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493 strokerRedline

Bones Jackson

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I'm new to Dodges and not sure where I would put the redline on a stroker 440. The stroker kit is from Eagle. I know just about every big block (unless its a full blown race motor) doesnt need to spin above 5,500. But like I said, I'm new to these and am used to shifting 8500 rpm small block chevys. Any opinions or experiences would be appreciated. Thanks,
 
My engine builder told me I could use the 7k rev limiter on the MSD box for mine. Although the best shift point is closer 5900-6000 RPM. Just depends on how well the motor was put together and the parts used. Most BB mopars I see or have had experience with are at or around 5.5k with an idle shift point around 5200rpm.
 
if you are getting a dyno done it will get real close where to shift at. not on the horse power reading but the torque reading.
 
Na, not real interested in dyno numbers. I guess I'll just feel it out this spring, start around 5 grand and see if it keeps pulling. If its out of power by 6 grand I'll shift it lower, no reason in just making alot of noise. Thanks guys
 
I have a 493 in my Duster that I run on the street a good bit and it has eagle parts in it to. Been together for 5 seasons with one freshen up (bearings, rings, gaskets) even though it didn't need it. Probably more than a 1000 passes and a good deal of street miles. I only tell that to try and paint a picture because the engine components have a lot to do with that "redline".

I run 440-1 heads and a .680 roller. I shift at 6800 and in the 1/4 it traps about 7300. Yep it is spinning. Just last weekend it went 9.51 @ 138.7 on drag radials and with the exhaust on.

So you are really going to have to experiment.
 
My 493 has only been in my 63 Sport Fury for going on 5 months. Its a street car that I drive to the track a few times a year. So far I only have 7 passes on it at the track. I use a 440 Source kit with the 4.15 crank and dished pistons for 10.6 comp with Indy EZ heads. Its a solid flat tappet cam and I am sorta like you as I look at my tach but 99% of the time I shift by the feel of how the eng is pulling. But I have pushed it to 6700 before I knew it last time out and it did not go any faster. So I shift around 6000 to 6200 and it traps around 6500 with zero problems so far. I actually plan to gear down some as it dont need to spin alot of RPM because of the torque curve. I have 4.30's with 30 x 9 tires and I drive it on the highway alot turning 3200 at 55 to 60. I really think it may go faster when I gear down to 4.10's or 3.91's. But I would say you most likely wont need to push it past 6000 to 6200. I also have a small 850 DP as I think it would like RPM and go faster with a Dominator or 2 fours. Ron
 
My motor is similar, Indy EZ heads, Indy single plane, 950 dp solid roller cam. I went and put 4:56 gears in it, probably not a great idea. I'm running 31/10.50 slicks. Hopefully I'll stay around 6,000 through the lights.
 
My motor is similar, Indy EZ heads, Indy single plane, 950 dp solid roller cam. I went and put 4:56 gears in it, probably not a great idea. I'm running 31/10.50 slicks. Hopefully I'll stay around 6,000 through the lights.


You may stay just over 6k depending on your shift points and converter slippage. Good luck , Ron
 
You already got it figured out. Your engine will tell you it's redline at the track. Start easy and bring the shift points up. When it gets slower, back it down. Each individual engine will have it's own redline. I know of an all motor, single Dominator, 500ci, on a 4.15 stroke that is pulling 600 RWHP @ 5,500 RPM 675 RWHP @ 6,500 RPM and is still pulling 690 RWHP at 7400 rpm. Where ya gonna shift that one?
 
Its always been trial and error for me, but I think that time on a dyno would be great. I would set my shift point at the time where torque starts to drop-off. Thats where the power is in our Mopes. Chebys spin to 7000 rpm to make power. Mopes make it much lower. Use the torque as your guide.
 
The stroker engine short block can take quite a bit of RPM, the limitations is usually in the valve train you are using. Cam type and valve spring pressures are the major factors.
My current 500" stroked 400 block has seen 7,200 RPM on the chassis dyno. It has a mild solid roller cam, so peak power is around 6,200 RPM. It also has Ti retainers and good valve springs with 275psi seat pressure and around 700 psi @ 0.714" lift.

My 505" stroked 440 is using a comp Hydraulic roller. (street engine), and springs that are 135 psi on the seat, and less than 400 psi open. This engine might only see 5,500 RPM max? (still under construction.)
 
I'm a bit of a techie, so what about a G-force meter? That would tell you when the force of acceleration is starting to fall-off.
 
I am a Nostalgia Nitro Funny car driver. When asked "How many RPM's do we run?" I always answer, "All of Them!"
 
It depends on how long you want to keep it together.With standard internal oil system nothing over 6500rpm.If the block has standard main caps with no girdle or studs stay below 7000rpm.Depending on the heads cnc or not and cam that motor will make power well into the 7000rpm range.Need more details on the motor.
 
Cool. I'm just going to feel it out. I'm new to these engines and was trying to get an idea on how much rpm they can take. Sounds like I'll try shifting around 5-5500 to start and see if it keeps pulling.
 
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