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440 with 8 bolt crank 4speed to 727 ? How do I do it

luis9995

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Looks like our 440 was built for a 4speed. Wondering if there’s a way to change this to make a 727 fit or if I would need to swap out the entire crankshaft? Let me know. Thanks

IMG_5472.png
 
I can't see what's going on in your picture, the resolution is too low. You may need to pull out a pilot bearing to make room for the torque converter snout.
 
Looks like our 440 was built for a 4speed. Wondering if there’s a way to change this to make a 727 fit or if I would need to swap out the entire crankshaft? Let me know. Thanks

View attachment 1808741
I posted on your other thread. Just take the pilot bearing out of the crank. What is all the gray stuff smeared around the bolt heads? I hope thats not ARP thread lube. If it is take it apart and clean it all off. I use Loctite.
 
Pictures are a little tough to see, but it looks like a "Dakota" roller bearing was pressed into the hub. This was a common fix for cranks that were not finished for a standard .940 pilot bushing. Pull the whole assembly out, and the converter hub will fit.
 
All correct above. Hemi 8-bolt flex plate and remove the 4-speed pilot bearing
 
I posted on your other thread. Just take the pilot bearing out of the crank. What is all the gray stuff smeared around the bolt heads? I hope thats not ARP thread lube. If it is take it apart and clean it all off. I use Loctite.
I’ll ask my dad what kind he put. And what’s wrong with aro if he used it?
 
Pictures are a little tough to see, but it looks like a "Dakota" roller bearing was pressed into the hub. This was a common fix for cranks that were not finished for a standard .940 pilot bushing. Pull the whole assembly out, and the converter hub will fit.
How do I remove that? Asking for my dad
 
How do I remove that? Asking for my dad
If it is ARP moly lube you can wash it off with brake clean or carb clean. You will have to rinse them and blow dry the bolts and the crank holes several times until perfectly clean. Blue loctite on the bolt threads and torque to specs.
 
Use a puller or pack it full of grease and find a snug fitting driver and force it out hydraulically.

Tom
Ok so I marked them in the picture as 1 and 2. my dad says he can remove 1. But how does he remove #2. The outter ring one. Same way you just mentioned? Or is that officially part of the crank?

Also sorry to bug you. And we really appreciate your help! We aren’t experts when it comes to engines. This one is supposedly rebuilt and good condition

IMG_5486.jpeg
 
Ok so I marked them in the picture as 1 and 2. my dad says he can remove 1. But how does he remove #2. The outter ring one. Same way you just mentioned? Or is that officially part of the crank?

Also sorry to bug you. And we really appreciate your help! We aren’t experts when it comes to engines. This one is supposedly rebuilt and good condition

View attachment 1808852
Check with your auto parts stores. Lots of them will loan the tools out.
 
Check with your auto parts stores. Lots of them will loan the tools out.
My dad likely has the tools but does that 2nd outer ring (the more yellowish one) also come out together with it? Or do I need to do something else to get that one out?
 
My dad likely has the tools but does that 2nd outer ring (the more yellowish one) also come out together with it? Or do I need to do something else to get that one out?
Not sure. But it does have to come out.
 
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