Then I don't see why not use stock pushrods!!On mine, I have stock rockers & stock 6 pack cam.
Then I don't see why not use stock pushrods!!On mine, I have stock rockers & stock 6 pack cam.
A .5 lift cam with springs to match shouldn't be breaking push rods.....especially a roller.
He didn't say .500 cam, he said "mid" .500, as in .550, cam. I broke Smith Brothers 5/16 pushrod on a .547 lift hydraulic roller. It was a clean break where the bottom of the pin from the cup pressed into the tube. Smith Brothers said they don't know why the tech sold me 5/16" pushrods as they would have recommended 3/8". 440 Source and Smith Brothers both recommend 3/8" on anything over .520 lift hydraulic roller.
Sorry, I get confused sometimes when someone starts a thread and asks for recommendations and then someone else says what they're gonna do.The ramps on a roller cam are faster and more agressive than a flat tappet grind and will put more stress on the valve train components.
If the rocker arm geometry is correct, there shouldn't be any problems running a ball/ball 5/16", .083 wall pushrod on a mid .500 HR cam with roller rockers, especially with the springs Comp recommended for the cam I'm running.
I've used good 5/16" pushrods several times on SBC and SBF HR cams with high .500/low .600 lift cams with zero problems. Those are all ball/ball pushrods.
I've spoken with Smith Bros. on the pushrods and they feel the ball/ball 5/16" .083 wall will be adequate with the springs I'm using, which are 400-ish over the nose. I still need to decide on whether to use any additional oiling through the pushrods-.040 restricted or solid ends.
I deleted my posts so you won't get confused. I'm sure the forum members can do their own research figure out which pushrods will work and why.Sorry, I get confused sometimes when someone starts a thread and asks for recommendations and then someone else says what they're gonna do.
On both sets of Stealth heads I have had, the builder had to clearance for 3/8" pushrods.
Mine had to be opened up with 3/8" pushrods.
Yes. We used stock length ball and cup 3/8” rods with Crane adjustable rockers. All the intakes rubbed on the upstroke, so we didn’t want to take the chance. It did add more time to the build since the heads had to be pulled and re-installed.I used Smith Bros 5/16" thick walled pushrods and I had to clearance the heads because they rubbed. Not much but enough that they left a witness ring around the pushrods. And that was handcranking the engine. I want to say it was close to the base circle. At lift there was no rubbing. Hughes STL3842 cam.