493-496 stroker

[Pontus]

Hello.

I am new here at the forum.
Living in sweden and have a gtx 70 440 with 8-3/4 3.55 727trans, power brakes

I am going to build up a new 440 stroker and new some advertise about how to build it up.
Hughes stroker kit 493 0.30" 69block
Edelbrock 60925 84cc
Edelbrock performer rpm intake
Holley 850carb or 950?
Harland sharp 1.5 rockers
High volume oil pume
Pro billet dist
Msd 6al
Compression ratio?


What camshaft should i be use roller solid or hydraulic? and converter? Street driven car and a red light racer on the street, i just want to go around and do burnouts and maybe do a simple strip once or two a year


// Pontus

 

[Kern Dog]

Your list sounds good. The compression ratio needs to be figured to be compatible to what grade of fuel that is available there. THere are some variables but as a general guideline, 10.0 is safe in the USA using our common 91 octane gas. We rate octane differently than other countries so you may look for some type of conversion scale. Here, our octane rating number is determined by averaging the numbers or MON (Motor Octane Number) and RON (Research Octane Number) tests.
Please research this! An engine with too high octane will be a real problem and a difficult one to correct without engine disassembly.
I don't know what kind of motor oil that you have there but in the USA we have been fighting a reduction in critical oil additives that help preserve the engine and prevent early wear. Some call it Zinc or ZDDP. If the available oils in Sweden do not have this, any flat tappet cam is subject to early failure IF that camshaft is anything bigger/more aggressive than stock. A work-around is to add an oil supplement to regular motor oil. It works but adds another step to the ownership and maintenance of the car.
I run a combination similar to what you have listed. I'm at 10.07 compression and run a Mopar Performance solid flat tappet 284/528. A cam I also like is the Comp Cams XE285 HL. It is a modern camshaft with great street manners. I ran that cam in this engine and liked it. Great power, great sound. I had this cam before I learned about the problems we have here with the engine oils. (Reduction of ZDDP) I actually had a cam failure and pulled the engine to put in new rings, bearings and gaskets. I wanted to try a few other things so I switched to a different cam, ported heads, etc.
Remember to install a torque converter that is a proper match to the engine build. Some guys build a rowdy, radical engine and are disappointed because the combination is a poor match. A torque converter that is too tight will engage too quickly, before the engine is getting into the power range. In other words, the more rowdy the engine, the later in the RPM range it makes power. Imagine a car trying to accelerate from a start at idle speed while being in 2nd or 3rd gear. It will buck, sputter and be sluggish until it slowly gets up to speed.
A "looser" converter allows the engine to speed up to the power range before the transmission applies a "load". You CAN get a converter that is TOO loose though. I had a 3000 stall converter in my car that was great at straight line, 1/4 mile type driving but while cruising, it felt loose and slippy. I had another one built by Ultimate Converter Concepts and it is a perfect match for me.

 

[Pontus]

Your list sounds good. The compression ratio needs to be figured to be compatible to what grade of fuel that is available there. THere are some variables but as a general guideline, 10.0 is safe in the USA using our common 91 octane gas. We rate octane differently than other countries so you may look for some type of conversion scale. Here, our octane rating number is determined by averaging the numbers or MON (Motor Octane Number) and RON (Research Octane Number) tests.
Please research this! An engine with too high octane will be a real problem and a difficult one to correct without engine disassembly.
I don't know what kind of motor oil that you have there but in the USA we have been fighting a reduction in critical oil additives that help preserve the engine and prevent early wear. Some call it Zinc or ZDDP. If the available oils in Sweden do not have this, any flat tappet cam is subject to early failure IF that camshaft is anything bigger/more aggressive than stock. A work-around is to add an oil supplement to regular motor oil. It works but adds another step to the ownership and maintenance of the car.
I run a combination similar to what you have listed. I'm at 10.07 compression and run a Mopar Performance solid flat tappet 284/528. A cam I also like is the Comp Cams XE285 HL. It is a modern camshaft with great street manners. I ran that cam in this engine and liked it. Great power, great sound. I had this cam before I learned about the problems we have here with the engine oils. (Reduction of ZDDP) I actually had a cam failure and pulled the engine to put in new rings, bearings and gaskets. I wanted to try a few other things so I switched to a different cam, ported heads, etc.
Remember to install a torque converter that is a proper match to the engine build. Some guys build a rowdy, radical engine and are disappointed because the combination is a poor match. A torque converter that is too tight will engage too quickly, before the engine is getting into the power range. In other words, the more rowdy the engine, the later in the RPM range it makes power. Imagine a car trying to accelerate from a start at idle speed while being in 2nd or 3rd gear. It will buck, sputter and be sluggish until it slowly gets up to speed.
A "looser" converter allows the engine to speed up to the power range before the transmission applies a "load". You CAN get a converter that is TOO loose though. I had a 3000 stall converter in my car that was great at straight line, 1/4 mile type driving but while cruising, it felt loose and slippy. I had another one built by Ultimate Converter Concepts and it is a perfect match for me.

Common grade of fuel in sweden is 95octane and i have always use valvoline vr1 20-50w in my other mopars

91octane in us is 95octane in sweden
93octane in us is 98octane in sweden

I have been looking at this lunati cam and others similar camshaft
https://m.summitracing.com/parts/lun-40230732lk

 

[not so famous bob]

Common grade of fuel in sweden is 95octane and i have always use valvoline vr1 20-50w in my other mopars

91octane in us is 95octane in sweden
93octane in us is 98octane in sweden

I have been looking at this lunati cam and others similar camshaft
https://m.summitracing.com/parts/lun-40230732lk

SOUNDS AWFULLY HIGH TO ME! TOO MUCH $$$

 

[Yatzee]

Hello.

I am new here at the forum.
Living in sweden and have a gtx 70 440 with 8-3/4 3.55 727trans, power brakes

I am going to build up a new 440 stroker and new some advertise about how to build it up.
Hughes stroker kit 493 0.30" 69block
Edelbrock 60925 84cc
Edelbrock performer rpm intake
Holley 850carb or 950?
Harland sharp 1.5 rockers
High volume oil pume
Pro billet dist
Msd 6al
Compression ratio?


What camshaft should i be use roller solid or hydraulic? and converter? Street driven car and a red light racer on the street, i just want to go around and do burnouts and maybe do a simple strip once or two a year


// Pontus

View attachment 511139

Sounds like you're ready to dole out the cash so aside from a crate engine, you may as well go the full distance. Definitely solid roller valve train unless you don't like adjusting the rockers once or twice a year. You'll love the steady but low rattling under the turkey tray and will always know when it's adjustment time. Who the hell wants to break in hydraulic lifters these days when there's a better way to go. Make sure to put a girdle on that beast of an engine, they work wonders for keeping things together. Screw the carb, if your into it this deep cash wise go TBI, you know you want to. Every things better with TBI and you won't have to tinker every Saturday morning with a $ucking carbeurator to get the beast running efficiently. Can't say on the torque convertor, you'll have to supply information to the people that make it for you to get the right performance. It's not as simple as a stall value. And with all that torque and HP you will surely need to beef up that 727 and drive line, or, carry a basket in the trunk to collect the parts left laying on the road.

 

[66Satellite47]

FYI, my '66 Satellite came with a 500" EDE Performer RPM head motor, 10.5 CR, Comp XS274 S solid lifter cam. This cam was very nice on the street. VR 1 oil is fine for this. It ran just fine on the 91 or 92 octane locally available. It had a Turbo Action 17805 ST torque converter. Worked just great! 850 double pumper worked well too. Mine is a 4.10 gear.

 

[Pontus]

Sounds like you're ready to dole out the cash so aside from a crate engine, you may as well go the full distance. Definitely solid roller valve train unless you don't like adjusting the rockers once or twice a year. You'll love the steady but low rattling under the turkey tray and will always know when it's adjustment time. Who the hell wants to break in hydraulic lifters these days when there's a better way to go. Make sure to put a girdle on that beast of an engine, they work wonders for keeping things together. Screw the carb, if your into it this deep cash wise go TBI, you know you want to. Every things better with TBI and you won't have to tinker every Saturday morning with a $ucking carbeurator to get the beast running efficiently. Can't say on the torque convertor, you'll have to supply information to the people that make it for you to get the right performance. It's not as simple as a stall value. And with all that torque and HP you will surely need to beef up that 727 and drive line, or, carry a basket in the trunk to collect the parts left laying on the road.

The 727 is allready done to support up to 650-700hp
I will stick to carburetor because im not in to tbi!
But is just how i should choose the camshaft, i have no experince of a solid, and i need advice so i can get most tq/hp and stil have enough vaccum for the power brakes

 

[Garys1969RR]

If you want a street cam with lots of torque, stick with duration of around 284 or less. The 509 is too much, it has 292 total duration, and wont deliver enough vacuum for power brakes. The XE 274 H worked good in my son's 383. It's a hydraulic. .488/.491 lift. 274 int/286 ex duration. I wouldn't go much more than that. With valve lifts below .500" you are less likely to have valve train problems.

 

[Kern Dog]

I have an adjustable valvetrain in mine and the adjustment holds for quite awhile. I don't have to lash the valves unless I take stuff apart. I may switch back to a hydraulic someday, the advantage of the adjustable rockers on a hydraulic is that you have consistent preload.
My 528 cam has .528 of lift minus the .028 intake and .032 exhaust lash. That is with 1.5 rocker arms. I have 1.6 ratio arms so my lift is still .535 intake .531 exhaust. I have not had any valvetrain problems and I have had several cams with more than .500 lift. I do not race but I do drive the car on road trips with the engine humming at 3000 rpms for hours at a time.
Lift has little effect on vacuum, it is the overlap and duration that kills it.

 

[66Satellite47]

If you want a street cam with lots of torque, stick with duration of around 284 or less. The 509 is too much, it has 292 total duration, and wont deliver enough vacuum for power brakes. The XE 274 H worked good in my son's 383. It's a hydraulic. .488/.491 lift. 274 int/286 ex duration. I wouldn't go much more than that. With valve lifts below .500" you are less likely to have valve train problems.

If you're talking the Mopar 509, that's old school cam technology. The modern stuff achieves the power with much lower duration @.050, hence more vacuum. A big motor will want more lift and the EDE heads easily support .550 lift. It's not the lift that's hard on the valve train it's the RPM. A properly matched .500+ valve train is very durable if you keep the RPM down, 6000 or so. Solid or hydraulic, whichever a person is comfortable with. The Harland Sharp rockers will hold adjustment for a long time on the street.

 

[440fish]

FYI, my '66 Satellite came with a 500" EDE Performer RPM head motor, 10.5 CR, Comp XS274 S solid lifter cam. This cam was very nice on the street. VR 1 oil is fine for this. It ran just fine on the 91 or 92 octane locally available. It had a Turbo Action 17805 ST torque converter. Worked just great! 850 double pumper worked well too. Mine is a 4.10 gear.

Have the same cam in my 493. Good street manners and really pulls on top! I have the 74cc heads based on the recommendation of the engine builder for better squish. No pinging on pump fuel. Hogwash on the "constant adjusting" of a solid lifer valve train. In almost 5k miles i had mine done and NONE were out of spec. Harland Sharpe are well worth the extra cost....

 

[SlinktRR]

I have the comp xs290 solid flat tappet with 1.7:1 rockers and it's kind of small on 500". Great torque curve. that lunati solid roller is too small, go bigger.

 

[Pontus]

Hello again! Building is in progress and what bearings clearence to main and rod Would be the best for a street machine that will see strip maybe one or twice a year?

Pontus

 

[66Satellite47]

Mains at .0025 - .0030 with good bearings, .0025 on the rods again with good quality bearings. See what your builder thinks. Good oil supply is the key to long life.

 

[Pontus]

Yes i have also heard .0025 - .0030 on the mains and .0025 on the rods.
Its always good to listen to other people what they say. Im building it up with my father at home I have clevite bearings! Picture is coming soon!

 

[66Satellite47]

Real Clevite bearings are hard to beat.