541 street strip motor, TF 270 heads, Weiand P3690982 cross ram or???

[biomedtechguy]

I still say ... rotary intake!
Like Hemi-Itis!

That DEFINITELY would eliminate my N96 hood!

 

[440fish]

Been following some of your threads and as others have said it seems you want the best of both worlds.

You have to ask yourself "do i really like to just drive my car?" If the answer is yes then bag the tunnel ram, efi, 270 heads and other radical mods and enjoy your car. At the end of the day you are going down a path of potentially huge headaches and for sure big costs. The net product will be subpar due to wanting to stick with a 6 BBL vs a modern 4B that will without a doubt outperform at this performance level...

Build a solid street / strip stroker motor with a 6 pack manifold that fits under the hood and will give you thousands of miles of trouble free driving yet put you back in the seat when you floor it. Judging by the results you are experiencing with the current motor i think the potential is even there to be a fast car but something just isnt right? Sometimes a motor is just a "bad combination of parts" vs a proven setup that works in symphony.

I just sold my Super Bee that had a 493 stroker w eddy heads, solid cam, pump gas motor to a fella that had a pro street camaro. After the test drive he remarked "man this thing is fast." Ironically he sold his Camaro because it just wasnt fun to go anywhere over a few miles.

my buddys Road Runner is a 500CI 6BBL, 590ish lift solid flat tappet, 240TF heads, pump gas motor that Dynoed at 619HP. It is a HANDFUL being a 4 speed. I cant imagine any more HP for something id like to take out on a regular basis. Even he remarked that its a little much and should have dialed it back a little. Drag radials are a MUST if you want to romp on it and not wrap it around a tree. That being said you are now buying expensive tires on regular basis because they dont last worth a ****.... BTW he would gladly take you for a ride to see what it is like

Anyway just trying to offer a caution flag before going down the mega performance rabbit hole that ultimately ends up in an expensive, often impractical headache. Especially if pursueing an unproven engine build.

Wish you luck whatever you do

 

[biomedtechguy]

my buddys Road Runner is a 500CI 6BBL, 590ish lift solid flat tappet, 240TF heads, pump gas motor that Dynoed at 619HP. It is a HANDFUL being a 4 speed. I cant imagine any more HP for something id like to take out on a regular basis. Even he remarked that its a little much and should have dialed it back a little. Drag radials are a MUST if you want to romp on it and not wrap it around a tree. That being said you are now buying expensive tires on regular basis because they dont last worth a ****.... BTW he would gladly take you for a ride to see what it is like

I bought Toyo Proxes TQ drag radials for my Roadrunner 3 years ago and those are still on my car. Good tread left too:

Now granted, when I get the parts/systems I have installed, and the rear suspension and traction/launch stuff aquired and installed, I'm expecting to go to the track a lot more. Still, I hope to continue to drive on this brand of tire.
I am taking your warning seriously.
I have asked numerous times "What is it like to drive a 6XX HP and torque car?"
I'd like to take up the offer to see what your buddy's car is like, but I'm in South Louisiana.

 

[Budnicks]

Would TF 240s on a 541 be a stupid choice? Using my current dual plane 6bbl intake on the 240s?
Or going with the TF 270s, modding my dual plane to Max Wedge ports and the Vanke mod? Still too much of a choke point?
That points me back to the ModMan.
The last variable is the displacement. Am I wrong to think that a 541 is going to be more of a TORQUE monster than a 505? Wouldn't a 541 be able to use less cam lift to achieve the same power? Easier on parts because it doesn't have to work as hard or spin as fast?

sorry not trying to burst your bubble
Yes in theory it all sounds really great
(you really need to listen to Jim @IQ52 ... I say, do what he tells you
not do what 15 other people tell you, you'll get 15 different opinions
you need to focus, do an outline/plan to your build & stick to it)

the cubes are a plus, yes to an extent
the bigger MW ports are a plus, yes to an extent
especially for an all out race combo

sorry but it's a reality check,
a street/strip combo, it will never have it's full potential,
best of both worlds, mentality, you really can't have it all
but not enough camshaft , not enough intake volume or flow or camshaft/lift etc.
let alone value $$$'s per/hp ... just because you won't compromise in 1 area,
the 6bbl... Don't get me wrong I love 6bbl's too

IF you have to have the 6bbl,
you really need to learn to tune it properly 1st...

I've been pretty damn fast with one too,
with far less than you will have, $$$ & parts wise
went 9.77 @ 135 in a 3520# 68 RR car on CalTracks
& M/T drag radials 315/60/15 with some actual sidewall,
not some modified street tires on big hoops
& an auto-trans 727 & a worked converter, not a clutch/3rd pedal
when I put the Dominator & a 300 shot N20 on, it went best of 8.58 @ 156,
on a test & tune track, 100* summer day, with everything else the same,
with a 383/479cid low-deck combo & far/far less $$$
(like $10k) it was street driven too, it wasn't a daily driver,
I did drive it to the track & cruised it a bit, to the tune of about 12k miles
or a combo you'd want to go on a 1000 mile trip in, but it could do it, if need be,
but why ? unless it was for drag week or something !!! , bragging rights ?
but that's just a waste of parts & $$$ that I don't/didn't have
(especially valve-train stuff) unnecessary Wear & tear on expensive parts etc.

disclaimer; not trying to harp/pick on you, I want you to do well
IMO you will never get what you want out of a manual trans/clutch combo,
even if it is the ultimate driving pleasure, you're trying to go fast, with 2 feet in the mud,
& an arm in there too.... be that as it may
#1st a 6bbl limited performance unless you are really good with tuning
& do a full on ported manifold &
#2nd a clutch/3rd pedal, unless you're Ronnie Sox,
it will cause all kinds of issues & frustrations, or breakage, especially with 600 ft/lbs+ of torque
even if it is cool as hell, you're going to be fighting those issues all the time,
#3rd IMHFO then there's the style of tires you have, with no side wall to speak of (no bite)
& IMO will almost certainly never hook properly, when they don't hook now with what you have now
ad up all 3 & they are all detriments to the combo

but the Dominator or big 4150 4bbl & a plate N20 system
is hands down better, in the long run, for what you're trying to do
& IMO it won't have to sacrifice as much, still be cool as hell
whether it's a 470cid or a 572cid stroked monster,
be-it a 240 AFR std port combo or a 270 AFR MW port !!!
the extra heads flow will never really hurt you, even with the 6bbl combo
it's all the mix matched **** that will



an assemblage of parts is a real sacrifice,
something of them 3 above, will always hold you back

this is the last I will say on it...

good luck

 

[biomedtechguy]

I'm going to try to take the questions and comments down a big notch.
You are correct. I'm not looking for the most efficient way to make power, or win a class, etc.
My biggest question is and has been before: What is 6XX on the street like?
I know that isn't an uncommon number, I hear it and read about it all the time.
So give me 6XX HP and torque with a 3x2 feeding it, keep the maintenance as low as is reasonable, I don't mind checking lash occasionally, tuning carbs, this and that. I DON'T WANT parts to be on the verge of breaking. I don't want spring pressures so high I have to worry, replace parts, etc. So cubic inches should make that job easier I'm thinking.
Thanks Budnicks, we're good.
You know what a fast, powerful 6bbl RB is like on the street.
I am going to find out, and do the best I can.

 

[Hemirunner]

As I see it, the biggest problem here is street vs race regarding the transmission. The wheel/tire thing isn’t a big deal as you can switch out easily for the track. As far as driveability, big cubes rule in that arena. A 540 or 572 will swallow a big cam and still idle well and produce so much low end torque that it drives like grandmas buick. The problem then comes with that manual transmission and launching that at the track. Put a good clutch in it, hook the tire and you’ll find the next weakest link. The induction scenario is just as complex but easier to resolve. The 6 pack tunnel ram isn’t much better than the modman. The modman would be useable on a big engine but would be much better with EFI. His goals are easily reached with 240 heads and the stock 6 pack intake. Did that years ago with Eddy RPMs. To me, the answer is this:
A)leave the 440 in if you want to keep it street strip with a manual
B) add the stroker, keep the stick and stop racing
C) Add the stroker and ditch the stick for street/strip.

 

[68 HEMI GTS]

sorry not trying to burst your bubble
Yes in theory it all sounds really great
(you really need to listen to Jim @IQ52 ... I say, do what he tells you
not do what 15 other people tell you, you'll get 15 different opinions
you need to focus, do an outline/plan to your build & stick to it)

the cubes are a plus, yes to an extent
the bigger MW ports are a plus, yes to an extent
especially for an all out race combo

sorry but it's a reality check,
a street/strip combo, it will never have it's full potential,
best of both worlds, mentality, you really can't have it all
but not enough camshaft , not enough intake volume or flow or camshaft/lift etc.
let alone value $$$'s per/hp ... just because you won't compromise in 1 area,
the 6bbl... Don't get me wrong I love 6bbl's too

IF you have to have the 6bbl,
you really need to learn to tune it properly 1st...

I've been pretty damn fast with one too,
with far less than you will have, $$$ & parts wise
went 9.77 @ 135 in a 3520# 68 RR car on CalTracks
& M/T drag radials 315/60/15 with some actual sidewall,
not some modified street tires on big hoops
& an auto-trans 727 & a worked converter, not a clutch/3rd pedal
when I put the Dominator & a 300 shot N20 on, it went best of 8.58 @ 156,
on a test & tune track, 100* summer day, with everything else the same,
with a 383/479cid low-deck combo & far/far less $$$
(like $10k) it was street driven too, it wasn't a daily driver,
I did drive it to the track & cruised it a bit, to the tune of about 12k miles
or a combo you'd want to go on a 1000 mile trip in, but it could do it, if need be,
but why ? unless it was for drag week or something !!! , bragging rights ?
but that's just a waste of parts & $$$ that I don't/didn't have
(especially valve-train stuff) unnecessary Wear & tear on expensive parts etc.

disclaimer; not trying to harp/pick on you, I want you to do well
IMO you will never get what you want out of a manual trans/clutch combo,
even if it is the ultimate driving pleasure, you're trying to go fast, with 2 feet in the mud,
& an arm in there too.... be that as it may
#1st a 6bbl limited performance unless you are really good with tuning
& do a full on ported manifold &
#2nd a clutch/3rd pedal, unless you're Ronnie Sox,
it will cause all kinds of issues & frustrations, or breakage, especially with 600 ft/lbs+ of torque
even if it is cool as hell, you're going to be fighting those issues all the time,
#3rd IMHFO then there's the style of tires you have, with no side wall to speak of (no bite)
& IMO will almost certainly never hook properly, when they don't hook now with what you have now
ad up all 3 & they are all detriments to the combo

but the Dominator or big 4150 4bbl & a plate N20 system
is hands down better, in the long run, for what you're trying to do
& IMO it won't have to sacrifice as much, still be cool as hell
whether it's a 470cid or a 572cid stroked monster,
be-it a 240 AFR std port combo or a 270 AFR MW port !!!
the extra heads flow will never really hurt you, even with the 6bbl combo
it's all the mix matched **** that will



an assemblage of parts is a real sacrifice,
something of them 3 above, will always hold you back

this is the last I will say on it...

good luck

sounds like a killer combo!! Mind sharing the details?

 

[Budnicks]

sounds like a killer combo!! Mind sharing the details?

I really didn't intend to highjack Bio's thread

here's a look at it's last rendition
479cid 383/479cid 0.040 over 4.15" crank
had a solid roller in it earlier, I was experimenting
post #2, more details
https://www.forbbodiesonly.com/moparforum/threads/post-yout-9-second-or-faster-combos.25228/
not sure what gears it had, I think it was the 3.91:1's at the time
it had 3.73 (with the Dominator IIRC), 3.91, 4.10, or 4.30:1's
gears at one time or other
very little differences in overall ET,
the 60 ft & 330 ft were better with the 4.30:1 & 4.10:1's
but it trapped a bit higher RPM than the hyd. roller liked
the 11" (more like 10.5") completely reworked 175k MP converter case,
was rated at 3800, like an old J converter
(Mikes Transmission, did a bunch of stuff for me way back when
in Lancaster Ca. IIRC)
was really more like a 4200-4500 rpm flash stall, depending on gear
partially was because a heavier car with 3.73:1 gears
made it stall/flash work more early, then not give up so much down track
or when street driving
IMO was probably where a lot of the performance was gained...
I battled a bunch of converter problems, before I finally had that one done...
I wish I had that one back, hands down best MoPar converter I ever had...
A real custom piece, it did help for a street/strip combo, it wasn't cheap either...

I've had far faster real racecars, but that thing was fun as hell,
bang for the $$$, pseudo "streetcar"...

enjoy

 

[biomedtechguy]

His goals are easily reached with 240 heads and the stock 6 pack intake.

So if I understand what you mean, even with a 541, use TF240 heads and my current Edelbrock/Chrysler aluminum 6bbl intake? Or?

 

[Hemirunner]

So if I understand what you mean, even with a 541, use TF240 heads and my current Edelbrock/Chrysler aluminum 6bbl intake? Or?

I posted the dyno sheets of the one I did years ago with the Eddy RPMs, six pack and a little hydraulic roller cam. It easily met your numbers at 626hp and 685ft/lbs and the TF240 head is better than those RPMs.

 

[biomedtechguy]

One other note:
"Racing" to me is Test and Tune night.
Maybe, just maybe bracket racing after test and tune.
Mostly "pick up races" like seeing maybe another "old school" car and saying I can beat you (heads up, on my back tire, etc etc) or seeing someone at Cruisin the Coast and "making an appointment" at Gulfport Dragway. Maybe just blipping the throttle and lighting 'em up to "oohs and ahhs"...
So the stick STAYS.
Oh ye of so little faith in the HitMaster...

I may start a "new trend"...
Herb McCandless is going to be proud I "stuck with the stick"...
And then there's my wife and her GTO.
So far, I've made it to the stripe every time before her, but we're making some changes to help her reach or exceed her goal of beating my dad's 12.8
I have never run that fast, but I think the ONLY reason why is poor off the line traction and crappy 60 ft times, so I'm working on getting that squared away asap. It just so happens that all of these other goodies came my way as part of a major money saving opportunity, and we bought a lot of stuff for both cars we wanted and needed, so that goes in first.

 

[68 HEMI GTS]

I’d put mine into the low to mid 600’s as well give the mph and weight. When I built it the goal was 10.90’s driving to the track on pump gas through exhaust. It went 10.95 that first trip to the track. In my case I also wanted a six pack as well as a street engine I could drive daily. I carefully put together a combo that would perform decent but would be street focused. I could have easily taken my Indy’s to M/W port but chose to stay standard for the manifold. I also compromised in several other aspects as this was a street car. Not sure It will always stay that way but honestly it’s pretty damn fast on the street. I also plan on going back to the clutch pedal with it. As I’ve said before I would call Wilson and see what they can do to the stock manifold. Personally a 540 I would be inclined to go M/W. I’d have the factory intake worked over. I think if it ever gets traction, that passon 5 speed will be shrapnel, Clutch thingamajigy or not. It takes a seriously prepped and purpose built stick car to bracket race or even lay down fast passes. There’s a reason the 6 speed hellcats run 13’s and the autos run low 11’s stock. Big engines, heavy cars, and clutches equal broken parts without race parts and r&d. And getting there will be a sacrifice to streetability.

this is a fast B body, notice the seriously slipping clutch? You’re not going to do that with a street clutch and a syncod street box.

 

[biomedtechguy]

Well, I really appreciate your advice, patience, information, help, and cautionary tales....
I will say that one of the biggest reasons why I chose the Passon 5 speed is the conservative rating of 700 continuous ft lbs of torque handling capability. From reading posts and messages from some "insiders" re the Passon, 700 ft lbs rating is minimal power handling safe level, and the actual strength of the unit is closer to 800 ft lbs.
Now I've heard of "strength upgrades" for the TKO transmission, nitrided this, flash frozen that, unicorn fart gas environment while the gears are forged, etc etc...lol.
I would not have objected to the transmission tunnel being nipped or carved on some if that is what it needed to get the strength in a manual transmission that I need, but the Passon doesn't need ANY of that. My point is that "drop in" installation is NOT why I chose it.
It's STRENGTH is why I chose it.
Now I am not sure what else is "out there" should I find myself making more than one call to Jamie Passon for a shipping label because I grenaded his 5 speed, and at $5,500, that 5 speed isn't something I can destroy and take that kind of loss. I kept my Passon modded 833 Hemi 18 spline 4 speed for a backup transmission, just in case the 5 speed needs to be serviced or repaired, I can pop in the 833 and roll, just not on the highway for very long w/the 4.10 R&P. I kept my 3.54s so if I was going to be "stuck" w/the 833 for longer than I could stand, I could put the 3.54s back in.
The only manual transmission that I know of that is significantly stronger than the Passon is a Lenco. Those things are huge, round beasts, but the multiple shift levers are cool. That sure would make all that work Blue Thunder Consoles and I did on my custom console a thing of the past.
So what other manual transmission options are there, should I find the Passon is not up to the task? (I'm just curious, I honestly don't think I'm going to break it)
EDIT: I've also read about the Jerico transmissions. Great video, thanks!
As far as the...

Clutch thingamajigy

goes, here are some racing reviews for the ClutchTamer and HitMaster:
ClutchTamer. The device has been embraced by a wide variety of racers, particularly those in the heads-up ranks that run manual transmissions like the NMRA’s G-Force Racing Transmissions Coyote Stock and Richmond Gear Factory Stock. As you’ll see in the photos here, we contacted several of them to see how using one impacted their racing.
That’s great, of course, but how does this adjustable clutch pedal damper help a car launch with a clutch?
“It’s configured to allow the clutch pedal to be instantly released to a specific point within its ‘sweet spot’ zone. That sweet spot is the zone where the clutch hits/grabs just hard enough to get the car in motion as efficiently as possible. Any harder would result in spinning tires or breaking parts, any softer would slow reaction time and leave e.t. on the table,” Robbins explained. “As the pedal reaches that specific point within that zone, its travel is instantly slowed by a hydraulic cylinder with the effect of extending the time spent within that zone. The goal is to give the car more time to gain speed before the clutch locks up, which helps make the car quicker by keeping rpm up higher where the engine can make more power.”
In a way, the ’Tamer is effectively like installing a higher stall speed torque converter in an automatic car. It allows for enough slip to let the car accelerate, while softening the blow off the line.
Though the original Clutch Tamer is designed for traditional, cable-actuated clutches, the company now offers the HitMaster In-Line Hydraulic Clutch Hit Controller. This unit installs in-line with the hydraulic clutch line and allows the same adjustment as its mechanical cousin.

“The HitMaster in-line hydraulic version allows you to dial back the intensity of that instant initial hit, much like the original ClutchTamer. Let’s say you have an overkill clutch that can hold 1,000 lb-ft behind an engine that only makes 600. If you launch the car and allow that clutch to hit with it’s full 1,000 lb-ft capacity, it’s going to instantly pull an additional 400 lb-ft of inertia out of the rotating assembly, which causes the engine to lose rpm,” Grant Robbins explained. “Extra clutch capacity, beyond what it takes to hold the engine’s torque, that’s what controls how fast the clutch pulls the engine down. Too much extra clutch torque capacity, the clutch either pulls the engine down too fast (bog), knocks the tires loose, or breaks drivetrain parts. But if you dialed the initial hit of that 1,000-lb-ft clutch all the way back to around 700 lb-ft, it still holds all of the engine’s 600 lb-ft of torque, except now it only pulls engine rpm down at a much slower 100 lb-ft rate. Because the car is gaining speed while the clutch is pulling the engine down, the engine doesn’t get pulled down as far,”
So just like the mechanical version, the hydraulic ’Tamer is another tool that helps you dial in your combination for better performance.“But if you were to use a ClutchTamer or HitMaster to cut the initial hit of that 1,000-lb-ft clutch back to 900 lb-ft, it’s not going to pull the engine down as fast, which gives the car more time to accelerate. The result would look more like line ‘B,’ where the car is able to accelerate to about 20 mph before engine rpm syncs up with vehicle speed (that sync point is where the clutch actually stops slipping),” Robbins added. “That raises bog rpm to about 2,800, where the engine is obviously going to make a lot more power than it did at 1,800 rpm. Backing the hit of that 1,000-lb-ft clutch off to 800 would result in something like line ‘C,’ where the engine stays above 3,700. Now the bog point is up to around 420 horsepower. Back the hit off to around 700 lb-ft and it would look more like line ‘D,’ as the clutch is now only pulling 100 lb-ft of inertia out of the rotating assembly. That extra slip time allows the engine to stay closer to its sweet spot for power production, now it’s up to about 550 horsepower through the low point of the bog.”
Now owners of modern musclecars can employ this system to control launches on cars that are easy to take from stock to beyond-four-digit horsepower with the right combination of upgrades.
Street and Strip
While the ClutchTamer is definitely geared toward the racing crowd, its installation is said to have little impact on day-to-day usability. As such, you could easily run one in your street/strip race car and only see its benefits when you head to the track.
“…Pedal release rates during casual driving are typically a lot slower than a slip controlled drag strip launch, so the driver still has full control over feathering of the clutch pedal for a smooth start,” he said.
That means your weekend warrior will always be ready for battle. However, for those times of competition, you’ll definitely want the right supporting hardware.
“Not for casual driving, just drive it like you did before. You may notice that the clutch pedal takes longer to return to the top when released, but other than that you probably won’t even notice that it’s there,” he added. “For launching at the drag strip, releasing the clutch pedal from a properly adjusted pedal stop is a must for consistency.”
Of course, despite the popularity of the ’Tamer, some drivers still rely on the doing the work the old fashioned way. One such driver is Coyote Stock record holder Darin Hendricks. He gets the job done with his own driving skill and a Black Magic diaphragm clutch. Reportedly, this combo lasted most of the season, and only needed a freshened flywheel, pressure ring and disc in advance of the World Finals just to be sure the combo was ready to compete for a championship. Along with his crew chief, Ed Curtis of FlowTech Induction Solutions, the duo use datalogging and old-fashioned notes to keep track of how to adjust this setup for track conditions.
A properly dialed in ClutchTamer launch will hit softer than an automatic, but that softer hit lasts longer. Basically it takes a clutch dump launch that’s too intense/violent that wastes a lot of energy, and transforms that launch by spreading the energy release over a longer time period where it can be harnessed more efficiently,” Robbins said. “That’s what makes it so easy to launch on radials when the hit is controlled by a ClutchTamer. That softer launch also makes the car less sensitive to chassis/shock adjustments, so less likely to need expensive shocks to control that softer hit.”
Essentially this device is democratizing the kind of driving skill that an elite few have hone and perfected. It allows adjusting how aggressive the clutch will hit to accommodate for track conditions and should generally make launches more consistent.
“The ability to dial in the hit also makes it possible to launch from pretty much any rpm you want to. Launch rpm is basically stored energy, and the engine has to make the energy that it takes to spin up that rotating assembly,” Robbins added. “A slip-controlled clutch allows for spinning it up much higher prior to the start, which makes more power available to accelerate the car when the clocks are running.”
There's way more to the story.
To read more about RACING reviews on the launch control systems, go here:
http://clutchtamer.com/

 

[440rb]

Well here is a scenario for you, nowhere near what you want and something your not likely to go for but something to perhaps reflect upon as a good street/strip low maintenance package. Similar to what we will have with our 589, we have now gone with a TCI proX 10" 3600>4500 verter.

So its 541ci, TF270's, Indy 440-3 intake, a Thumper 1050 Dom, Full Manual 727, custom converter, mild .500>.550" sft cam, 260>[email protected] suggested with 1.5 rockers, your 4.500 bore should get those 270's flowing close to the 330cfm range@only .500" and [email protected]". That is enough for 650hp, perhaps more, yes you are leaving some horses on the table but you'll have minimal stress on the valvetrain, less spring pressures etc. etc., lash checks once or twice only....converter should be street able, carb is sorted and the rest is down to you as far as hooking@the track, with c-tracs/mono's and good shocks it shouldn't be hard and it should save you a lot of possible headaches, breakages? and $$$$$$$, job done...my 2c's.

 

[biomedtechguy]

Thanks a lot 440rb.
I welcome ALL posts with suggestions and information.
I am absolutely keeping the manual transmission. If I have to work around it, so be it. I will have the HitMaster launch control system and my Hydramax hydraulic throwout bearing installed in the next few months. I'm hoping to be able to afford all of the rear suspension upgrades for traction, new leaf springs, sliders, Viking double adjustable shocks, and the Assassin traction bars.
All with my current warmed over 440+6.
I expect to be in the high 12s if I get my 60ft times down to or under 1.8 sec.
Here's the math: 13.3X at 106 in the 1320.
That is leaving the line around 1,100-1,200 RPMs, rolling out a few feet and flooring it, keeping my foot on the floor and power shifting. I haven't even run a full quarter mile yet since I switched the 3.54s out for the 4.10s since my 5 speed swap! I ran the 1/8th at a track as part of the Moparty Picnic in Chattanooga, but I sucked on the light (very unusual, I usually cut a good RT). Traction was a problem.
I have had a line lock for over a year. It's being installed along with the new Wilwood 4 wheel disc brake system.
So once I get all of that installed and dialed in, I'll have a much better idea if the launch control system is something that can make a manual transmission and 6XX HP and torque motor play together without scattering shrapnel across the starting line.
I am also going to try a different size drag radial. The ones I have as has been stated have short sidewalls. 315/35/17
They make a 345/45/17 that have a taller sidewall. They're over 2" taller in diameter.

Here's what I think are the BEST track tires I could use. They fit on my wheels and are made for the track. I'd just switch over to these at the track:

Now I'm already under the minimum wheel width with the 315s, at 9" with 10.5" being called for. The 345s call for a 11.5" minimum, but I don't have bulging sidewalls now, so I'm not scared, and I can send them back if they don't fit or look like they're going to kill me.
I may skip the Toyo Proxes TQ drag radials altogether, use the Toyos ONLY on the street, and get a pair of bias ply MT drag tires with a nice, tall, flexible sidewall.
Before I get ANY new tires I'm going to try my line lock and all of the new rear suspension traction improvement related parts and see what happens with my current tires.
The 4bbl intake is a non-starter.
I'm going to start with the Promax modded Holley carbs I have, and if I change to anything else it will be the F&B 3x2 EFI direct port injection system.

 

[bwheeler051]

I dont remember who commented on the modman.
It works just fine. I have been 9.40s at 140mph with a modman and a pair of edelbrocks on a 540 in a heavy car. Put the time and effort into testing and trying things and you will find what your combination wants.

 

[biomedtechguy]

the modman...It works just fine. I have been 9.40s at 140mph with a modman and a pair of edelbrocks on a 540 in a heavy car.

So 2x4bbl Edelbrock carbs, not EFI, right?
What CFM?
I never expected to hit 9s, but if I ultimately wind up there, I'd need surgery to remove the perma-grin!
Thanks for the comments.
Positive, encouraging, or contrary and correcting, ALL comments are welcome!

 

[66Satellite47]

Bio, your last post points out a need to figure out one combination, the go up from there. The manual trans alone will likely take you some effort. A 505 would give you an extremely stout street/strip beast, if you can get fair/good traction. Your stock 6 BBL can produce air flows for about 600HP w/ good heads, IMHO. Trying to go too far too fast may make you nuts.

 

[66Satellite47]

Bio, BTW that Weiand cross tunnel is really cool & some made it work really well. Of the 3 that I personally knew that used it, 1 did very well, 2 marginal. took work, the Mopar mods seemed to generally help. My guess is lots of dyno time would be needed for top results. Ports can be opened quite a bit from "stock". I wish I'd pulled the trigger on the Weiand tunnel.

 

[biomedtechguy]

Trying to go too far too fast may make you nuts.

Too late..

Your stock 6 BBL can produce air flows for about 600HP w/ good heads, IMHO

I know Jim Laroy and some other builders have made 600-635HP and well into the 6XX torque w/a 6bbl up top.
I was warned about the Edelbrock/Chrysler aluminum 6bbl intake and nitrous spray plate setup, but now I'm thinking I'll never need nitrous, even as a 3rd or 4th gear "oh ****" button to give me a 2nd half track push if I find myself behind the other car.
The reason why I'm thinking the dual plane 6bbl, even having the ports massaged (Jim Laroy tweaked the top of the runners on one of his builds as I understand) and the TF240s, that 240s are just too small to put on a 540, and the dual plane intake won't flow enough for a 540 cu in motor. The aftermarket block is what has me going up from 505/512/528 to 540, because it comes with the 4.50 bore, and doesn't require any internal clearance mods to accommodate a 4.50 crank. 540 is a 4.25 crank, and AndyF gave me what seemed to be the 100% A-OK when I asked him if he thought a 4.50 bore x 4.25 stroke was a good combo.
I can't imagine going to a 505 vs a 540 would work to my benefit. My thinking is the extra power made by sheer size will allow for less lift on the cam, allowing for flat tappet lifters and springs with less force than a solid roller, and all of that means less chance of breakage and generally lower maintenance.
If I ever get control of the BEAST, and want to do more, the route I am inclined to take is to switch the top plate of the ModMan to 3x2 TBI with the direct port injectors installed in the bosses that are already cast in. That would take me from 1350 2bbl/950 4bbl CFM all the way up to 2,400 CFM available that has been done with the 3x2 F&B TBI/DPI system.