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66 stock Hemi - what causes cold engine stuttering from 1200 rpm up until warm?

AR67GTX

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I took my 66 stock Hemi out today for the first time in a while. Fired up good and set into a fast idle and I let it idle like that for a few minutes. After it started to warm up it has this stutter in the fast idle of about 1500 rpm that vibrates everything and feels like a severe imbalance or something. It’s had this since I got it a few years ago but it seemed worse today in the cold weather. Kick off the fast idle and it idles smooth. It continues when driving off but doesn’t feel like a miss as there’s no bucking, just a constant stutter. As the engine gets good and warm it smooths out and feels fine. As far as I can tell, all stock Hemi, stock carbs, stock jetting, stock dual point recurved for about 16 degrees base timing, stock intake, stock choke with tubes in place.

I also have a 427 Corvette I’ve owned for over 35 years with an old school L88 headed 427 and a big cam. It also used to do the same thing upon a cold start, throttle up with a stutter. I learned to idle it a little bit and turn it off to heat soak a little while and that eliminated some of it when I finally drive off. In any case it also goes away after the engine gets warmed up. Last year I took the open plenum aluminum L88 intake off it (center divider in plenum milled out by GM and put a stock L72 (427/425) intake on it which is the same aluminum casting as the L88, but has a full height divider separating the upper and lower plenum tracks. This seems to have greatly, if not completely, eliminated the stuttering after a cold start. It’s at least much better.

This has me thinking it’s something to do with aluminum intakes, engine heat, and maybe poor gas vaporization and distribution on cool passages, and maybe plenum design too. However the Hemi intake has separate throttle bores but with the 2 carbs the combined inner, upper and lower plenums are probably pretty large. I have the heat tubes hooked up to the intake but somewhere along the line the heat riser valve was removed and shaft bores welded up so it takes a while to get heat up there.

Is anyone else with a Hemi dealing with similar behavior? Is there some other reason for cold rpm stuttering? Maybe choke tuning? Right now it’s probably set a little rich as the motor has to warm up pretty good before it comes off fast idle.
 
I think that you just answered your own question, something to do with the heat riser tubes.
 
Thats going to be the nature of the beast. If that bothers you trade it for a Honda. [lol]
 
So all Hemis have the same cold-natured behavior? It was vibrating/stuttering pretty good today, who car shaking. Guess I’ll try leaning down the choke some.
 
My Uncle was a lifelong mechanic and he always said to keep it on the lean side.
That would be my first thing to try.
 
Using that logic, would you lean in the fall and spring, and richen it in the summer?
 
So all Hemis have the same cold-natured behavior? It was vibrating/stuttering pretty good today, who car shaking. Guess I’ll try leaning down the choke some.
Lots of variables. Cold plugs, rich choke, no heat riser, cold intake,just to name a few. With cold fuel puddling in a cold intake plenum that motor needs heat to burn the fuel. Look how most 2 strokes act till they heat up. Even with no choke they can shake rattle and roll until there is heat to aid in fuel burn.
 
It's all in the carb settings and gap tolerances....I guarantee if you had a new fuel injection system, this would not be an issue at start-up.
 
Yeah, I went back and looked and it was last winter and early spring when I was replacing the intake gaskets and going through some things on the carbs, I must have put the choke back a little rich and by the time I got it out again the weather was warming up. I’ll lean it back a couple notches and see how that does. These hot air/thermo-coil chokes that lack a vacuum pull off to set the gap kind of throw me on adjusting them. I think the divorced chokes with a pull off are more forgiving to set up. That I changed the manifold on my Corvette and it seemed to improve may just be from a slight change to the choke settings when I put it back together.
 
Yeah, I went back and looked and it was last winter and early spring when I was replacing the intake gaskets and going through some things on the carbs, I must have put the choke back a little rich and by the time I got it out again the weather was warming up. I’ll lean it back a couple notches and see how that does. These hot air/thermo-coil chokes that lack a vacuum pull off to set the gap kind of throw me on adjusting them. I think the divorced chokes with a pull off are more forgiving to set up. That I changed the manifold on my Corvette and it seemed to improve may just be from a slight change to the choke settings when I put it back together.
Heavy choke will quickly soot the plugs and cause misfires until they can clean up. What plugs are you running? Also what camshaft?
 
These two probably rattle and rumble better than most Hondas.


 
I think the 66-67 carbs with that center "vacuum leak" idle adjustment screw/bolt don't help tune-ability.
 
Best guess from me is the transition from choke on to fully open with an engine not fully warmed up thru all its parts. Until SOME heat is generated in the intake manifold you will have poor fuel atomization and the symptoms you describe until the heat is adequate. A rich mixture (choke on) will mask the problem. And as stated, fuel injection will adjust itself to completely remove the problem. Sounds like your Corvette had the same issue: slow moving fuel mixture that wouldn't atomize properly until heat helped it. 2nd intake moved mixture quicker which would help. Remember one thing in my opinion: we all want cold air incoming to the carburetor, but after that air gets into the intake of a fully warmed-up engine it is heated up MUCH more than the mixture in a COLD engine. It needs SOME warmth to atomize. Just my thoughts.
 
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