$500- 68 charger

[daytona kid]

Finally figured out the ballast resistor situation. Since I have the conversion engine harness it needed one with 4 wire connections. This one is for a 1974 mopar.

 

[69 GTX]

Good job!

 

[daytona kid]

Started the wiring for the fans. Mounted the relays close to the fans and to hide the wiring it goes thru a grommet into the fender where I'm running the headlight wiring also, all thru a plastic tube.

 

[68Moparmaniac]

Started the wiring for the fans. Mounted the relays close to the fans and to hide the wiring it goes thru a grommet into the fender where I'm running the headlight wiring also, all thru a plastic tube.

View attachment 786858 View attachment 786860

Nice and clean, good job

 

[daytona kid]

Got a lot done lately. Wired up the battery with a ford solenoid. Also put some 1.5" lowering blocks on. I like it better sitting down a little from where it was, and it'll come down a tad more when I finish adding parts/fuel/weight. I'll probably have to do a small amount of trimming/tweeking on the well lips in a couple of spots to keep the tires from rubbing.. Next I'll be finishing up the e-fan wiring and then the fuel pump. I'm planning on having manual switches for both of those.

 

[showard]

Love those wheels!

 

[daytona kid]

Finished the fan wiring.

 

[daytona kid]

Fuel pump wiring done. I situated the relay and breaker/fuse like I did on the e-fans, with the shortest wires possible, close to the power source. I'm keeping the manual toggle switches locations a secret.. ha!.. I also did a test/check and flipped the lights switch on, and the tail, side markers and dash all worked fine. Funny, I guess it's about time to get a key made, I haven't ever had one for it.

 

[showard]

It's starting to come to life.

 

[daytona kid]

I'm about to put the fuel cell back in for good but before that, one last thing I've been wanting to do was spray some rubber/under coat under the dutchman and package tray on the seams. That was tricky to keep from making a mess.

 

[daytona kid]

I have debated over what shifter to get and finally got this one. 1st thing I did was paint over the billboard cover.

 

[747mopar]

Lots of progress since the last time I checked in and looking awesome
Getting close now!

 

[daytona kid]

Got these today.. Just got one set for now and will get another later for passenger side.

 

[daytona kid]

You can't really tell in the 1st pic but as I mentioned I've done the ammeter bypass mod and may do the brighter headlight mod. This is a great site for these and other electrical mods> http://www.madelectrical.com/electrical-tech.shtml


before

after

 

[ChargerM440]

after
View attachment 799557

So, I understand and like the idea of bypassing the facotry ammeter and eliminating the firewall terminals. But why would you keep that red wire in there? It seems unnecessary and introduces two extra potential points for failure (splices).

 

[daytona kid]

So, I understand and like the idea of bypassing the factory ammeter and eliminating the firewall terminals. But why would you keep that red wire in there? It seems unnecessary and introduces two extra potential points for failure (splices).

Good question, a lot of people ask that. Leaving it and using it as in the pic helps reduce the load on that circuit, without it the black under dash wire by itself could get overloaded and get hot. Also it is easier to leave it and it's fusible link, less work. And if anyone in the future wants to put it back stock everything is there and easily put back as it was.. I simplified it even more by spicing the black to the red under the dash right before the firewall connector, and left the red wire as is going thru the connector since it isn't prone to fail like the black from alternator. And I did as the info recommends and soldered the splices, making less chance for failure.

 

[steve from staten island]

I installed a 100 amp alternator and added a #6 wire from the alternator to starter relay with a 12 gauge. fusible link. Im going to eliminate the fusible link and use a 80 amp DC circuit. breaker in its place. I left the black wire in its. place and spliced in a 30 amp maxi fuse. Black and red wire wires are hard wired going. through firewall junction box, so it looks original. The amp meter is also bypassed

 

[daytona kid]

I installed a 100 amp alternator and added a #6 wire from the alternator to starter relay with a 12 gauge. fusible link. Im going to eliminate the fusible link and use a 80 amp DC circuit. breaker in its place. I left the black wire in its. place and spliced in a 30 amp maxi fuse. Black and red wire wires are hard wired going. through firewall junction box, so it looks original. The amp meter is also bypassed

Good ideas all, but make sure you waterproof the breaker if it's under the hood. That's why they had fusible links out there, they're waterproof.. Also, you can put a voltmeter in place of the ammeter to keep nearer to stock.

 

[daytona kid]

I got most of what I need for the exhaust. Should be fun welding it up. My header collectors are 3" and everything from there back is also. The mufflers are 2 chamber $30 Summits. If plans work out I'll have the tips out the side a foot or so before the rear tires.

 

[showard]

Should be fun welding it up.

It will save a lot of money to build your exhaust system yourself.