Well if you running hot at low speeds, it’s either not enough radiator, not enough fan(s), water moving too slowly or you timing is way off. Trying a smaller pulley is the absolute cheapest thing to try out first.
Where did you find the hose spring? I looked at my local parts stores with no luck. Thanks.thanks for your reply Darter6....yes, I bought a spring for the bottom hose
Well if you running hot at low speeds, it’s either not enough radiator, not enough fan(s), water moving too slowly or you timing is way off. Trying a smaller pulley is the absolute cheapest thing to try out first.
Where did you find the hose spring? I looked at my local parts stores with no luck. Thanks.
Mike
I know this is an airflow solution which goes against a water flow issue that your symptoms suggest but do you have the factory gravel shield installed. My 64 didn't have one when I bought it and I made one and it directed all the airflow through the radiator reducing my coolant temps. Just thought.
If you have had the same problem with the stock rad, then with the griffin rad and also on the dyno with fresh water being pumped into the engine and controlled I would start to look at internal possibilities. Maybe as simple as a T stat being upside down or a head gasket blocking a coolant port? Just seems weird the issue has not changed at all with better cooling parts. Just my two cents. Ow and why not try a high flow water pump might be the problem?
ColoradoDave put me on the top seal idea that I added to my '63 while hunting down my overheat issues. Some cars were equipped while others not so I had to drill the holes to install the seal. Ended up doing several things on the hike to lower temp trying different ideas. One had talked about removing the stat; but then others said a bad idea as the unimpeded coolant flow can compromise the intent of the radiator as posted above here; ya get water traveling so fast thru the rad it has no time to do its job of cooling. Added an oem shroud and 7 blade fan I bought from fellow forum members. Some after-market shrouds can be a trick as the distance btw the fan and rad can actually create an inefficiency flow for directing air to the motor. Later I was tipped to try reducing the ratio of anti-freeze to water (I want with around a 30% mix) as a higher anti-freeze mix can increase temps. Since I only drive my car in the warmer months and sits in a heated garage this wasn't an issue anyway. Then got a tip to add 'water-wetter' as well. Later I explored motor oils finding oil experts saying heavier visc oil increases temp and mutli-grade lower visc oils work just fine. Heavier visc racing oils as said, are for racing, no need for street or cruising. Did that. All in all, seemed that every tip had a positive effect in that my engine temp is some 25-degrees lower than it was. As it was my car could run all day idling; but once out on the road after some distance the temp got real hot.
To me it doesn't sound like a air flow problem or it would overheat in stop and go driving not on the highway. If the car is getting hot over 40mph you either have to much coolant flow not giving the rad time to remove heat from the coolant, wich I don't think you have. Or a restriction not allowing coolant to flow properly. What heads are you running?
532hp @ the rear wheels ... Crazy Impressive for that stated combo!
Looking at the pic you posted from overhead to the ground I can see you don't have one. Airflow at speed is finding the path of least resistance going under the radiator. BTW your car is beautiful. If you make a stone shield you will want to paint it.
Are your fans pushing air out towards the front of the car or pulling air through the rad towards the motor?
How’s the radiator? Ever been cleaned?