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'65 Ballast Resistor Removal/Bypass

GripFab

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Feb 20, 2017
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Location
Lake County, IL
Hi guys.. I've done quite a bit of searching, but I'm still unclear on how to do this.

'65 Satellite, going to MSD ready-to-run #8388 and blaster2 coil.

I have a 4-wire ballast resistor as shown..
%5BURL=http://s1308.photobucket.com/user/dielaughing2/media/Mobile Uploads/2014-01/7230B792-AC06-4148-B8C9-DD120B09B39C_zpshzwkrxxk.jpg.html][/URL]

I believe it's wired like this.. (found this pic online)
%5BURL=http://s1308.photobucket.com/user/dielaughing2/media/Mobile Uploads/2014-01/1B789F98-32A9-4E86-AE9B-6EEF8F6DC885_zps5fkpth83.jpg.html][/URL]

I don't really want it on the firewall so, I don't need to hollow it out and jumper it from the inside. I want to eliminate it and I obviously want everything to work correctly as well.

Anyone have an idea on how I should do this?

Thanks!

%5BURL=http://s1308.photobucket.com/user/dielaughing2/media/Mobile Uploads/2014-01/88D38D69-A073-4E3A-9729-31BD91E398B8_zpse5josoa9.jpg.html][/URL]

http://i1308.photobucket.com/albums...9-A073-4E3A-9729-31BD91E398B8_zpse5josoa9.jpg
 
Last edited:
I gutted out my ballast and ran a wire in place of the resistor with two male end connectors. That way I keep the ballast in place so it looks stock
 
I'm not sure what kind of voltage the alternator see's in the original wiring and how it's affected in the new wiring. I'd hate to roast something. Anyone have an ideas?
 
Take those two, double-wire connectors off the ballast resistor. Make a small piece of wire with a male spade connector at each end. Connect your two, double-wire connectors to either end of the wire you made with the two male spade connectors. Done.
 
I'm not sure what kind of voltage the alternator see's in the original wiring and how it's affected in the new wiring. I'd hate to roast something. Anyone have an ideas?

Can you show us the new wiring?

The voltage regulator should see 12V during On & Crank--even with no ballast resistor in place.
 
Hi guys.. I've done quite a bit of searching, but I'm still unclear on how to do this.

'65 Satellite, going to MSD ready-to-run #8388 and blaster2 coil.

I have a 4-wire ballast resistor as shown..
%5BURL=http://s1308.photobucket.com/user/dielaughing2/media/Mobile Uploads/2014-01/7230B792-AC06-4148-B8C9-DD120B09B39C_zpshzwkrxxk.jpg.html][/URL]

I believe it's wired like this.. (found this pic online)
%5BURL=http://s1308.photobucket.com/user/dielaughing2/media/Mobile Uploads/2014-01/1B789F98-32A9-4E86-AE9B-6EEF8F6DC885_zps5fkpth83.jpg.html][/URL]

I don't really want it on the firewall so, I don't need to hollow it out and jumper it from the inside. I want to eliminate it and I obviously want everything to work correctly as well.

Anyone have an idea on how I should do this?

Thanks!

%5BURL=http://s1308.photobucket.com/user/dielaughing2/media/Mobile Uploads/2014-01/88D38D69-A073-4E3A-9729-31BD91E398B8_zpse5josoa9.jpg.html][/URL]

http://i1308.photobucket.com/albums/s619/dielaughing2/Mobile Uploads/2014-01/88D38D69-A073-4E3A-9729-31BD91E398B8_zpse5josoa9.jpg

We were talking with the guy from Fitech several weeks ago while attending Goodguys in Scottsdale. He was saying you really need a good amp/voltage source to run his system. He said a minimal 120 amp alternator with wiring to support that amperage.

As an FYI, SoCal here in Phoenix is having a fuel injection siminar on May 3rd. I'm planning on going just for the tech information. I may someday leave the dark ages, drop using a carb and go fuel injection.
 
Take those two, double-wire connectors off the ballast resistor. Make a small piece of wire with a male spade connector at each end. Connect your two, double-wire connectors to either end of the wire you made with the two male spade connectors. Done.
Easy to make a jumper with this. If you want black so you don't see what ever color you choose cover with black heat shrink tubing.
https://www.lowes.com/pd/Morris-Products-100-Count-Disconnects-Wire-Connectors/4617962
 
tipically what ppl does is cut and splice together all the wiring related to resistor and tape it, removing the ballast HOWEVER my fav solution to keep somehow the stock look is modify the ballast. Remove the resistor on back of ceramic and sold in there ( on ceramic existant terminals ) a jumper wire, then plug everthing like is from fact
 
terminals can be removed from ceramic to get an easier and cleaner soldering job. they have a tab in front which would need to be bent
 
have a question... ( Can't recall right now )

I know MSD module needs the ign signal JUST to trigger on the Module like a remote, but the power source is taken from another wire, thicker, that they say to be sourced from batt. ON THE MODULE WIRING they take the remote signal from the same existant coil (+ lead ) wire NO MATTER if you keep the ballast or not althought everybody removes it, since is JUST A PULSE to turn it on.

Aren't the RTR dist something similar ? or they need this same signal as a full power source to make them work ?

( can't recall and too lazy to search the instructions sheet LOL )
 
( on a side note, I have for sale a NOS 65 headlight bezel for 65 Satellite, if you wish ;) LOL )
 
My RTR dizzy wouldn't run with the ballast. A simple jumper bypassed it.
 
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