What is your ride height? Are you hitting your bump stop? You said you don’t have much rebound when you ounce your front end? How is it when you have shocks removed? It should bounce freely if it still rebounds slow you have something binding
'62 Savoy Harsh Ride Quality
- Thread starter 69plywgn
- Start date
Update: With vehicle on the floor, checked ride height and it's within limits of the FSM specs. (std. susp., incl. Sub.); also measured left and right sides from floor to lip of wheel well (same). There's approx. 1 3/4" between bump stop and UCA. Loosened strut rod nuts to check for metal sleeve between bushings (no sleeve, which is correct per FPC) and left them loose. Removed left and right front upper shock absorber mount nuts and jounced front end (now has "spring" and moves freely). Jacked it up and removed the Comp. Eng. shocks and put the Gabriel's back on, but didn't tighten upper mount nuts (both brands of shocks have the same comp. and ext. dimensions). While the front wheels are off, I'll replace the Generals with the Coopers to match the rears. During reassembly, I'll jounce the front end after each step. Before I tighten/torque (30 ft. lbs. per FSM) the strut rod nuts with the vehicle on the ground, I'll loosen the '62 sway bar rear attach points to prevent any interference.
Side note: Per a previous post, I have p/n 776 and 777 (date code '71) .88" dia. t/bars, which are correct per the FPC (std. susp., Sub.). They were installed about 6 years ago (I assume they're used). Could they have lost some "spring" after 49 years? The "T/bar App. Chart" lists these p/n bars for "Most 2-bbl. V8's." It also lists .90" for 4-bbl. 383, 426 Wedge and .925" for 440, 426 Hemi. Since I have a 440, should I get larger and newer t/bars?
Thanks to everyone for the input. I'll let you know the final result.
Side note: Per a previous post, I have p/n 776 and 777 (date code '71) .88" dia. t/bars, which are correct per the FPC (std. susp., Sub.). They were installed about 6 years ago (I assume they're used). Could they have lost some "spring" after 49 years? The "T/bar App. Chart" lists these p/n bars for "Most 2-bbl. V8's." It also lists .90" for 4-bbl. 383, 426 Wedge and .925" for 440, 426 Hemi. Since I have a 440, should I get larger and newer t/bars?
Thanks to everyone for the input. I'll let you know the final result.
fbs63
Well-Known Member
I have a set of original torsion bars from a 63 Polara 383 A/C car if you need them.
Well, I put it all back together and went for a drive. The ride quality has improved and when I jounce the front end, it has some rebound and it's not as stiff as it was. As for the torsion bars, maybe the answer is "if it ain't broke, don't fix it." Thanks again for the assistance.
Correction: the strut rod nut torque is 40 ft. lbs. per the FSM, not 30.
Correction: the strut rod nut torque is 40 ft. lbs. per the FSM, not 30.
62MAX: About four years ago I replaced the rear leaf springs with a new set (6 leaf) from Springs N' Things. Maybe I should upgrade to .925 bars, since they're what's called out for a 440. At least I'll have all winter to look.
By the way, I love your wagon! What engine is in it? Was it black originally?
By the way, I love your wagon! What engine is in it? Was it black originally?
62MAX
Well-Known Member
Actually it was white when I bought it,sold new to Kansas forest then went to Crawford Nebraska fire Dept.18,542 miles when I brought it home in 1997.A few pictures.
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