65 satellite killing coils.

[65PlymSatellite]

Then I would still lean back to its the brown wire getting voltage when it shouldn't be. Which could be internal to the ign switch.
But right now it's not.
And your batt voltage is very low.

I thought I’d eliminate this possibility with a new engine harness

 

[Bee1971]

Post 42 and 50

That brown wire some how is staying in full power off the ignition switch to that side of the ballast resistor when it shouldn’t , in turn supplying full power to the blue wire on the positive side of coil in the run position , in turn basically eliminating your ballast resistor

That brown wire back to your ignition switch is key , no pun intended

It should have full power in the start position only

Nothing in the run position

 

[Bee1971]

How about the bulkhead connectors and Wiring going back to Ignition Switch

 

[65PlymSatellite]

Post 42 and 50

That brown wire some how is staying in full power off the ignition switch to that side of the ballast resistor when it shouldn’t , in turn supplying full power to the blue wire on the positive side of coil in the run position , in turn basically eliminating your ballast resistor

That brown wire back to your ignition switch is key , no pun intended

It should have full power in the start position only

Nothing in the run position

Yea I'm thinking I just have to buy a new dash harness. Those things aren't cheap!

 

[Fran Blacker]

Followed this thread some so can't believe it's not fixed. Ballast resistor remove to see if it's bypassed. The 14 volt at coil trace that back make sure no one snuck a 12 volt wire in there even under tape. The impossible ignition switch plug put on some how wrong?

 

[Bee1971]

Yea I'm thinking I just have to buy a new dash harness. Those things aren't cheap!

No

Can you trace that brown wire from your bulkhead connector back to the ignition switch under your dash

Like mentioned remove tape if you have to

You know your engine harness is brand new

Do you have any accessories added within your interior that requires power

 

[65PlymSatellite]

No

Can you trace that brown wire from your bulkhead connector back to the ignition switch under your dash

Like mentioned remove tape if you have to

You know your engine harness is brand new

Do you have any accessories added within your interior that requires power

Yea I'm just going to have to chase that wire down, definitely cheaper!

No other accessories, the radio isn't even in.

 

[old guys rule]

In the "start" position, the ignition switch electrically bypasses the ballast resistor applying full battery voltage to the coil yielding a hotter more intense spark to get engine started. When in the "run" position, the ballast resistor is electrically in series with the coil reducing the voltage applied to the coil. If you are seeing full battery voltage on both sides of the ballast resistor in the "run" position you likely have a problem with your ignition switch which may be why you are having coil issues.

I had a car once that would start on its own when I closed the driver's door. It was the ignition switch. Worth a try.

 

[65PlymSatellite]

I had a car once that would start on its own when I closed the driver's door. It was the ignition switch. Worth a try.

So far, I’ve changed coil, ballast, voltage regulator, ignition switch, and engine harness.

 

[BigFlo]

Unplug the resistor and check resistance

Did you check resistance on both ballast resistors to rule them out?

 

[65PlymSatellite]

Did you check resistance on both ballast resistors to rule them out?

I did. Maybe I did it wrong, though...? Whats the best way to test these? 12v to inlet of ballast, and read what output voltage I'm getting?

 

[BigFlo]

The easiest way is to disconnect the wires from both terminals and measure the resistance with the Ohms setting on your multimeter. Different manufacturers may have different resistances, depending on make and application but they are typically between about 1 ohm and 5 ohms. If you know the make and pn of yours, you should be able to find out what it should read.

 

[Bee1971]

Posts #46 thru #50
Proper readings then on the Ballast Resistor with those pictures

That’s why I keep saying trace that brown wire from the firewall back to the ignition switch

Maybe the new ignition switch is bad

Don’t know until you finish tracing and ohm reading individual wires under the dash to your bulkhead connections

 

[65PlymSatellite]

Hello who are interested.

A couple months ago I contacted @HALIFAXHOPS for a new Coil, Ballast, Rotor, condenser, and points.

Started with just the ballast and coil and the issues have seemed to STOP. Apart from the coils getting crazy hot, the car would sputter and cough upon acceleration and sometimes even turn off completely. Now with the new coil and ballast, the car responds great (as great as a stock 273 2BBL can) accelerates great, speeds up great and NO ISSUES!! No more crazy hot coil, just warm from use. I don't believe the ballast was the issue, I'm assuming the parts store coil was crap from the box. It was a Standard brand from NAPA.

I've driven it a ton since the new coil and ballast and not a single issue! Sucks you can't just go to the store and buy a coil anymore, and all this really makes me wanna get an electronic distributor and HEI module for the 440 I got coming.

Hope this helps someone else in the future.

 

[Geoff 2]

Thanks for updating. It also helps others.

 

[HALIFAXHOPS]

Have to watch even Standard now run from thier parts that end with a T They are the cheaper line.