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440 Source heads ??

I’m just a happy 440 source owner reporting my experience so far with them if I may. Out of the box they let looked great, worked fine with stock everything. I’m currently tearing down to put a bigger came. Might want to check the valve seals out, when I pulled the valve cover I noticed part of the metal clip sitting on top of the rocker arm. But I’ve had no issues with them otherwise.

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I believe the only thing we're doing to mine is changing the steel freeze plugs to brass. I was told by an expert, brass ones has less of a chance to weep antifreeze.
 
I took my factory heads off and bolted on 440 Source heads. No hogging out pushrod holes or issues with pushrod length.
 
A .5 lift cam with springs to match shouldn't be breaking push rods.....especially a roller.

The ramps on a roller cam are faster and more agressive than a flat tappet grind and will put more stress on the valve train components.

He didn't say .500 cam, he said "mid" .500, as in .550, cam. I broke Smith Brothers 5/16 pushrod on a .547 lift hydraulic roller. It was a clean break where the bottom of the pin from the cup pressed into the tube. Smith Brothers said they don't know why the tech sold me 5/16" pushrods as they would have recommended 3/8". 440 Source and Smith Brothers both recommend 3/8" on anything over .520 lift hydraulic roller.

Post deleted due to not being directly related to OP question.
 
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The ramps on a roller cam are faster and more agressive than a flat tappet grind and will put more stress on the valve train components.



If the rocker arm geometry is correct, there shouldn't be any problems running a ball/ball 5/16", .083 wall pushrod on a mid .500 HR cam with roller rockers, especially with the springs Comp recommended for the cam I'm running.
I've used good 5/16" pushrods several times on SBC and SBF HR cams with high .500/low .600 lift cams with zero problems. Those are all ball/ball pushrods.

I've spoken with Smith Bros. on the pushrods and they feel the ball/ball 5/16" .083 wall will be adequate with the springs I'm using, which are 400-ish over the nose. I still need to decide on whether to use any additional oiling through the pushrods-.040 restricted or solid ends.
Sorry, I get confused sometimes when someone starts a thread and asks for recommendations and then someone else says what they're gonna do.
 
Sorry, I get confused sometimes when someone starts a thread and asks for recommendations and then someone else says what they're gonna do.
I deleted my posts so you won't get confused. I'm sure the forum members can do their own research figure out which pushrods will work and why.
 
On my 440 source heads, I’m running 1.6 Harland sharps for Edelbrock heads (SHPS70016KE) and 3/8 .080 Manton pushrods. I found that if I used stock geometry rockers ( aka 1.6 crane irons) , I needed to clearance p-rod holes with .550 ish net lift. But with the Eddy style Harland’s I didn’t. Also the geometry and scrub pattern was way better. Geometry with the crane iron rockers sucked with these heads. Geometry sucked with Isky Irons and standard geometry Harland’s too. Bummer that they are nearly a grand at Mancini, maybe Shannon’s can cut you a deal.
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Eddy Harland’s

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Crane Irons

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Isky Irons
 
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On both sets of Stealth heads I have had, the builder had to clearance for 3/8" pushrods.

Mine had to be opened up with 3/8" pushrods.

I used Smith Bros 5/16" thick walled pushrods and I had to clearance the heads because they rubbed. Not much but enough that they left a witness ring around the pushrods. And that was handcranking the engine. I want to say it was close to the base circle. At lift there was no rubbing. Hughes STL3842 cam.
 
I used Smith Bros 5/16" thick walled pushrods and I had to clearance the heads because they rubbed. Not much but enough that they left a witness ring around the pushrods. And that was handcranking the engine. I want to say it was close to the base circle. At lift there was no rubbing. Hughes STL3842 cam.
Yes. We used stock length ball and cup 3/8” rods with Crane adjustable rockers. All the intakes rubbed on the upstroke, so we didn’t want to take the chance. It did add more time to the build since the heads had to be pulled and re-installed.
 
Shop said the second exhaust valve on each head was off center about .020. When the valves were unshrouded the chamber was opened up more. That chamber wound up being about 3ccs off. I had to open the rest to match. Look at the comparison of chambers before CC ing

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