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440 Source vs Hughes stroker kit

I had a 440 based 496 that used a 440 source kit. I used a 6bbl intake, hydraulic roller cam and eddy aluminum heads. It has been a few years since the build and I don't own the car any more, so I don't have the cam specs or recall which heads were used. It was a blast to drive. Below is the dyno sheet.
Publication1.jpg
 
Between those heads, go with 240's as the 270's are "Max Wedge" size and the 6 pack intake will not match the 270's ports. Good luck on build and don't overcam it.

i`d go with the 270`s in a heartbeat , my cnc victor knock offs flow more than trick flow advertises their 270`s at ..
with a 500 plus c.i. stroker , u ain't gonna have any low end problems !! < old saying , "you gotta drive it like a big block chevrolet !!"
 
We typically use Molnar cranks and rods (Chevy 7.100 long rods) and then match them with a dished piston that provides the correct compression ratio. You'll need to use the TF240 heads since the 270 heads will not work with your six pack intake. Keep the cam small or else you'll have lots of issues getting the six pack carbs calibrated. If you build a 505 (440 with 4.250 crank) then I'd stay in the 220 to 230 at 050 duration for the cam. The Chevy 502 crate motor uses a 224/234 hyd roller cam and those engines work great on the street. If you go much bigger than that you'll be chasing carb calibration issues. If you put a single 4bbl or a Holley Sniper on the engine then you can go with a bigger cam since the fuel curve will be easier to play with.
 
Not to step on the thread, but nice to see Andyf back dropping knowledge bombs.
 
We typically use Molnar cranks and rods (Chevy 7.100 long rods) and then match them with a dished piston that provides the correct compression ratio. You'll need to use the TF240 heads since the 270 heads will not work with your six pack intake. Keep the cam small or else you'll have lots of issues getting the six pack carbs calibrated. If you build a 505 (440 with 4.250 crank) then I'd stay in the 220 to 230 at 050 duration for the cam. The Chevy 502 crate motor uses a 224/234 hyd roller cam and those engines work great on the street. If you go much bigger than that you'll be chasing carb calibration issues. If you put a single 4bbl or a Holley Sniper on the engine then you can go with a bigger cam since the fuel curve will be easier to play with.
Spot on. Any plans to write another BB mopar book? :D
 
Spot on. Any plans to write another BB mopar book? :D
My big block book needs an update but the publisher wasn't super interested last time I talked to them. The book came out before Trick Flow introduced their heads so that is the biggest thing that needs to be updated. I've also done a lot of testing with ported intake manifolds since the book was written and I think that topic should be covered. I'd also add a chapter on EFI and I'd probably add a bunch of content around picking a cam as well as some valve train stuff.
The B Body book didn't sell very well so that one is a dead end. I thought it was a good book but I guess the market was too narrow.
 
My big block book needs an update but the publisher wasn't super interested last time I talked to them. The book came out before Trick Flow introduced their heads so that is the biggest thing that needs to be updated. I've also done a lot of testing with ported intake manifolds since the book was written and I think that topic should be covered. I'd also add a chapter on EFI and I'd probably add a bunch of content around picking a cam as well as some valve train stuff.
The B Body book didn't sell very well so that one is a dead end. I thought it was a good book but I guess the market was too narrow.
Maybe they'll see the light. I for sure would buy the updated one. Add that to the other two I have that you did.
 
My big block book needs an update but the publisher wasn't super interested last time I talked to them. The book came out before Trick Flow introduced their heads so that is the biggest thing that needs to be updated. I've also done a lot of testing with ported intake manifolds since the book was written and I think that topic should be covered. I'd also add a chapter on EFI and I'd probably add a bunch of content around picking a cam as well as some valve train stuff.
The B Body book didn't sell very well so that one is a dead end. I thought it was a good book but I guess the market was too narrow.
Ever think of Self Publishihg? Amazon Kindle is a good place for that
 
My big block book needs an update but the publisher wasn't super interested last time I talked to them. The book came out before Trick Flow introduced their heads so that is the biggest thing that needs to be updated. I've also done a lot of testing with ported intake manifolds since the book was written and I think that topic should be covered. I'd also add a chapter on EFI and I'd probably add a bunch of content around picking a cam as well as some valve train stuff.
The B Body book didn't sell very well so that one is a dead end. I thought it was a good book but I guess the market was too narrow.
I have your books, but it seems everyone is going social media these days?
What did you think of the HXL / HXX cam profiles?
 
We typically use Molnar cranks and rods (Chevy 7.100 long rods) and then match them with a dished piston that provides the correct compression ratio. You'll need to use the TF240 heads since the 270 heads will not work with your six pack intake. Keep the cam small or else you'll have lots of issues getting the six pack carbs calibrated. If you build a 505 (440 with 4.250 crank) then I'd stay in the 220 to 230 at 050 duration for the cam. The Chevy 502 crate motor uses a 224/234 hyd roller cam and those engines work great on the street. If you go much bigger than that you'll be chasing carb calibration issues. If you put a single 4bbl or a Holley Sniper on the engine then you can go with a bigger cam since the fuel curve will be easier to play with.
Would you know a cam that would suit my goal?
Funny, I was just talking to a mate today and he brought your name up. Small world.
 
Hi guys I've decided to spend a bit of money on this dust collector I have in the shed (69 Coronet-440 6 pack).
So I'm starting with the engine as it needs a full rebuild and I like either 440 source or Hughes stroker kits. I'm leaning more towards 440 source due to a lot of positive feedback. The car is going to be a 99% steet car mostly due to there is no drag strip within 100s of klms from me, but I want to have a lot of torque so I can blast a few shitty Holden's and fords at the lights. I like the 440-500 kit but if the 512 kit is the same money would it be worth just doing that?
6 pack will be staying as I've just got the carbs redone.
I also don't really know what cam,rockers etc to get. I don't mind spending a little extra for the hyd rollers either.
I will be getting the TF heads aswell. Again don't know whether the 240s or 270s. Again I would like more off the mark power then dyno points.
This is probably pretty basic information for some but I like to get all my ducks in a row before shipping to aus cause it ain't going back once it's here.
Also running a 727 and currently has a TCI torque converter which I believe is about 3500-4000 stall which I'm happy to change to suit the engine application.
I build a few engines for people and have built probably 15 mopar strokers in the last 10 years, 440 source and Ohio crankshaft are the vendors I use. I lean toward Ohio crankshaft on higher performance drag car engines, but have raced the 440 source kits as well, no problems, customer service is good with both companies. And I like the fact that 440 source keeps parts on the shelf if you need something. I am sure Hughes sells decent stuff as well, I don't use them because of an issue with a camshaft I purchased several years ago. Basically I called them after I received it and told them the spring pressures they were recommending were not going to work, they told me I didn't know what I was talking about to run it as they recommended. I did and it went flat, it was not an argument I wanted to win. I was a teacher at a technical college at the time, first thing was the song and dance about proper break-in I told them I had 20 witnesses as I fired the engine in shop class as a demo. Next I paid to have the cam and lifters shipped back to them, they admitted the lobes still good had the indications of proper break-in, but they stiffed me only willing to sell me another one at the same price I paid for the first one, gee thanks.
 
Would you know a cam that would suit my goal?
Funny, I was just talking to a mate today and he brought your name up. Small world.
Porter Racing Heads (PRH on here) is the guy to talk to about cams. I assume you're going with a hyd roller? I don't know what PRH will recommend but I assume something in the 230 range with a wider lobe angle. Maybe 230/236 on 112 or something like that.
 
Porter Racing Heads (PRH on here) is the guy to talk to about cams. I assume you're going with a hyd roller? I don't know what PRH will recommend but I assume something in the 230 range with a wider lobe angle. Maybe 230/236 on 112 or something like that.
Ok cool I will find him and pick his brain.
Yeah going with a roller.
Ok no worries, thanks for the advice. I will see what I can find.
 
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