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440 red line?

Back in the day I was running a 70 6 pack engine with the cast 6 pack intake and mild cam dynamics hydraulic 294/304 501/526 lift and it spun to 6500 constantly and pulled to 6800 if needed in 1st gear. It didn't get beat out of the hole with the 410s. Stock heads, short block and valve train. So in short the 440 is a stout engine. I even had a different combo with cast crank and tunnel ram that went to 7000 a few times all be it by accident but it lived with no ill effects.
I think the 440 is a strong motor. I take mine to 6300 every time. It's not stock by any means except for rods and crank.550 hp @ 6k. Solid roller assembly al heads and headers. Best time 10.564
 
So 6,300 RPM for a "street" stock stroke 440. When I run my car on the mustang eddy chassis dyno I will post up results. I am really interested in 3 main data results: Torque @ RPM, Horsepower @ RPM (relevant to this thread) and A/F ratio-of particular interest because I have been tweaking my 6 bbl. I am especially curious how accurate my "butt dyno" is regarding RPM and power output because my 440 really seems to want to pull to 6k RPM which seems higher than I would "think" based on some RB motors that have more go fast parts in them. I only know that the cam is a Purple Stripe, but I am leaning more and more towards thinking it is a hotter version than I originally thought.
 
Well get that done and see what the results are. At least you will have a base to look at. Is it a 6 pack motor? I have heard that the bottom end is stronger than a reg 440. Someone here would know that. Not much would be known by your butt feel. You also need to see your A/F reads. Mine took some time to to dial in but the track is the best way to do it. Good luck
 
Well get that done and see what the results are. At least you will have a base to look at. Is it a 6 pack motor? I have heard that the bottom end is stronger than a reg 440. Someone here would know that. Not much would be known by your butt feel. You also need to see your A/F reads. Mine took some time to to dial in but the track is the best way to do it. Good luck
A/F ratio reads are one of the 3 things I listed and I am very interested in. The motor is a 71 440 steel crank motor with a stock short block. 76-78 heads (Trick Flow aluminum 240s on my wish list) Comp Cam hydraulic flat tappet lifters springs locks and 10° retainers on an otherwise stock valvetrain with a Purple Stripe hydraulic cam I suspect is an old school 292.
 
A/F ratio reads are one of the 3 things I listed and I am very interested in. The motor is a 71 440 steel crank motor with a stock short block. 76-78 heads (Trick Flow aluminum 240s on my wish list) Comp Cam hydraulic flat tappet lifters springs locks and 10° retainers on an otherwise stock valvetrain with a Purple Stripe hydraulic cam I suspect is an old school 292.
I shift 6300 but it's a 100% drag car. It actually works to be just under 4000 fpm I have forged Pistons but stock underneath. Performer heads. Comp cam with a 1050 dominator on top. It's not overdone. When I first got the car from a guy in LA the A/F was so rich it burned your eyes and sucked fuel like no tomorrow and would not run under 11 seconds. Just getting the A/F adjustments made a huge difference. It's trial and error one thing at a time and record it. Actually I am still tweaking it. There's a lot to it and it goes far beyond the motor.
 
Well, nothing broke, but my biggest consistent problem at the track today was blowing the tires off. BF Goodrich T/As, grabbed better on most streets than the track today. Track was sticky-I walked it, no water, I would spin my tires once or twice before I would stage (no line lock-yet...). My best run was a .0024 loss against my buddy's Furious Fuschia SRT8 Challenger, my car went 13.99 at 102. Gotta find some traction.
Mickey Thomson Drag Radials. they work
 
try Phoenix I found them to be the best. IMO trial and error used Goodyear and Hoosiers these outshined them,
I used MT drag Radials on my Viper and I liked them. my best Viper et was 11.55 impressive for a stock car
 
Mickey Thomson Drag Radials. they work
Really needed 315/35/17s and I don't recall MTs available in that size. Also, Proxes TQ drag radials have decent looking tread void so IF I should happen to get caught in the rain I won't spin out of control like the Nitto 555s did on my 89 Conquest TSi.
 
Hi,
just reading the post, maybe someone had a slight idea on where my chrarger might redline i ahve stroked 440 - 512 (muscle motors stroker kit) has lunati voodoo cam that states rev range 3800-6500rpm, have ported stealth heads edelbrock dual intake with 2 holley 500 cfm carbs, hydraulic flat tappet with roller rockers, is on a a833 4 speed OD with 8 3/4 3:55 gears with detroit true trac.

i have aftermarket altimeter gauges and the damn thing reads upto 10,000rpm lol so i am not sure where to draw my red line on the gauge, i did rev the engine upto 6300rpm the other day and it sounded like it had lots to go, anyone got anyy ideas?


As you build an engine bigger the same cam will behave milder than in a smaller engine. While your cam might build power to 6500 rpm in a built 383, in a 512 it will be all done in much sooner (lower rpm). That's what makes an engine dyno break-in a nice deal - pretty much lets you know about where the power curve peaks.
 
I just got my Roadrunner back on the road after installing my a833 freshly serviced (again) by Passon. I had a spirited 1st and 2nd gear pull and by "butt dyno" it pulls so strong to 5,800-6,100 rpms there is little doubt that it is making good power. I have my shift light set at 5,800 and my rev limiter set at 6,100 rpms. Eddy mustang chassis dyno test and tune session soon so I can further improve or evaluate the 6 bbl state of tune A/F ratios, and torque and horsepower curves.
 
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