65 coronet N/SS Car

[chooch]

tried sending pms but your box is full.

So here is where I am at with this car. I did go and look at it since it is only about 15 minutes from my house. It is in VERY nice shape. There are a few very minor paint blemishes, there is a minor gap issue with the deck lid (something you would only notice if you were looking for it). When I left the showroom, the instructions I left with the sales guy was to reach out to the owner/previous owner to get all specs on the motor....compression ratio, cam specs, heads, torque converter, etc.

My ultimate goal is to have a nice car that will see limited street duty...local shows/cruise nights, take the wife to get ice cream, etc. Luckily, my wife is totally into old race cars, so the door bar is not an issue for her, if fact, I think she likes it even more because of it. The car will also make occasional trips to the strip to race. Over time, it may be converted to more race car than street car, and this car seems to be a great foundation for the car I would like to have moving forward.

Based on the research I have been doing about the car, current values of similar cars, I am of the opinion that the advertised price is WAY out of line. The sales guy is supposed to call me back today or tomorrow with more info on the car. At that point we will have a discussion about price. If he is not willing to come down by at least $10k, I don't see that I will move forward and wait to see what else comes along.

 

[BBishere2]

This is just my opinion, nothing more.

It’s obvious that a good deal of money was spent on this car to make it look like an A-990 factory super stock racer - which it is not. The old guy up north said it had never been raced - he may not have raced it, but that is what it looks set up to do and I would guess that it has been ran, maybe not a lot, but some.

For what I paid for my ‘65 and what I’ve seen out there for sale, this one appears to be over-priced by several thousand unless you don’t want to do any work on it - providing the drivetrain is solid - and just want to get in it and drive off, paying a premium for that.

As far as how much it cost to build something similar, we all know if you add up parts and labor on these cars, selling them is usually a losing proposition to one extent or another.

You can buy a good car to start with and build it yourself. The main benefit of this is you know how it is put together and who did it. I lucked out on mine - it had been raced and in the same family for years. They knew what they were doing and built a very strong and streetable vehicle. I’ve made a few tweaks to it to make it ‘my’ car but nothing major save for a reverse band issue.

Good luck whatever your decision is. I think the ‘65’s are one of the best years for Dodge and hope you enjoy yours as I do mine.

 

[ksurfer2]

tried sending pms but your box is full.

Box is empty now.

 

[383man]

It is a good looking car for sure. I agree its a bit over priced as to me the market is down a little on prices now also. But then the what would it cost to build question ? That depends on how much you can do yourself of course but if you pay a shop to build that car it wont be much cheaper when they add in parts and labor. I built my 63 you see here myself as I bought the car with the original 383 in it. It has the same paint on it that was on it when I bought it in 2003. And I bought it very cheap because I do work on the guys other cars so I worked the price down real cheap. My car is a street/strip car that's 99% street and then I race it about twice a year. And this car could be a car like mine that's street/strip real easy. Depending on how fast you want to go will have a lot to do with the money you spend so I would want to know everything I could about the eng because if you buy it and the eng is not as strong as you want then you will be pulling the eng to build it as you like. I can tell you I spent about 12k on my 63 in just parts as I did all the work myself. But the 12 K is just parts to build my 727 trans and my 8-3/4 rear and the 440/493 eng. I am sure if I paid a shop to build it they would mark up the parts prices and with labor I would bet it could be around 30k. Bottom line is that looks like a nice car and it would be nice to know just what is in the eng build. I would try to get the price down some though if you really want to buy it and I like the car so if it looks good to you I wish you good luck on getting the price down a bit. Good luck. Ron

 

[barbee6043]

Bottom line is basically, either is buy a pretty nice car already done at a discounted price from a knowlegable, honest individual, , or build it yourself and pay yourself nothing for labor!!! Otherwise, try to negotiate a price on the car you want from the business that sells people's cars on commission??? Which can be like dealing with a new car store!!?????
At any rate, we all want to have a car we love and can afford.

 

[fratzog lover]

You won't know until they let you drive the thing. I'd hate to see someone pay that much money for a car and then hate it as soon as they drove it. It would take a bunch more money to fix how it drives so you have to factor that in.

Having never owned one, how rambunctious are these Max Wedge motors on the street? If it is high compression, how much fun will it be trying to get an acceptable street tune? Then again, is it likely a dealer and seller will agree to a test drive? That might be a reality check, then again it might be a lower compression engine with a sensible cam.

 

[barbee6043]

Way back bout 2002 or so a friend of a friend ( Mopar friends) told me of a 68 GTX that came from Ca. to Mo. with the owner, a pro mechanic , that had built the car. That guy sold it to a guy and he wanted to sell it. It even had been on cover of Car Craft or something once. Well I go to sell it in the dead of winner it s is like above, I am headed to a job and it is 6 AM.
The engine was a 10:1 440 with stage 3 MW head and intake correct carbs, etc. It has manual chokes, he starts it, fires right up, lets it warm up, and drives off great. It had a MW cam he called it, noting radical about what I would guess to be a 509? I pulled the MW parts, the high stall convertor, sold all that and put it back stock and sold it after a while.
Just my only experience with the MW other than a few engines I found and fliped years back.

 

[andyf]

Having never owned one, how rambunctious are these Max Wedge motors on the street? If it is high compression, how much fun will it be trying to get an acceptable street tune? Then again, is it likely a dealer and seller will agree to a test drive? That might be a reality check, then again it might be a lower compression engine with a sensible cam.

An original MW wedge is zero fun on the street with super high compression and big cam and that cross ram intake. You can't even find gas for those anymore unless you buy drums of unleaded racing gas. Adding a 4.25 stroke tames them down some and then using a modern hyd roller cam would be a big help. The intake is a big bathtub that fills up with gas on cold starts. EFI would be a big help but not too many people do that. The real insult is that those motors don't make a lot of power since that intake doesn't work all that great. A big single 4bbl intake will make more power than the crossram and cost a lot less. But they do look cool and that is what is important to a lot of people. I ran one for years then moved on after doing a bunch of dyno testing. We picked up a lot of power by switching to a big single 4bbl and the car ran a lot better.

 

[BBishere2]

Having never owned one, how rambunctious are these Max Wedge motors on the street? If it is high compression, how much fun will it be trying to get an acceptable street tune? Then again, is it likely a dealer and seller will agree to a test drive? That might be a reality check, then again it might be a lower compression engine with a sensible cam.

Max wedge engine uses different cylinder heads and intake manifold than the regular wedge engines. The intake runners are taller and wider for air flow. A low compression engine with a mild cam with those heads would not be streetable. I think to run on the street, you would be better off with a good set of aluminum wedge heads and a good single 4 barrel intake. You guys that race and are more familiar with a max wedge please chime in, if I’m wrong about that.

 

[383man]

For my 63 I built an Indy EZ aluminum head 440 stroker of 493 cubes and I use the Indy dual plane intake with a Holley 850 DP. I also run a solid flat tappet cam that's a custom grind to help keep my cyl pressure pump gas friendly. Its 264 & 270 @ .050 with .585 & .592 lift and a 110 LSA. And my comp is 10.6. And its a very street friendly driving eng. I drive and race it on 92 pump and it has great driveabilty and street manners and runs fine at the track. I am always thinking of going to the crossram because it gives that awesome Max Wedge look but it just runs and drives so good on this setup I don't know if I will ever go to the crossram. Ron

 

[barbee6043]

Lets face it, dual carb and six pacs are basically eye candy, nothing more. Like anything, they an be made to work on the street just fine.

 

[Dan64]

For my 63 I built an Indy EZ aluminum head 440 stroker of 493 cubes and I use the Indy dual plane intake with a Holley 850 DP. I also run a solid flat tappet cam that's a custom grind to help keep my cyl pressure pump gas friendly. Its 264 & 270 @ .050 with .585 & .592 lift and a 110 LSA. And my comp is 10.6. And its a very street friendly driving eng. I drive and race it on 92 pump and it has great driveabilty and street manners and runs fine at the track. I am always thinking of going to the crossram because it gives that awesome Max Wedge look but it just runs and drives so good on this setup I don't know if I will ever go to the crossram. Ron 383 man ,love your car. I'm also building a 493 for my 64' Polara and i'm currently trying to address manifold & carb height / hood clearance . With your Indy dual plane how much clearance do you have under that stock style max wedge hood scoop?. I have the same scoop and don't really want to have to run a super tall one. Your heads and intake are max wedge sized ,right?.

View attachment 835042

 

[moobster]

I'm running a 413 Max Wedge on the street. Max Wedge intake, M/W heads, M/W 750cfm 3705 Carter's, 9.0:1 compression, and a 4 speed. The car has great street manners and runs 12.2's at the track on street tires(radial TA's), thru the mufflers on 89 octane pump gas.
Don't be afraid to stagger jet your carbs, you can stagger the needles and the vacuum springs too. It's all about checking plug readings through out the rpm ranges.

 

[383man]

Dana64 I don't have much room at all. I have maybe a 1/4" between the top of the air cleaner and the center of the scoop which is not much higher then the hood. My heads are the Basic Indy EZ heads that are opened to Max Wedge size. I would say I cant fit any taller intake under my hood. Ron

 

[glassman]

I may be pulling the trigger on a new car this weekend. Curious about what the experts think. Anyone out there know of this car?

https://www.streetsideclassics.com/vehicles/1975-tpa/1965-dodge-coronet-426-max-wedge

Since the car is local to me, I went and looked at it over the weekend. Body and interior are in fantastic shape. From the VIN, the car was originally a 318 car that was converted. It is claimed to have a true 426 max wedge motor in it. The number on the block is 2468030-4. I did a quick search of this number and it does not show as a max wedge block on this site:

https://racehemi.maxwedge.com/topics/castings.php

But it does show up as a 413 or 426 RB block on this site:

http://www.stockmopar.com/mopar-engine-casting-numbers.html

What is the difference between the the max wedge and the 413/426?

Based on what you can see, do you think the price listed is fair? I do not yet know the particulars of the internals of the motor, they are reaching out to the previous owner who built it to find out. The car currently belongs to an older guy up north who claims it had never been raced.

Any help is appreciated.

Thanks

Nice 65 Dodge dressed up like a 62-63-64 Maxwedge car . If that car had a Hemi and Cross Ram , it would be fantastic. But it is nice the way it is. There is a lot of detail to the finish work and paint. Lots of wax on those tires. It's also dressed up like a N/SS car , but it looks like a nice street cruiser. $44000 for a street cruiser? It's your money.

 

[stage3]

1966 hemi car for less $$$...b body.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/1966-Dodge-Coronet/283618191426?hash=item4208f62842:g:KPgAAOSwBQ1dgkLN