65 BB 4spd wagon

[thehemikid]

I moved this wagon project to the front burner while waiting for my pushbutton tranny to get built for my 62 Dart. The tranny arrived maybe 2 wks ago but I continued on the wagon till I at least had the motor mounted somewhat so it didn't need an engine hoist. The headers that came with the motor for the wagon where requiring such a beating to fit that I ordered Schumacher Tri-Y's for it today and they'll be about a wk getting here. So back to the Dart for a while. I'll pick back up on the wagon when I run into a parts snag on the Dart.

Basicly bought a motor for the wagon and tried to get as far as I could with it till I got my Dart tranny back.

 

[thehemikid]

Headers came in Monday and I didn't realize the primaries were that small, ...1-5/8"! Wow that's small block territory to me. Anyway, gave it some thought and...493"...not gonna be a race wagon...guess I'll go ahead and use them.

 

[Darter6]

You will be surprised how well the tri-y's work .I had them on 2 different B body cars, both street driven.
499 RB and a 451 B .If I did another I would use them again.

 

[thehemikid]

Also what helped make the go ahead on the tri-y's was the supposed starter install ease (haven't yet). Like I say to my friends "What's that worth".

 

[thehemikid]

Got the trany in the Dart, so back to the wagon for a moment.

You will be surprised how well the tri-y's work .I had them on 2 different B body cars, both street driven.
499 RB and a 451 B .If I did another I would use them again.

I am surprised of how much room to spare there is. Wow! never had this much room with headers before. But I get it, the Try-Y puts them all pretty well in the same plane. Hope they perform as well as they fit!

I am wondering tho how well they'll clear the Z-bar and throwout fork. Think it'll be a little while before I get to that, and forgot to take a pic of that.

Sparkplugs were a brease compared. First time 5 & 6 wasn't a pain.

 

[Darter6]

I am wondering tho how well they'll clear the Z-bar and throwout fork

Only had them on automatics, should have room for exhaust shop to work a set of down pipes.

 

[Virg464]

Got the trany in the Dart, so back to the wagon for a moment.

I am surprised of how much room to spare there is. Wow! never had this much room with headers before. But I get it, the Try-Y puts them all pretty well in the same plane. Hope they perform as well as they fit!

I am wondering tho how well they'll clear the Z-bar and throwout fork. Think it'll be a little while before I get to that, and forgot to take a pic of that.

Sparkplugs were a brease compared. First time 5 & 6 wasn't a pain.

View attachment 1635739

View attachment 1635740

View attachment 1635741

View attachment 1635742

View attachment 1635743

View attachment 1635744

View attachment 1635745

Thats a lot of room! Might have to research them for my 66 coronet.

 

[thehemikid]

I called Schumacher and Accurate Exhaust last Wednesday. IIRC Schumacher is collecting manual shift parts for an A body to start working on the exhaust issue which appears to be the Z-bar lower arm interference with the collector . Think it was small block but I craft.

At Accurate the tech was gone for the evening so I talked with a sales lady and looked at what they do have available on line to work with. Almost ordered one of these two below to have something in hand to see what is needed next but decided to wait till I get a Z-bar somewhat installed first.

Schumacher Flange Pipe Kits for tri-y B/RB and small block h

A little bit of the reason for room is the 1-5/8" primaries but mostly they're all in the same plane and tucked tight to the motor cause they turn rather quickly once they leave the head.

Also, I'm not back on this wagon project yet, I'm still on the 62 Dart which has only a few issues till it's road worthy...ish.

 

[thehemikid]

Finely got some time for the wagon to see how the starter would fit. A bit disappointed, the header touches the bottom long bolt on the high torque starter. Sure didn't figure on having to dent the Tri-Y's! Guess they were designed around the original starters. Need to dig up one to check on that.

 

[thehemikid]

A little update on that starter bolt touching the header that I forgot to mention after that install, and is fairly important.

My flywheel is a 143 tooth, causing the starter to be moved further out into the collector. Whereas a 130 tooth combo may clear Mo better.

Sorry I didn't get back with that sooner.

 

[Krooser]

Do you have measurements for placing the trans hump in the correct spot? Maybe pix of the floor hole?

I have a welder and could fix my f/up but I'd like to at least get close on the first attempt!

My Coronet 500 was an auto console car.

Currently I was leaning on cutting the rubber mount box off the late 60 cross member and splicing it into the TKO c/memeber
that came with the car. But now I'm gonna wait till I pick up a early B c/member first and then rethink the conglomeration or
see where that positions the shifter handle. Wish I had a 65 spd c/member, anybody got a pic.

A picture story. (It only allows 10 pic's)

View attachment 1613628

View attachment 1613629

View attachment 1613630

View attachment 1613631

View attachment 1613634

View attachment 1613635

View attachment 1613636

View attachment 1613637

View attachment 1613638

View attachment 1613639

 

[thehemikid]

I don't know where the correct factory spot is.

The floor was cut and the hump just lay'n there not welded when I got the wagon late last summer. Think there was a single screw in it so I excepted that for a starting point figured they/whoever/PPO had a motor in at some point in the past and sinse the carpet had the hole already cut and showed where someone had installed once I let that verify somewhat the hump also. Worked out to be pretty close cause once the motor/trans got in and adjusted with the trans mount, the shifter comes out fairly close to the center of the hole. So, I'll nail down the hump later when I get the starter collector ironed out.

Are you asking for pix of the floor hole with carpet removed. If so that's a bit tuff at the moment. Carpets still down, bench seat installed, ( to see if shifter hits seat, ...cleared.) and the car is between 2 other cars whereas a little hard to get the doors opened enough to work on that,...at the moment. It is on jack stands tho to do the starter/collector work.

This is a back burner project that i work on when my main projects get 2blocked. But I'll be back on not too long form now to look at the starter/collector again. Of which I don't have to open doors.

I'll help what I can, How soon do you need info.

 

[Krooser]

I don't know where the correct factory spot is.

The floor was cut and the hump just lay'n there not welded when I got the wagon late last summer. Think there was a single screw in it so I excepted that for a starting point figured they/whoever/PPO had a motor in at some point in the past and sinse the carpet had the hole already cut and showed where someone had installed once I let that verify somewhat the hump also. Worked out to be pretty close cause once the motor/trans got in and adjusted with the trans mount, the shifter comes out fairly close to the center of the hole. So, I'll nail down the hump later when I get the starter collector ironed out.

Are you asking for pix of the floor hole with carpet removed. If so that's a bit tuff at the moment. Carpets still down, bench seat installed, ( to see if shifter hits seat, ...cleared.) and the car is between 2 other cars whereas a little hard to get the doors opened enough to work on that,...at the moment. It is on jack stands tho to do the starter/collector work.

This is a back burner project that i work on when my main projects get 2blocked. But I'll be back on not too long form now to look at the starter/collector again. Of which I don't have to open doors.

I'll help what I can, How soon do you need info.

My plan is to install the running gear then poke a hole in the floor from the bottom to get a starting point .

I have seen a few floor hump installs that were pretty shady...ragged edges, huge holes patched back, etc.

I'm trying to get a close to factory install .

Any photos would help... Even a measurement from the firewall to the shift handle would help.

 

[thehemikid]

My floor pan has jagged edges also that PPO had not trimmed, especially the flat part that's close to the shifter linkages. Which was a bit too close for comfort while installing those linkages. Thankful they cut too little rather than too much. I'll trim those later.

The trans cross member mount will pretty well determine where the shifter/hump goes. Evan tho mine is a custom made weldment (stolen spare part from another one of my early B projects) it appears close to a factory piece. Pic from post #19 below. I can get that 9/16 shifter bolt center line to cross member front surface measurement without to much trouble. Would that do for now.

 

[thehemikid]

Crawled under for some measurements and pix for Krooser and was reminded that even tho I have some trimming to do I also have some patch work to do after seeing the blue carpet showing. Arg!

Also where someone trimmed the cross member a bit too much around the shifter in pic 5

Again I didn't cut this hump hole, was like this when I got it,...but I'll fix it somewhat.

That nut in pic 6, I don't think is touching the shifter. I think it's the pic angle plus the nut is not tightened down cause the lock washers not seated.

 

[thehemikid]

Krooser, ...does any of those pix or measurements help?

 

[thehemikid]

Krooser?

Mean while back at the ranch,...waiting on brake parts for the 330,...I took another look at the wagon header/starter gap. Applied some persuasion to the collector and really hated doing that to a new header.

Which brings me to the conclusion of a 130 tooth flywheel/bell housing combo should be a better way to go with these automatic only headers. Schumacher is supposedly tooling up on some 4 spd headers and I mentioned (a while back) if they were to just cock that collector a few degrees before they weld it to the tubes it would probably clear even the 143 tooth combo. I guess they could change the collector flange accordingly, but I also realize they are dealing/engineering with the Z-bar too, and I may go Hydraulic.

Anyway, the right side appears can work as is. Would be nice if it were mid way between the bell and T-bar, but it'll do.