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65 coronet N/SS Car

ksurfer2

ksurfer2

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I may be pulling the trigger on a new car this weekend. Curious about what the experts think. Anyone out there know of this car?

https://www.streetsideclassics.com/vehicles/1975-tpa/1965-dodge-coronet-426-max-wedge

Since the car is local to me, I went and looked at it over the weekend. Body and interior are in fantastic shape. From the VIN, the car was originally a 318 car that was converted. It is claimed to have a true 426 max wedge motor in it. The number on the block is 2468030-4. I did a quick search of this number and it does not show as a max wedge block on this site:

https://racehemi.maxwedge.com/topics/castings.php

But it does show up as a 413 or 426 RB block on this site:

http://www.stockmopar.com/mopar-engine-casting-numbers.html

What is the difference between the the max wedge and the 413/426?

Based on what you can see, do you think the price listed is fair? I do not yet know the particulars of the internals of the motor, they are reaching out to the previous owner who built it to find out. The car currently belongs to an older guy up north who claims it had never been raced.

Any help is appreciated.

Thanks
 
It looks very good. I'd forget all about the max wedge credentials if I were you. The car is a conglomeration of really nice parts to make a re-creation. I see all kinds of substitutions tho, and there's really no way to guess the true value of something that was never really meant to be, meaning a '65 max wedge anyway, with a '67 steering wheel, many aftermarket add-ons to the engine, non-original pan, non original water pump housing, headers, etc. etc. Remember i said it looked very good tho, meaning I like it, but it's definately not a vintage racer or anything, but its a good looking recreation so who knows the value!!?? BTW, the VIN looks to be glued on, which can be a whole nuther can of worms.
 
Very nice car but as stated above, not original anything. No max wedges in '65... lots of non stock stuff etc. For me it's way over priced, but maybe not for you. It all depends on how much you want that particular car. Could you have one built like that for those $$ ? Probably not, but it's your pocket book not mine. The VIN looks OK to me. VIN plates were tacked on with no rivets in the early to mid '60s and that one looks to be applied just like the one on my '64.
 
I agree with Centerline. Honest opinion, Work them on the price. I'm sure they have it marked up over the previous owners selling price.I expect close to 10 grand. Non original early "B's" don't bring more than about $38 grand max.
Your question on the Max vs. 413/426 engines were the heads,intake compression and cam.The blocks are relatively the same other than 13 cube difference.
Now if it is what you want and can afford it,work 'um on a number. There is a dealer with a very high tech 64 Dodge in Henderson Nevada. Hemi,Fuel injected,all the bells and whistles. They have had it over a year now starting price was at close to $100 grand.Current price is now in the upper $60's.
 
My 1st drag car(1974) was a '65 Coronet post car, original 426 Street Wedge 4 spd car. Loved the thing. As previously stated, that is a great looking car, but not an original combination, BTW that's not a "roll cage", it's a roll bar. Max Wedge heads, did you check the casting #'s? Very pretty car, your check book decides the value.
 
Car looks really clean and looks like plenty of cash spent to make a nice max wedge vehicle but as others said recreation. I'd say mid to upper 20's as a starting point. Dealers are always marked up way over what they pay for it knowing it is a beginning bargaining point. Doesn't hurt to offer 25% less or so to see what you can get it for. Depends how much you like the car and willing to pay.
 
Depending on what you intend to do with it.
If you intend to drive it around at all, you really should add air filters.
How comfortable are you with the manual steering?
The manual brakes should be fine.
I really can't comment on the value but it is pretty cool.
 
A guy I work with went to the local Streetside Classics here in Nashville about letting them sale his car. They said they automatically tack on 15-18 percent over what the owner actually wants to get for the car. 10 percent is for them and the other 5-8 percent is to haggle on. If they want to sale it bad enough they will cut in to there 10 percent to do it.
 
ksurfer2 said:
I may be pulling the trigger on a new car this weekend. Curious about what the experts think. Anyone out there know of this car?

https://www.streetsideclassics.com/vehicles/1975-tpa/1965-dodge-coronet-426-max-wedge

Since the car is local to me, I went and looked at it over the weekend. Body and interior are in fantastic shape. From the VIN, the car was originally a 318 car that was converted. It is claimed to have a true 426 max wedge motor in it. The number on the block is 2468030-4. I did a quick search of this number and it does not show as a max wedge block on this site:

https://racehemi.maxwedge.com/topics/castings.php

But it does show up as a 413 or 426 RB block on this site:

http://www.stockmopar.com/mopar-engine-casting-numbers.html

What is the difference between the the max wedge and the 413/426?

Based on what you can see, do you think the price listed is fair? I do not yet know the particulars of the internals of the motor, they are reaching out to the previous owner who built it to find out. The car currently belongs to an older guy up north who claims it had never been raced.

Any help is appreciated.

Thanks
Click to expand...
Nice car. But before I would spend the money I would see the car in person, drive it and make sure everything works. No scratched glass, windows go up down fit and finish of interior. Good luck .
 
Do you want to buy it as a race car or as a street car or as an investment? It is set up as a race car so it most likely isn't going to be much fun to drive as is on the street. It is a really pretty car for a race car so unless you're set up with a really nice trailer it might get trashed if you race it a lot. If you're going to buy it as a street car for going to shows and stuff then you'll need to know more about the engine to see if it can even be driven on pump gas.
 
ksurfer2 said:
I may be pulling the trigger on a new car this weekend. Curious about what the experts think. Anyone out there know of this car?

https://www.streetsideclassics.com/vehicles/1975-tpa/1965-dodge-coronet-426-max-wedge

Since the car is local to me, I went and looked at it over the weekend. Body and interior are in fantastic shape. From the VIN, the car was originally a 318 car that was converted. It is claimed to have a true 426 max wedge motor in it. The number on the block is 2468030-4. I did a quick search of this number and it does not show as a max wedge block on this site:

https://racehemi.maxwedge.com/topics/castings.php

But it does show up as a 413 or 426 RB block on this site:

http://www.stockmopar.com/mopar-engine-casting-numbers.html

What is the difference between the the max wedge and the 413/426?

Based on what you can see, do you think the price listed is fair? I do not yet know the particulars of the internals of the motor, they are reaching out to the previous owner who built it to find out. The car currently belongs to an older guy up north who claims it had never been raced.

Any help is appreciated.

Thanks
Click to expand...
I would check casting numbers on the heads and intake. Is this high compression motor or low? Has carter carbs but what number? No MSD, has vacuum distributor and stock coil. Drum brakes in back. 727 is probably not manual valve body with column shift. What converter? Lots of things to consider, but to high of a price for what it is in my opinion. Check out cars-online.com & compare prices against this car. Good luck.
 
I think it is a very nice looking car but I just don't know what they were trying to build. It has a rollbar with side bars so it looks like a race car but it has a full exhaust out the back, a 8 3/4 rearend and the rear tires are street tires. So if it is a street car why put the side bars in the car that make it difficult to get in and out of? If it is a race car then why is there a 8 3/4 rear end, street tires and full exhaust on the car?

Personally I think the car is too nice to race. If it was mine I'd remove those side bars and just leave the roll bar behind the seat. Then you can drive the car on the street and your wife won't be complaining every time she has to crawl over the bars. Of course, that assumes that the engine can even be driven on the street. Those cross rams are not fun as a daily driver. I learned that lesson years ago when I tried that trick!
 
/my 2 cents, don't anybody get offended. :elmer:
Seems like everytime, on any board I see anybody asking about something's value, WIW, should I buy, etc, the answer is rarely "go for it". It's always, "that's high", or "check the pedigree". That's why I usually won't say a word about actual numbers. Seems like whenever I'm the one considering to buy something, it's always priced thru the roof. (although there are exceptions, and I appreciate those sellers to this day). I can't speak for all of us, but I'd bet most of could'nt produce this car for 35K, and even less of us could build it in a timely fashion, which adds to the value, IMO. Just sayin
 
So here is where I am at with this car. I did go and look at it since it is only about 15 minutes from my house. It is in VERY nice shape. There are a few very minor paint blemishes, there is a minor gap issue with the deck lid (something you would only notice if you were looking for it). When I left the showroom, the instructions I left with the sales guy was to reach out to the owner/previous owner to get all specs on the motor....compression ratio, cam specs, heads, torque converter, etc.

My ultimate goal is to have a nice car that will see limited street duty...local shows/cruise nights, take the wife to get ice cream, etc. Luckily, my wife is totally into old race cars, so the door bar is not an issue for her, if fact, I think she likes it even more because of it. The car will also make occasional trips to the strip to race. Over time, it may be converted to more race car than street car, and this car seems to be a great foundation for the car I would like to have moving forward.

Based on the research I have been doing about the car, current values of similar cars, I am of the opinion that the advertised price is WAY out of line. The sales guy is supposed to call me back today or tomorrow with more info on the car. At that point we will have a discussion about price. If he is not willing to come down by at least $10k, I don't see that I will move forward and wait to see what else comes along.
 
The big issue is driving it, does it do want YO want it do.

Value? My take is it is worth what a 318 car of that model sells for, in that condition, PLUS what you could sell the max wedge stuff for. Add those together.

Would be worth more as a tribute, IF the car was a year that the MW was available.
 
ksurfer2 said:
So here is where I am at with this car. I did go and look at it since it is only about 15 minutes from my house. It is in VERY nice shape. There are a few very minor paint blemishes, there is a minor gap issue with the deck lid (something you would only notice if you were looking for it). When I left the showroom, the instructions I left with the sales guy was to reach out to the owner/previous owner to get all specs on the motor....compression ratio, cam specs, heads, torque converter, etc.

My ultimate goal is to have a nice car that will see limited street duty...local shows/cruise nights, take the wife to get ice cream, etc. Luckily, my wife is totally into old race cars, so the door bar is not an issue for her, if fact, I think she likes it even more because of it. The car will also make occasional trips to the strip to race. Over time, it may be converted to more race car than street car, and this car seems to be a great foundation for the car I would like to have moving forward.

Based on the research I have been doing about the car, current values of similar cars, I am of the opinion that the advertised price is WAY out of line. The sales guy is supposed to call me back today or tomorrow with more info on the car. At that point we will have a discussion about price. If he is not willing to come down by at least $10k, I don't see that I will move forward and wait to see what else comes along.
Click to expand...

It would cost more than what they are asking to build a car like that so the price is certainly fair. If you think you can buy it cheaper then good for you but I can't see how you're going to get it for $10K less than asking price unless the seller is just desperate for cash. If I owned that car I doubt I'd sell it for less than $40K. If people didn't want to pay $40K I'd tell them to go build their own. I helped build a similar car this past year and the owner ended up with $80K in the car. I probably have more than $50K invested in my '65 Coronet and my car doesn't look as nice as the one in the ad. But mine has better parts so maybe it is a wash.

I think the real issue is if you actually like how that car drives. I think the car looks really nice but my guess is that it doesn't drive very nice based on what I can see in the pictures. So for me I'd pay that price for the car if it really drove nice but I'm pretty sure it doesn't. You won't know until they let you drive the thing. I'd hate to see someone pay that much money for a car and then hate it as soon as they drove it. It would take a bunch more money to fix how it drives so you have to factor that in.
 
This is how I see our hobby from 30 yrs in it. Just my opinion. Many or most Mopar hobbiest see it as a hobby, therefore IF they restore a car or build a clone, whatever they generally do, no one hardly really expect to sell it and recoup their $$$$. If they did all the labor, with the right project they might make a few $ or break even. Just my opinion.
If I have the choice of building a car VS buying that same car already built to my standards, and IF I could buy it done for what it costs me to build it, I would have to figure I did not have to put in time an labor to that built car. If I build it myself or even pay a shop to do the work I know what I have built and what I have. Did I get any satisfaction from doing my own build? or.. How about instant gradification?
Many cars that are restored to oem or clones, hotrods, etc.. don't bring the $$ it took to build them.
It takes the same $$ to restore a REAL car vs the clone, except the difference is cost of that original real project car.

I measure the value if my cars, that are just inexpensive hobby cars, as the amount of fun I get from them. The enjoyment driving, or the fun I get building.
 
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