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$500- 68 charger

Also got this tach. I'm hoping to put in in the dash if I'm able. The shift light adjuster be a problem. I did the same on my old RR years ago., so fingers crossed.

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Went by a bud's house the other day to show him the car and put some miles on it. Went a whopping 25 miles round trip, felt like 100. Had fun but it's kinda tuff to drive comfortably on the street. I'll have to swap out the 4.56 gear for something taller if I'm gonna drive on the street more.

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daytona kid said:
Went by a bud's house the other day to show him the car and put some miles on it. Went a whopping 25 miles round trip, felt like 100. Had fun but it's kinda tuff to drive comfortably on the street. I'll have to swap out the 4.56 gear for something taller if I'm gonna drive on the street more.

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That is one AWSOME car, love the hex of this thread, I’ve been enjoying it these past years
 
Those 4.56s are going to be brutal on anything above 45 mph. I once drove my race car to town with 5.13s, it was fun scooping the loop but not so much the 8 miles in & out of town. 3.73/3.91 would be a good compromise.
You might think about a race & street center section. You can change them out in a couple hours.
 
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My wonderful running 440 has developed a small oil leak from near the rear main seal. I don't think it is coming from the main seal itself but the aluminum bridge/saddle/journal that holds the bottom half of the seal. It has seals/gaskets on the sides and I'm thinking and hoping that one of them is where it's leaking. Funny but it doesn't seem to really leak until I turn off the engine. I should know but do all these seal parts go in, on, or around the 440 rear main seal area?

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If it leaks more when the engine is off, that could help pinpoint it. The oil level rises when the oil drains out of the heads, so it should be somewhere close to the full level.
 
Kid if you search I think there is info on rear main seal leaks. Common issues and the cures. Also if you go to an automotive store you can get oil die that will show up with light or black light. That's how I found my PS leak source. Good luck.
 
Well after much research, work, and aggravation I finally got it to stop leaking. I took the rear seal cap/retainer off and could see that there was nothing wrong with the main seal/s, top and bottom. The side seals on the cap were dried out and hard but not leaking there either. I replaced them and used hylomar gasket sealer everywhere needed on the cap and the oil pan. After 30 min test ride and idling in the driveway for awhile there were no drips. Can't really say exactly where the leak was but I think the ample use of the hylomar is what fixed it, since it didn't appear to have any type sealer before. Funny how it took six months to start leaking.
 
I'm in the middle of modifying my door bars. Almost done with the drivers side. Sure is a lot easier to get in and out now. Got the bars bent at a muffler shop, ha..

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All done with this side, may be awhile before I do the passenger side. What a difference!, it was so hard to get in and out before it was embarrassing. I just need a better pad now. I'm gonna see if I can find one with a nylon or canvas cover, like for jeeps etc.. maybe red.

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Went to one of the local 1/8th strips saturday evening and made a couple of passes. There were a lot of cars there, I'd say about 200. Plus about 25 jr dragster/mini rails and funny thing some of them were running faster than me.. I have had a problem with the motor floating the valves and falling on it's face, at not that hi of rpm. The springs are shot and now I know just how bad they are. Since I don't have the tach in yet I calculated the rpm they start floating. They started doing it right before the finish line., where I was doing close to 80mph. In 3rd gear at 80mph with a 4.56 rear gear and 30.5 tires the rpm is 4000. That is one sick motor, but I've been thinking of getting some decent pre built aluminum heads to fix the problem. Heck, maybe an intake also.. I had fun even with just 2 passes, did a lot of bench racing with buds. It is ridiculous tho to think of the reality of it, Getting to the track at 4pm and staying till after 12am, that's 8 hours for 2 passes, 1 qualifying run and 1st round, lost by .13, spent $25 to run my primo charger that I've worked on for 7 years and put umpteen thousand bucks into, and it can't even beat most of the jr dragsters.. lol. It did feel pretty good tho, till near the finish line. So I guess I'll have to get some new heads before I get any respectable passes. Sorry no good pics.

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I changed my rear gears to a 3.91 and it drives nice on the street now. With the 30.5in tires it should go about 70mph at 3000rpm, not figuring in trans slippage. I'm pretty sure it will do ok on a 1/4 or 1/8 strip also. But it may be awhile before I get back to the strip tho. Not much point till I get the motor running better.
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I've been doing a little cruising but not really anywhere to go during the virus crap.. I put some red packing tape on the map light lens. Now everything on the dash has red lights, it's like being in a military sub, ha.

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4:56 gears and a Viper T56 comes out to 2,000 rpm at 70mph... Just saying lol.

Love the way it came out, love the interior and the fact that your now enjoying it. Enjoy my friend.
 
Success!! The problem was the valve springs.. Finished swapping them last night and test ran it today. Runs great now!!
 
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I went to a cruise-in a couple of weeks ago and someone took this pic of me arriving at the event. If you look close at the pic, the top of my left rear quarter is missing., what is up with that? Temporal time distortion?

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