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440 to 512 stroker or your thoughts please

Bran3481

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I currently have a 440 block at machine shop and has been bored .40 over to clean it up and I am now looking for either a stroker set up or a stroker rotating kit and am looking for advice on the entire engine build from bearings all the way to intake and carb set up. My goal is to make as much HP as I can and still run street but also take to track about 10% of the time The engine will be going into my 1968 charger. I thank all of you for your input in advance
 
I would give knowltons a call in East bethel MN. They have done tons of these and can set you up with everything you need.
 
I currently have a 440 block at machine shop and has been bored .40 over to clean it up and I am now looking for either a stroker set up or a stroker rotating kit and am looking for advice on the entire engine build from bearings all the way to intake and carb set up. My goal is to make as much HP as I can and still run street but also take to track about 10% of the time The engine will be going into my 1968 charger. I thank all of you for your input in advance

I wrote a whole book on that subject. https://www.amazon.com/Build-Max-performance-Mopar-Blocks-Design/dp/1934709034/ref=pd_bxgy_b_img_b
 
Just an opinion here, but I would always have my new pistons etc in hand before I had any machine work done. The 512 is a great stroker kit and a great choice. good luck
 
So anything goes, and at any cost, as long as it is legal?
Yes pretty much, looking for something different, I was also looking into keeping my dual carb setup and converting them to fuel injection
 
Street is very subjective. My version of street could be way different from yours. Pump gas, race gas, hyd cam, solid cam, roller lifters, all depends on what you’re willing to live with and how much maint you want to do.
 
Just an opinion here, but I would always have my new pistons etc in hand before I had any machine work done. The 512 is a great stroker kit and a great choice. good luck
Yes correct, Normally that is what I would have done but in my case the block was already .30 over and I had a crack in my valley pan and was unaware, I do not drive the car alot and when I washed the engine water was going into engine and then sitting for a while before I started it again and I developed pitting in the cylinders, we honed at .30 but it didn't clean up and we had to go to .40
 
Street is very subjective. My version of street could be way different from yours. Pump gas, race gas, hyd cam, solid cam, roller lifters, all depends on what you’re willing to live with and how much maint you want to do.
Yes I agree especially if you have been around engine buulding, I am open to ideas honestly, I am buying everything new once I decide what I am actually doing so I will not be using anything from previous build but the block itself, I thought about pump and in my opinion pump gas is getting worse and worse as far as quality goes so race fuel isn't out by no means, I do not want to tear engine down every year nor do I want to continuously adjust rocker arms every weekend, not afraid to pay for the good stuff at this point
 
Thank you very much!!
With the publishing being in 2009 will this still be up to date for the present times? I only ask because in 10 years technology has come a long ways, I am in no way criticizing just asking a question and if you feel it is worth it I will purchase the book without a doubt

***Edit***
Nevermind I read the reviews and purchased book - thanks again!
 
I currently have a 440 block at machine shop and has been bored .40 over to clean it up and I am now looking for either a stroker set up or a stroker rotating kit and am looking for advice on the entire engine build from bearings all the way to intake and carb set up. My goal is to make as much HP as I can and still run street but also take to track about 10% of the time The engine will be going into my 1968 charger. I thank all of you for your input in advance
Go straight for the 537 combo. 4.500 stroke and some Trick Flow 270 heads, super-victor intAke and a dominator. Keep the compression reasonable at 10:1 and have fun on pump gas or if money is no object, build a twin turbo setup on E85 or M1.
 
Go straight for the 537 combo. 4.500 stroke and some Trick Flow 270 heads, super-victor intAke and a dominator. Keep the compression reasonable at 10:1 and have fun on pump gas or if money is no object, build a twin turbo setup on E85 or M1.
You know I did think about E85 build, that's a really good idea, will have to do some research on that one! Thank you for your time, one last question, what cam would you run in this set up?
 
You know I did think about E85 build, that's a really good idea, will have to do some research on that one! Thank you for your time, one last question, what cam would you run in this set up?
I built a 537 with a Weiand 6-pack intake and Trick Flow 240 heads. The owner wanted something low maintenance so it had a hydraulic roller at 260@050 and about.650 lift. It made 685 on 92 octane. He finally changed the 6 pack out for a super victor and a dominator. It’s over 700hp now on pump 92. My recent 505 build went 788hp with the 270 head. I’d live to do the 537 over with the 270 heads and a solid roller.
 
Bran... what are you thinking for the rest of your combo in your 68. Rear Gears? Converter? Rear Suspension? You said you were running dual quads...what intake is it? I think laying out your plans in those area will help with a engine plan

If you are starting fresh on the assembly go with BBC rod journal and wrist pins vs mopar journals and you won't have to grind as much to get it to fit also a good aftermarket BBC rod will be a little less then a aftermarket mopar set.
 
Bran... what are you thinking for the rest of your combo in your 68. Rear Gears? Converter? Rear Suspension? You said you were running dual quads...what intake is it? I think laying out your plans in those area will help with a engine plan

If you are starting fresh on the assembly go with BBC rod journal and wrist pins vs mopar journals and you won't have to grind as much to get it to fit also a good aftermarket BBC rod will be a little less then a aftermarket mopar set.
I am open for all options
Currently I have a 355 sure grip
2800 stall
Edelbrock Performer rpm intake
2 Edelbrock 600 carbs
Traction bars on the rear but pretty much stock, looking to convert over from drum to disc brakes but no idea on suspension, if you have some ideas on rear suspension I would love to hear them
 
With the publishing being in 2009 will this still be up to date for the present times? I only ask because in 10 years technology has come a long ways, I am in no way criticizing just asking a question and if you feel it is worth it I will purchase the book without a doubt

***Edit***
Nevermind I read the reviews and purchased book - thanks again!

Read the articles on my website if you want the most up to date information. What you're building is very routine for the shop I work with. 4.25 stroke, 7.10 long rods, hyd roller cam, 240 heads, etc. Those engine make 600+ torque and hp. It will have a nice smooth idle and cruise down the road like a stocker. I've helped dyno test a bunch of engines like that recently. We're putting EFI on almost all of the engines built now. The Holley dual Sniper kit would work if you want to stay with your existing intake manifold.

You just need to pick the right cam, compression and timing curve. Stay away from the race car parts and you'll be fine. You don't need race car parts to make 600 hp these days.

http://arengineering.com/tech/
 
I would look at Cal tracs, the other suspensions Ladder/4 link require a lot of cutting and welding. After doing research we bought a 9 1/2" dynamic torque converter that is tight for driving but stalls closer to 4000, I don't know what converter your running but from what you have described i think the 9 1/2 is a better fit..especially with more tq and hp.
Gears will depend on your tire. I love driving with 3.55. If you are wanting to run a 10.5 x29.5 then 4.10. Put a bolt in sprag In the transmission to keep the rear planetary from exploding at the track. It's hard to beat the 4.25 stroke. The heads make the hp. More displacement will make torque. If you are thinking more street then racing a 540 would be my pick. But if you are trying to push the hp a stock block will handle a 4.25 is a safe choice. With Andy's book in your hands...I don't think you will have any trouble getting the engine where you want.
 
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