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64 Belvedere hood to radiator seal and running hot

Well if you running hot at low speeds, it’s either not enough radiator, not enough fan(s), water moving too slowly or you timing is way off. Trying a smaller pulley is the absolute cheapest thing to try out first.
 
thanks for your reply Darter6....yes, I bought a spring for the bottom hose
Where did you find the hose spring? I looked at my local parts stores with no luck. Thanks.
Mike
 
ColoradoDave put me on the top seal idea that I added to my '63 while hunting down my overheat issues. Some cars were equipped while others not so I had to drill the holes to install the seal. Ended up doing several things on the hike to lower temp trying different ideas. One had talked about removing the stat; but then others said a bad idea as the unimpeded coolant flow can compromise the intent of the radiator as posted above here; ya get water traveling so fast thru the rad it has no time to do its job of cooling. Added an oem shroud and 7 blade fan I bought from fellow forum members. Some after-market shrouds can be a trick as the distance btw the fan and rad can actually create an inefficiency flow for directing air to the motor. Later I was tipped to try reducing the ratio of anti-freeze to water (I want with around a 30% mix) as a higher anti-freeze mix can increase temps. Since I only drive my car in the warmer months and sits in a heated garage this wasn't an issue anyway. Then got a tip to add 'water-wetter' as well. Later I explored motor oils finding oil experts saying heavier visc oil increases temp and mutli-grade lower visc oils work just fine. Heavier visc racing oils as said, are for racing, no need for street or cruising. Did that. All in all, seemed that every tip had a positive effect in that my engine temp is some 25-degrees lower than it was. As it was my car could run all day idling; but once out on the road after some distance the temp got real hot.
 
If you have had the same problem with the stock rad, then with the griffin rad and also on the dyno with fresh water being pumped into the engine and controlled I would start to look at internal possibilities. Maybe as simple as a T stat being upside down or a head gasket blocking a coolant port? Just seems weird the issue has not changed at all with better cooling parts. Just my two cents. Ow and why not try a high flow water pump might be the problem?
 
I know this is an airflow solution which goes against a water flow issue that your symptoms suggest but do you have the factory gravel shield installed. My 64 didn't have one when I bought it and I made one and it directed all the airflow through the radiator reducing my coolant temps. Just thought.
 
Well if you running hot at low speeds, it’s either not enough radiator, not enough fan(s), water moving too slowly or you timing is way off. Trying a smaller pulley is the absolute cheapest thing to try out first.

actually at low speed I'm fine it's when I'm moving faster the problem comes in
 
Where did you find the hose spring? I looked at my local parts stores with no luck. Thanks.
Mike

Hey Mike....I hate to say where I got the spring because it was on a Fird website but I guess I can make an exception this time....lol cjponyparts.com but don't tell anyone I'm using a Fird part in my Mopar
 
I know this is an airflow solution which goes against a water flow issue that your symptoms suggest but do you have the factory gravel shield installed. My 64 didn't have one when I bought it and I made one and it directed all the airflow through the radiator reducing my coolant temps. Just thought.

I've never seen a Savoy, Belvedere or Sportfury with a gravel shield....could you post some pictures?
 
If you have had the same problem with the stock rad, then with the griffin rad and also on the dyno with fresh water being pumped into the engine and controlled I would start to look at internal possibilities. Maybe as simple as a T stat being upside down or a head gasket blocking a coolant port? Just seems weird the issue has not changed at all with better cooling parts. Just my two cents. Ow and why not try a high flow water pump might be the problem?

when it was on the dyno the motor was in the car so it was a closed system at the time. I'm thinking about replacing the water pump but the person I talked to at Griffin swears that will make it worse. I'm going to replace the t-stat 1st add the hood to rad seal and take it for a test drive.
 
To me it doesn't sound like a air flow problem or it would overheat in stop and go driving not on the highway. If the car is getting hot over 40mph you either have to much coolant flow not giving the rad time to remove heat from the coolant, wich I don't think you have. Or a restriction not allowing coolant to flow properly. What heads are you running?
 
ColoradoDave put me on the top seal idea that I added to my '63 while hunting down my overheat issues. Some cars were equipped while others not so I had to drill the holes to install the seal. Ended up doing several things on the hike to lower temp trying different ideas. One had talked about removing the stat; but then others said a bad idea as the unimpeded coolant flow can compromise the intent of the radiator as posted above here; ya get water traveling so fast thru the rad it has no time to do its job of cooling. Added an oem shroud and 7 blade fan I bought from fellow forum members. Some after-market shrouds can be a trick as the distance btw the fan and rad can actually create an inefficiency flow for directing air to the motor. Later I was tipped to try reducing the ratio of anti-freeze to water (I want with around a 30% mix) as a higher anti-freeze mix can increase temps. Since I only drive my car in the warmer months and sits in a heated garage this wasn't an issue anyway. Then got a tip to add 'water-wetter' as well. Later I explored motor oils finding oil experts saying heavier visc oil increases temp and mutli-grade lower visc oils work just fine. Heavier visc racing oils as said, are for racing, no need for street or cruising. Did that. All in all, seemed that every tip had a positive effect in that my engine temp is some 25-degrees lower than it was. As it was my car could run all day idling; but once out on the road after some distance the temp got real hot.

Hi Ron, thanks for all the good info.....I'm starting to wonder if the dual electric fans are part of the problem. Once the temp gets up to 180 they come on and don't shut off until 160 which it doesn't get down to and I'm thinking that maybe the fans are not moving as much air at let's say 50mph than if they were shut off and air was just going through the rad on it's own as I go down the road. I had to up the anti-freeze water ratio over last winter due to a cold snap here in Ohio otherwise I run about a 80% water 20% a/f and I also use water wetter but I was having the same issue last year when the ratio was 80-20. I am using a 15W/50 oil called Driven and until I get the temp down I'm going to stay with it.
 
To me it doesn't sound like a air flow problem or it would overheat in stop and go driving not on the highway. If the car is getting hot over 40mph you either have to much coolant flow not giving the rad time to remove heat from the coolant, wich I don't think you have. Or a restriction not allowing coolant to flow properly. What heads are you running?

440 EZ-1 Indy Aluminum Heads - Maxx Wedge Heads.....what are your thoughts on the electric fans...specifically that they are running when I'm cruising down the road at speed. I'm wondering if they're "blocking" some airflow because they're not moving as much air as would be flowing through the radiator at speed without them running????
 
532hp @ the rear wheels ... Crazy Impressive for that stated combo!

where in Ohio you live....if close enough maybe we could swap lies some time....lol I live north of Columbus by Delaware
 
Here is one on Ebya
https://www.ebay.com/itm/NOS-MoPar-...y-RADIATOR-STONE-SHIELD-2417062-/401394489459
If you can see terra firma looking down (with hood raised) in front of your radiator then you don't have one. I used a cardboard template and cut one out of 18 ga sheet. It doesn't need to have any bends just flat. Drill a few holes where you want to attach it with sheet metal screws. My 64 is currently in storage so I can't do pics of mine. The goal is to eliminate any paths of airflow around radiator.
 
Looking at the pic you posted from overhead to the ground I can see you don't have one. Airflow at speed is finding the path of least resistance going under the radiator. BTW your car is beautiful. If you make a stone shield you will want to paint it.
 
Are your fans pushing air out towards the front of the car or pulling air through the rad towards the motor?
 
Looking at the pic you posted from overhead to the ground I can see you don't have one. Airflow at speed is finding the path of least resistance going under the radiator. BTW your car is beautiful. If you make a stone shield you will want to paint it.

thanks for your help and thanks for the compliment....i went to Ebay with the link you sent and not sure I'm ready to spend $250 so I'll look into making one
 
How’s the radiator? Ever been cleaned?
 
Are your fans pushing air out towards the front of the car or pulling air through the rad towards the motor?

they're pulling air from behind the radiator
 
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