440 ?s

[PP1RT]

Get some of those u haul blankets to protect your paint. If you decide to go headers later you will likely have to lift the motor some when you install them. Leave your front pulley off to gain a little room in front.

 

[mopar 3 B]

Get some of those u haul blankets to protect your paint. If you decide to go headers later you will likely have to lift the motor some when you install them. Leave your front pulley off to gain a little room in front.

If he leaves the pulley and water pump off it will help a lot.
Have even installed them with a tractor and loader. Backhoes work great also. Think a wrecker boom has been used before also.

 

[PP1RT]

If he leaves the pulley and water pump off it will help a lot.
Have even installed them with a tractor and loader. Backhoes

First one i ever did was with tractor and loader. Motor,trans and headers bolted up all in one shot with the neighbors tractor out in the lawn. People told me it wouldnt work with the headers bolted up but it did. Manual steering maybe helped that.

Run with what ya got

 

[threewood]

I placed many a 350 Chebby and a couple 318s. I've always done it as you say. I wasn't sure if the threads on the aluminum intake on the 440 would handle the weight.
It does sound much easier to install the rocker assy and intake onto the motor while it's on the engine stand. Although this motor give my stand all it can handle.

The carb plate is money and plenty strong enough, even aluminum. That's how I did mine.
Install the dipstick tube before droppinv the motor in!!!! A great tip I got before putting mine in.

 

[wyrmrider]

cap the back of the trans with a spare yoke if there is tranny fluid in it
lot's of good suggestions
did you degree your cam? easier on the stand
what rockers?
cam have stock base circle or do you need longer pushrods? do that first too
spin that oil pump with a hex shaft- check the rotation - to pre oil the motor- after you get your filter on
if headers you most likely will have to lift the motor- again

 

[BeeKool]

cap the back of the trans with a spare yoke if there is tranny fluid in it
lot's of good suggestions
did you degree your cam? easier on the stand
what rockers?
cam have stock base circle or do you need longer pushrods? do that first too
spin that oil pump with a hex shaft- check the rotation - to pre oil the motor- after you get your filter on
if headers you most likely will have to lift the motor- again

Rockers are crane 1.5
Know how pre-oil but not sure what degree cam means. Engine long block was assembled at machine shop and it at TDC with #1

 

[beanhead]

Rockers are crane 1.5
Know how pre-oil but not sure what degree cam means. Engine long block was assembled at machine shop and it at TDC with #1

Degree'ing the cam is just the method of checking how it's installed relative to the crank..so you know exactly how things are timed. Cam timing could set up to be advanced or retarded a little, if desired..helpers always seemed to be unavailable for dropping in engines, I have always put at least 1qt ATF in the converter, bolt the trans to the block and adjust the chains so the trans tailshaft points down some and slide it in..I put a jack under the trans to level it. Jack a little, lower the picker a little, repeat... and it settles right in. Hopefully your shop degreed the cam on install, that's best time to do it

 

[BeeKool]

Transmission is already in car.
What's the best fluid?

 

[Cranky]

Many like Ford atf....I like aft+4

 

[mopar 3 B]

If there is no fluid in the trans ATF4. Would go that route even with fluid in it.

 

[BeeKool]

If there is no fluid in the trans ATF4. Would go that route even with fluid in it.

I dumped some Dex/Merc in it before I realized what I was doing.

 

[Cranky]

I dumped some Dex/Merc in it before I realized what I was doing.

Oh no!! It's done for even before you start it up!! If you don't want to use it, just drain what you can.....

 

[wyrmrider]

727 is very tolerant of trans fluid I'd avoid Type F like the plague and also Dex VI which Ford Merc- but it should be OK finish fill with type 4+
the later trans are built with much closer tolerances and are clutch to clutch shifters not clutch- band and they have lock up converters
I posted this B4 your last post- hope it helps
you asked about Trans fluid
The OEM from the 50s early 60's fluid was Type A Sperm Whale Oil
Then GM Dexron all long obsolete
GM does not support Dexron III any more so there is no standard for quality control- lots of cheap crap out there
MOPAR type 4+ is your best bet
It is licensed and the additive package is licensed so if it says 4+ it's a Synthetic with a super premium additive package- much better than Dex III
DO NOT USE DEX VI or later FORD MERCONs
your seals will not like U DEX VI even ate the seals on early 4L 60-80 GM trans till they changed the seals/ thrust washers
The absolutely best ATF is CITGO Quatrosyn It is a group IV-V base Synthetic whereas the earlier 3+- 4+ date from the mid 80s and these base stocks were way too expensive- 4+ was a cost effective solution to the problem of lock up life- synthetic base III based (3+ was group II based)
see
https://www.allpar.com/mopar/transmissions/fluids.html
and the SAE paper
incidentally those of us who also have GM or FORD products the CITGO Quatrosys is best for Everything except Type F- even Volvo and Nissan, and hydrobost etc

 

[mopar 3 B]

727 is very tolerant of trans fluid I'd avoid Type F like the plague and also Dex VI which Ford Merc- but it should be OK finish fill with type 4+
the later trans are built with much closer tolerances and are clutch to clutch shifters not clutch- band and they have lock up converters
I posted this B4 your last post- hope it helps
you asked about Trans fluid
The OEM from the 50s early 60's fluid was Type A Sperm Whale Oil
Then GM Dexron all long obsolete
GM does not support Dexron III any more so there is no standard for quality control- lots of cheap crap out there
MOPAR type 4+ is your best bet
It is licensed and the additive package is licensed so if it says 4+ it's a Synthetic with a super premium additive package- much better than Dex III
DO NOT USE DEX VI or later FORD MERCONs
your seals will not like U DEX VI even ate the seals on early 4L 60-80 GM trans till they changed the seals/ thrust washers
The absolutely best ATF is CITGO Quatrosyn It is a group IV-V base Synthetic whereas the earlier 3+- 4+ date from the mid 80s and these base stocks were way too expensive- 4+ was a cost effective solution to the problem of lock up life- synthetic base III based (3+ was group II based)
see
https://www.allpar.com/mopar/transmissions/fluids.html
and the SAE paper
incidentally those of us who also have GM or FORD products the CITGO Quatrosys is best for Everything except Type F- even Volvo and Nissan, and hydrobost etc

You have +4 dated to the 1980s where did that info come from? Around here had to go to Chrysler even in 2005 to get ATF+4.

 

[Cornpatch MO]

Haven't decided on exhaust yet.
I figured on installing manifold or headers after the fact

I put my 68-69 HP exhaust manifolds on my 440 in the 64 Dodge. Driver side not to bad, but surprisingly the passenger side was a major PITA. Scratched my newly painted inner fender wells.................................MO

 

[Cranky]

Btw, Walmart (ChinaMart) is about as cheap as I can find +4 around here but they usually do not carry more than 6 or so quarts on the shelf and do not stock it in the back but, there's 2 ChinaMarts within 10 minutes of me so whenever I need to do a change, I start hitting them both and stock up. One girl even called me when they got a new stock delivered. That was nice but wasn't looking for a girl friend at the time....am now though!!

 

[wyrmrider]

You have +4 dated to the 1980s where did that info come from? Around here had to go to Chrysler even in 2005 to get ATF+4.

Some of the links I posted tell the history of post Dex fluids better than I
My 86 Techtran manual states "All 78-86 quipped with a lock up torque converter...A new ATF type 7176 has been released for all...
you are correct about the actual type 4+ there was a lot of confusion as to did it replace 3+ or was just for the then newer vehicles and it was in short supply
you can see from the links that Quality Control is excellent- do the off brands claim to be +4 and meet or exceed the spec or just be +4 "compatible" (which means less than nothing)
Citgo Quatrasyn does not claim to meet the Allison TES 295 spec (or the 4+ spec) but most definitely exceeds both, better low flow than even Dex VI, better Hot and way more service life

 

[wyrmrider]

a couple more quotes for those Dex III fans
Aug 5, 2009 - All DEXRON®-III licenses expire at the end of 2006 and will not be renewed. .

(2) DEXRON® III and DEXRON® VI fluids are no longer approved for use in Commercial OnHighway transmission products and have been removed from the Allison Approved NonTES 295 or NonTES 468 fluids list

GM will say use DEX VI and that it is backward compatible with DEX III- not exactly so and ALLISON, no longer owned by GM - well see above

 

[Cranky]

How does the licensing agreement work with the +4 Am I wrong to think that it's supposed to be manufactured according to the agreement?

 

[BeeKool]

I'm fortunate. Here in the Midwest there are no shortage of Napa, O'Reillys, AutoZone and more farm supply stores than you can shake a stick at.