65 Belvedere brakes

[Old Biker Trash]

I've been battling the brakes on my Belvedere for more than 4 months and about ready to give up and just throw an anchor out the window to stop. Bought a kit from Right Stuff for front disc, rear drum, power assist. They have never worked and the wagon is not safe to drive. I've changed the 1 1/8 master cyl to a 15/16 which improved but failed after about 5 miles, lowered the booster 1" because the hood wouldn't shut if booster is installed in the stock position and still poor brakes. Right Stuff finally said that, indeed, their kit would NOT work with the booster they sold and they have no answer. Their mistake and they would refund money. Problem: now what??!!?? Can I pull the booster, toss it in the junk and mount the master cylinder direct to firewall and call it a day? Can I try to find a 65 booster (good luck) as I'm told only a 65 will work. Find an alternate booster? Will my pedal assembly (ratio) work with a aftermarket booster? I know there is a lot of knowledge on this site and this can't be the first time this has happened. All ideas welcome except the boat anchor idea.

 

[Billccm]

Perhaps an email to Dr Diff. He might be able to assist as his kit is similar to the right stuff.

 

[Old Biker Trash]

Perhaps an email to Dr Diff. He might be able to assist as his kit is similar to the right stuff.

Ed at Right Stuff said he has talked to Dr Diff and they didn't have an answer. I kinda think its in the booster cantaliver assembly that is the problem. I was hoping somebody could say "just put on a ?? year booster and your problems would be solved". I will try to contact this guy myself. Thanks

 

[NJRR]

Was your car a power brake car before? The actual brakes on the car ( front calipers and rear wheel cylinders) don't know if there's a brake booster or not as long as they're getting the proper pressure. So, I can't see why you can't mount a manual master cylinder to the firewall ( might need an adaptor plate). You might need a new brake push rod too, they make adjustable ones if you're not sure of the length, but I'm not sure of the positioning of the pedal. You have to make sure that the configuration on your brake line connections is correct ( facing engine or facing fender) and also the size of the brake line fittings. I would stick with a 15/16" bore master, which is what I used with my manual setup. There are quite a few threads on the forum discussing the bore size. I initially bought a 1 1/8" master before I read all those threads, but ended up not even mounting it and just getting a 15/16" bore. The unused one is sitting in a box. Good luck.

 

[Old Biker Trash]

Was your car a power brake car before? The actual brakes on the car ( front calipers and rear wheel cylinders) don't know if there's a brake booster or not as long as they're getting the proper pressure. So, I can't see why you can't mount a manual master cylinder to the firewall ( might need an adaptor plate). You might need a new brake push rod too, they make adjustable ones if you're not sure of the length, but I'm not sure of the positioning of the pedal. You have to make sure that the configuration on your brake line connections is correct ( facing engine or facing fender) and also the size of the brake line fittings. I would stick with a 15/16" bore master, which is what I used with my manual setup. There are quite a few threads on the forum discussing the bore size. I initially bought a 1 1/8" master before I read all those threads, but ended up not even mounting it and just getting a 15/16" bore. The unused one is sitting in a box. Good luck.

Thanks, think I will do exactly as you suggest!!

 

[rlem1977]

Might talk with SSBC or look at using a hydroboost/hydratech assist.