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66 Charger drivetrain overhaul - time for some changes
- Thread starter Don Frelier
- Start date
Nice heads!
So Don, forgive the dumb question but I want to understand what you did.
So it looks like you used #6 (which should be at TDC at the same time as #1). OK. that makes sense, but I don't get the angle iron and the bolt. To get TDC, the piston has to rise to it's highest point. So the bolt could not have been a stop, but perhaps you used it as a reference (i.e. when the piston touched the bolt)?
I have used a magnetic dial caliper gauge (or a fancier one like below when I have had access) to measure TDC by seeing when the needle stopped moving. Also, there is some piston dwell at TDC as well (different for different engines).
Can you describe your method? I have to check my cam timing as soon as my cam comes in, so this is great time to check my balancer marks as well.
Thanks!
Hawk
So Don, forgive the dumb question but I want to understand what you did.
So it looks like you used #6 (which should be at TDC at the same time as #1). OK. that makes sense, but I don't get the angle iron and the bolt. To get TDC, the piston has to rise to it's highest point. So the bolt could not have been a stop, but perhaps you used it as a reference (i.e. when the piston touched the bolt)?
I have used a magnetic dial caliper gauge (or a fancier one like below when I have had access) to measure TDC by seeing when the needle stopped moving. Also, there is some piston dwell at TDC as well (different for different engines).
Can you describe your method? I have to check my cam timing as soon as my cam comes in, so this is great time to check my balancer marks as well.
Thanks!
Hawk
I did use it as a stop.
I rotated the crank until the piston hit and then took painters tape from the 0 mark on the balancer to the 0 mark on the timing cover.
Rolled the engine the other way and transferred the piece of tape to the other side of the balancer. It should have been equidistant on the 0 mark on the timing cover but it was closer to the 5 ATDC degree mark. So splitting the difference the new balancer should be 2.5 degrees off. (I wasnt that precise)
But it is possible there is a slight difference between #6 and #1 on the crank.
I did do it with a dial indicator back when the motor was rebuilt in 1997 and the original balancer was almost exactly at 0 at TDC.
The only reason I used 6 was that I already had the other head installed.
I was overly anxious to get something done a week ago.
When I degreed the cam the balancer was not installed yet and I did use the piston stop on #1 but only to zero the degree wheel.
Tough to see but the little line around 2.5 is where I believe the 0 mark needs to be on the timing cover.
And yes the dwell at TDC can cause uncertainty as well, that's why I used the piston stop.
Remember I'm just a guy in a garage not a machinist.
I rotated the crank until the piston hit and then took painters tape from the 0 mark on the balancer to the 0 mark on the timing cover.
Rolled the engine the other way and transferred the piece of tape to the other side of the balancer. It should have been equidistant on the 0 mark on the timing cover but it was closer to the 5 ATDC degree mark. So splitting the difference the new balancer should be 2.5 degrees off. (I wasnt that precise)
But it is possible there is a slight difference between #6 and #1 on the crank.
I did do it with a dial indicator back when the motor was rebuilt in 1997 and the original balancer was almost exactly at 0 at TDC.
The only reason I used 6 was that I already had the other head installed.
I was overly anxious to get something done a week ago.
When I degreed the cam the balancer was not installed yet and I did use the piston stop on #1 but only to zero the degree wheel.
Tough to see but the little line around 2.5 is where I believe the 0 mark needs to be on the timing cover.
And yes the dwell at TDC can cause uncertainty as well, that's why I used the piston stop.
Remember I'm just a guy in a garage not a machinist.
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Rolling the engine the opposite way - that's the piece I was missing! And yes, that method makes sense.
I can't imagine that #6 would be different, that would screw up the timing a bit if it was, so your method makes sense to me.
Thanks for the description!
Hawk
padam
Well-Known Member
What balancer did you get?
It's a Pioneer I believe (I bought it several years ago).
I'll take a picture of the box.
I'll take a picture of the box.
Balancer
Getting closer.
Painted and rockers on it.
Still haven't decided if I'm going to paint the heads.
Painted and rockers on it.
Still haven't decided if I'm going to paint the heads.
Looks great Don!
On my 70, I wanted (and painted) the aluminum heads. I want it to look as stock as possible. On my 73, I don't care so much, so I may very well leave the aluminum heads bare (or treat them to be sure they don't corrode and look dull).
I'm sure it'll be great when done either way!
On my 70, I wanted (and painted) the aluminum heads. I want it to look as stock as possible. On my 73, I don't care so much, so I may very well leave the aluminum heads bare (or treat them to be sure they don't corrode and look dull).
I'm sure it'll be great when done either way!
July was a slow month on the Charger rebuild.
Between Carlisle, rainy weather and my daughter's wedding I just couldn't get over there much.
I did stop by a couple times last week to finish the heads, rockers and put oil in it.
Water pump housing and pump installed and painted.
Warning: I did run into some issues with a couple of items I bought from Mancini. (Although they are usually pretty good)
Their 6 quart pan's Oil pan plug nut would not tighten at all. I called and they suggested an oversized drain plug.
I really don't want to take off the pan and windage tray and reassemble it.
Next the engine mount button/stud don't line up well with my bracket. (see below)
I can likely get this with a bit of countersink on the bracket. But it's pretty simple stuff it should just fit.
Oh and my crank pulley won't fit over my shiny new balancer.
So the last three aftermarket parts don't fit. They just look good.
But I did get one side together with the manifold on it.
Between Carlisle, rainy weather and my daughter's wedding I just couldn't get over there much.
I did stop by a couple times last week to finish the heads, rockers and put oil in it.
Water pump housing and pump installed and painted.
Warning: I did run into some issues with a couple of items I bought from Mancini. (Although they are usually pretty good)
Their 6 quart pan's Oil pan plug nut would not tighten at all. I called and they suggested an oversized drain plug.
I really don't want to take off the pan and windage tray and reassemble it.
Next the engine mount button/stud don't line up well with my bracket. (see below)
I can likely get this with a bit of countersink on the bracket. But it's pretty simple stuff it should just fit.
Oh and my crank pulley won't fit over my shiny new balancer.
So the last three aftermarket parts don't fit. They just look good.
But I did get one side together with the manifold on it.
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Don, I used to say that there wasn't one part on my car that I didn't have to modify somehow.
The water pump housing and pump were from Mancini and I was pleased with the fit and finish on those.
So not totally knocking them I've had pretty good service from them historically.
So not totally knocking them I've had pretty good service from them historically.
A little further:
The oil pan plug holds oil now after a second try using an oversized plug with a piggyback nut.
I dumped about a quart of clean oil right through because I did get some metal filings when I threaded in the new plug.
Next I primed it and turned the crank. Didn't take long till oil flew out of the even bank over the edge cascading onto my block and the floor.
I had to help move all the Church rummage sale leftover "stuff" to the local community shop, Goodwill and other places.
Went back over on Saturday night and started putting on the intake.
The valley pan lined up nicely (as it should with new heads and an uncut deck).
But I didn't notice how steep and wide the intake runners are on the single plane.
Had to cut down the inside bolts, but I didn't have a cutoff wheel over there just a grinder on the angle grinder.
I took a while using a nut as a die to make sure they would start OK.
Finally I just set the valve covers on for the photo shoot.
I think it looks pretty cool.
The oil pan plug holds oil now after a second try using an oversized plug with a piggyback nut.
I dumped about a quart of clean oil right through because I did get some metal filings when I threaded in the new plug.
Next I primed it and turned the crank. Didn't take long till oil flew out of the even bank over the edge cascading onto my block and the floor.
I had to help move all the Church rummage sale leftover "stuff" to the local community shop, Goodwill and other places.
Went back over on Saturday night and started putting on the intake.
The valley pan lined up nicely (as it should with new heads and an uncut deck).
But I didn't notice how steep and wide the intake runners are on the single plane.
Had to cut down the inside bolts, but I didn't have a cutoff wheel over there just a grinder on the angle grinder.
I took a while using a nut as a die to make sure they would start OK.
Finally I just set the valve covers on for the photo shoot.
I think it looks pretty cool.
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Don, looks like you spent some time cleaning up those ports.
I bought them ported, supposedly from a reputable shop on the west coast.
They do look really good but I doubt the engine combination will push their capabilities much.
Some of the brackets and accessories are now on there.
The balancer turned out to be a problem child .
A ridge inside the bore prevented it from seating fully.
I didn't have a stone over there just some cutters and sandpaper.
Next the step for the crank pulley was too large and I had to machine the hole in the pulley.
Finally had to relocate one of the bolt holes.
But it is installed properly now.
The balancer turned out to be a problem child .
A ridge inside the bore prevented it from seating fully.
I didn't have a stone over there just some cutters and sandpaper.
Next the step for the crank pulley was too large and I had to machine the hole in the pulley.
Finally had to relocate one of the bolt holes.
But it is installed properly now.
After nearly 4 months the engine is back in its proper home.
Special thanks to @Skytrooper (Matt) for his help.
He even helped me pick up and organize beforehand.
Today the new transmission gets bolted in
Special thanks to @Skytrooper (Matt) for his help.
He even helped me pick up and organize beforehand.
Today the new transmission gets bolted in
Great milestone, and good on Skytrooper to help out as well!
My son David and I just bolted in the transmission.
Sorry no pictures.
It looks like a transmission under a car just use your imagination...
Sorry no pictures.
It looks like a transmission under a car just use your imagination...
Lol. It hurts my head when I try!
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