1/2" exhaust the machine shop also recommended this would be a much better driver. I did not mention the motor is also balanced. I did mention torque converter and they told me its best to wait until they get the results from the dyno and then match the torque converter with recomedation from whom ever we get it from, could be aroung 3,000 range. So what do you think so far? I do have another thread here with photo's of my 65 satillite its the black one. I am kind of getting excited about this car. P.S. Hemi leaf springs also with heavier torsion bars just because no good reason so now I would like to know what else I could do to Improve the ET's without hampering the drivability for the street? Thanklsd again everyone for your Input.

 

[Moparsmitty]

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I agree with Dave. You are going to have a tough time getting into the 12s without going to at least a 3.55 or higher gear and giving up a little highway drivability. I have 3.23s in my 64 Belvedere with a warmed over 440 and I doubt that I could break into the 13s. But it's great flying down the freeway.

 

[RustyRatRod]

With no cam or compression specs, yall are peein in a fan.

 

[383man]

I only use 3/8 fuel line and a Firecore 140 Electric fuel pump and it runs 10's with that setup so you will be fine with 3/8 line. There is a guy on Moparts with a 66 Charger that has a 500 (440 stroker) in it and has run 11.60's with 3.23's. You have a lighter car and less eng but you may hit 12's if all works good. If you really want to cruise the highway alot you may want to try out the 3.23's first. I drive the highway all the time with 4.30's and a 30" tire but at 60 mph I turn 3200 rpm. I agree 3.55's or 3.91's are a better gear for drag racing. And some now make a 3.73 gear for Mopars which is a nice street/strip gear. Good luck what ever you decide. Ron

 

[super-bee_ski]

I upgraded my 70 superbee (with the Hemi) to 3/8" lines.
But, many on the site said the 5/16" original (original a 383) was sufficient.
Hmm, the consensus here today is: "Go Big"
I did.
Mother MOPAR put 5/16" on 340s, 383s and 440s.
But: 440 six-packs and Hemis received 3/8" (I wonder what a 63-64 Max Wedge had?)
Anyway, I bought mine from "Fine Lines". Comes with clips etc.
BUT: Remember: Hemi cars have 3/8" to fuel pump and then 5/16" to carbs WTF??

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OK, I have my 65 satillite and I am having a 440 rebuilt from a professional machine shop thats been in bussness for years. I have not ever really had anything other than a stock running motor or muscle car so could use some advice here. My main thing is I want a nice street/strip car that I can drive long distance with if I want to. This is what I have so far 1966 440 short block bored .030 new hypertectic pistons, stock rods, they magnifluxed block, crank, polished crank, new oil pump, pickup tube and 6qt. hemi oil pan, new high performance water pump, I don't have the cam specs. handy so can't realy say what it is for certain but, it is a performance cam for street/strip applications. I also bought some edelbrock RPM Performer heads the shop stripped them down and are checking the seats, valve guide clearences also having some roller rockers installed. I have plans to install a RPM duelle plane Intake manifold with a 750 holley carb, MDS distributer. Question! fuel pump and lines what would be best? I am also going to install some tti headers with the 3" exhaust system.
So! there you have it I am open to all opinions and recommendations. Hope to run somewhere in the mid 12 sec. range. Forgot to mention I presently have 323 gears should I change this or is it doable. Thanks for this great web site I love it.

Sounds like a very nice, well thought out build.
I put the TTIs on my 70 Bee w/ the 426 hemi AND the 63 Dodge Polara w/ the 440 built as a Max Wedge engine
Like Budniks says:
"Fill your library before you fill your garage"

 

[Lenny Arsenault]

That is one nice looking 63 fury

I only use 3/8 fuel line and a Firecore 140 Electric fuel pump and it runs 10's with that setup so you will be fine with 3/8 line. There is a guy on Moparts with a 66 Charger that has a 500 (440 stroker) in it and has run 11.60's with 3.23's. You have a lighter car and less eng but you may hit 12's if all works good. If you really want to cruise the highway alot you may want to try out the 3.23's first. I drive the highway all the time with 4.30's and a 30" tire but at 60 mph I turn 3200 rpm. I agree 3.55's or 3.91's are a better gear for drag racing. And some now make a 3.73 gear for Mopars which is a nice street/strip gear. Good luck what ever you decide. Ron

Hello Ron
I think you have a beautifull looking car there can you tell us about the engine build in it and specs.? I am just curious what it takes to run down in the 10 sec. ET's. I'm sure I don't have your kind of engine build so I think the standard stock fuel pump brand new should be OK with 3/8" lines. One other member says to run 5/16" from the fuel pump to the carb is this a good idea?
I believe for now I will run the 3.23 gears to see how I like it and maybe even buy a seperate pumpkin setup with lower gears but, I understand it does change the whole intention of the original build by doing this if I go to a lower gear. I'm thinking cam,torque coverter and all will this also need to be changed or can it be left alone? I think I have to many idea's running through my head I just need to focus on the engine for the time being. One more thing belts and pully's should I invest in a nice belt and pully system with a more positive grip like a cog if they make them or just stay stock? Thanks for the responce here guys it is much appreciated Lenny

 

[383man]

Hello Ron
I think you have a beautifull looking car there can you tell us about the engine build in it and specs.? I am just curious what it takes to run down in the 10 sec. ET's. I'm sure I don't have your kind of engine build so I think the standard stock fuel pump brand new should be OK with 3/8" lines. One other member says to run 5/16" from the fuel pump to the carb is this a good idea?
I believe for now I will run the 3.23 gears to see how I like it and maybe even buy a seperate pumpkin setup with lower gears but, I understand it does change the whole intention of the original build by doing this if I go to a lower gear. I'm thinking cam,torque coverter and all will this also need to be changed or can it be left alone? I think I have to many idea's running through my head I just need to focus on the engine for the time being. One more thing belts and pully's should I invest in a nice belt and pully system with a more positive grip like a cog if they make them or just stay stock? Thanks for the responce here guys it is much appreciated Lenny

Thank you for the kind words Lenny. The easiest thing for me to do is post this link to my 63 on the 62 to 65 website. If you go to the bottom of the page is has the new 493 eng build. It is a pump gas eng as it will run fine on 92 pump as I built it that way and I race it thru the full exh. I can also tell you my sons Dart has a 400 in it with 10.6 comp using Eddy RPM heads and the MP .557 cam. With 3.91's he has run 11.45 @ 117 still using the original 40 year old 5/16 fuel line. He has had 3/8 for about 3 years but just has not got around to putting it on but its still pulling hard thru the traps. Thanks again for the kind words about my car. If I can help with any more info on my car just ask anytime. Ron

http://www.1962to1965mopar.ornocar.com/mmo82008.html

 

[67 B-body]

OK, I have my 65 satillite and I am having a 440 rebuilt from a professional machine shop thats been in bussness for years. I have not ever really had anything other than a stock running motor or muscle car so could use some advice here. My main thing is I want a nice street/strip car that I can drive long distance with if I want to. This is what I have so far 1966 440 short block bored .030 new hypertectic pistons, stock rods, they magnifluxed block, crank, polished crank, new oil pump, pickup tube and 6qt. hemi oil pan, new high performance water pump, I don't have the cam specs. handy so can't realy say what it is for certain but, it is a performance cam for street/strip applications. I also bought some edelbrock RPM Performer heads the shop stripped them down and are checking the seats, valve guide clearences also having some roller rockers installed. I have plans to install a RPM duelle plane Intake manifold with a 750 holley carb, MDS distributer. Question! fuel pump and lines what would be best? I am also going to install some tti headers with the 3" exhaust system.
So! there you have it I am open to all opinions and recommendations. Hope to run somewhere in the mid 12 sec. range. Forgot to mention I presently have 323 gears should I change this or is it doable. Thanks for this great web site I love it.

Putting together a good combo doesn't start with miss matched engine components for a desired Mid 12 second car that doubles as a highway cruiser..
I wonder how you came up with the engine combo as it is? Is this a planned engine build with things like vehicle weight, gearing, trans type, converter stall, etc etc all in mind?
You really need to plan a build around expectations, then buy the appropriate parts to accomplish this goal....
In other words "for example" I wouldn't have a 4,000 lbs car with an engine that needs to turn 7,000 rpm for peek power and a dual plane intake while running a set of 3.23:1 gears and an 4,800 RPM converter to get the low torque challenged pig "camshaft dictated" out of the hole and heating up the trans while the converter slips like crazy while cruising down the road at 2500 rpm...... BAD COMBO..
What I would do however, is determine the average "ideal" cruising RPM and track shift points" then consider what type of engine combo would best provide this "best of both worlds" arrangement. This is where comp ratio, camshaft profile, cyl heads, exhaust type, ign system, etc, comes to play.
Next determine if your combo will meet the goals you set out to accomplish..... "ET, Drive ability"
This in short is what "typically" is required for good combo builds....

Suspension and other factors are to be considered as well....

Good luck........

 

[Lenny Arsenault]

WoW! 67 B-body you really have a pleasent personality huh! I just asked for opinions not sarcastic replies so you must think the opinions I got from all other senior members here don't know much about what they are talking about. By the way knuclehead there is member here that runs down in the 11 sec. range with 3.23 gears so it is possible and im sure my combinations are not as far fetched as you think. You know what I think I think you and Rustyratrod both really run Chebbies.

 

[67 B-body]

WoW! 67 B-body you really have a pleasent personality huh! I just asked for opinions not sarcastic replies so you must think the opinions I got from all other senior members here don't know much about what they are talking about. By the way knuclehead there is member here that runs down in the 11 sec. range with 3.23 gears so it is possible and im sure my combinations are not as far fetched as you think. You know what I think I think you and Rustyratrod both really run Chebbies.

Wasn't meant to be offensive or sarcastic....... You just need the correct COMBINATION to do it..... not an engine built with piston X and a cam that may or may not work well with that piston / head combo, then a dual plane intake that is made for low RPM gains with that cam, then 3.23 gears that keeps RPM low at cruise speeds and overheat a trans do to the required stall speed of the camshaft power band.... Just letting you know what it takes....... You did ask... Don't be offended by the seemingly short words,,, it's just coming across that way because it's to time consuming to type as a person would speak...

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Oh I don't own a Chebbie.... but I have,,,,, and I raced late models with chebbie engines I built for that purpose... I'm not one offended by other brands.... They all have there make / model that fits the bill nicely...

 

[RustyRatRod]

Seems to me everybody here was trying to help you. My peein in a fan comment was before you went back and included info. When you ask for advice, we shouldn't have to pull teeth to get info. I am growing tired of that and I am not going to offer help anymore unless someone gives up the info off the bat. This is it for me. There are people on here who are professional engine builders that take time out of their day to give people FREE advice. Try going to a high dollar attorney and getting something free. My comment was simply to try to coax some more info from you, nothing more. So you throw out insults and are low enough to insult me indirectly through another member. That was pretty chickenshit. I don't really care about me, but we have some good people here who don't deserve that.

WoW! 67 B-body you really have a pleasent personality huh! I just asked for opinions not sarcastic replies so you must think the opinions I got from all other senior members here don't know much about what they are talking about. By the way knuclehead there is member here that runs down in the 11 sec. range with 3.23 gears so it is possible and im sure my combinations are not as far fetched as you think. You know what I think I think you and Rustyratrod both really run Chebbies.

 

[Lenny Arsenault]

Ok, so maybe Im asking to much here I really don't know for sure never raced on a track before and if I have to deal with guys like you I probably will think twice. Like I said it is going to be mainly a driver I am not going to live on the track like you and you know what I really can't deal with knucklehead engineers with smartass attitudes so I guess I will stay of this website for now see ya!

 

[sublimegtx]

hthedrama::stop::eusa_doh:Can't we all just get along :headbang: it's easy to misinterpept what is said when it's typed as opposed to spoken.

 

[67 B-body]

hthedrama::stop::eusa_doh:Can't we all just get along :headbang: it's easy to misinterpept what is said when it's typed as opposed to spoken.

Well,,, I tried to explain that too, but I think it fell on deaf ears..... Or perhaps eyes in this case???
I agree with you........

 

[fatecaptured]

Seems to me everybody here was trying to help you. My peein in a fan comment was before you went back and included info. When you ask for advice, we shouldn't have to pull teeth to get info. I am growing tired of that and I am not going to offer help anymore unless someone gives up the info off the bat. This is it for me. There are people on here who are professional engine builders that take time out of their day to give people FREE advice. Try going to a high dollar attorney and getting something free. My comment was simply to try to coax some more info from you, nothing more. So you throw out insults and are low enough to insult me indirectly through another member. That was pretty chickenshit. I don't really care about me, but we have some good people here who don't deserve that.

Well I hope yal (engine builders) don't stop taking time to help us guys out. I know I don't know my cam spec's and cc's and all that. I too have asked the question that was missing half the parts. Mostly cause I didn'd know better. I do now since I been reading almost everyday on here.

Maybe we should have a format or something we can type in the specs so that way enough information is being presented. It's too bad that people get out of sorts and get into quarrels. This site rock's and we have allot of talented and knowledge for free. It can be frustrating for both the experienced and novice.

 

[451Mopar]

I got some new Information on my 440 motor and running gear. The cam is an ultradyne CRB 288/296-10H Dur@050 Int.231 Exh.239
Lift Int. 485 Exh. 507 I have decided to go with the 1-7/8" headers with ther 2 1/2" exhaust the machine shop also recommended this would be a much better driver. I did not mention the motor is also balanced. I did mention torque converter and they told me its best to wait until they get the results from the dyno and then match the torque converter with recomedation from whom ever we get it from, could be aroung 3,000 range. So what do you think so far? I do have another thread here with photo's of my 65 satillite its the black one. I am kind of getting excited about this car. P.S. Hemi leaf springs also with heavier torsion bars just because no good reason so now I would like to know what else I could do to Improve the ET's without hampering the drivability for the street? Thanklsd again everyone for your Input.

Sounds like your machine shop has you covered pretty well. The RPM intake is pretty tall, so i hope you have a hood scoop?
From the general parts listed, I would guess around 10:1 compression and around 520 HP?

 

[67 B-body]

Sounds like your machine shop has you covered pretty well. The RPM intake is pretty tall, so i hope you have a hood scoop?
From the general parts listed, I would guess around 10:1 compression and around 520 HP?

How did you calculate that? I don't think there was a part number given to identify the pistons, nor the version of heads "chamber size"...
It doesn't say if the block has been decked...... Is it a zero deck height? what are the installed height of the pistons? It could be 8.5:1, 9:1 10:1???? No way to tell from the listed items at all....
A form of sorts would be great for guys to list item description and manufacture part numbers, along with machine work performed for a particular engine build discussion....