67 440 valve cover vent

[Gridiron]

Yes more questions from the newb. So I have been chasing the not starting when the engine is good and hot problem. So far I have been able to make it better. I narrowed it down to vapor lock and once she had set the fuel had boiled out of the bowls. If fact I finally heard it one day. I put a 1/2" spacer and that has helped a lot but it still tries to not start and will die after it is good and warm. I am about to insulate the fuel line and maybe even reroute it away from the valve cover. I was wondering what ya'll think about me going with just a regular valve cover vent instead of the one that routes the hot gasses back to the air breather? Also the PCV hose is going to the base of the carb. Can I do away with this or should I just leave that alone? or just vent it with a breather?

 

[coloradodave]

Leave the PCV hose connected to the base of the carburetor. The other breather hose is taking filtered air from inside the air cleaner and introducing it to the engine through the valve cover (vacuum is created by the PCV valve side). Best to leave it as well.
These have nothing to do with the 'heat' of an engine.

 

[Gridiron]

Leave the PCV hose connected to the base of the carburetor. The other breather hose is taking filtered air from inside the air cleaner and introducing it to the engine through the valve cover (vacuum is created by the PCV valve side). Best to leave it as well.
These have nothing to do with the 'heat' of an engine.

thank you

 

[Jerry Hall]

I am about to insulate the fuel line and maybe even reroute it away from the valve cover.

If the fuel line is stock, it's not on the valve cover. A good picture is worth many words, but you haven't told us about how the fuel line is routed now, or what carburetor, etc. On most 67 383's and 440's there was foil wrapped foam between the intake and valley pan, that shields heat from the bottom of the carburetor.

 

[Fran Blacker]

Is your fuel pump old? Could be weak(not enough pressure )? The noisy alternative, an electric pump would probably cure it.
Is your non-metalic? Phenolic spacer is a good choice.

 

[Ranger16]

I had a similar problem when I first bought my car. I could hear the fuel percolating after shut down and it was running a bit on the high side. Fuel line insulation did not help. I found it had the factory recommended 190° thermostat in it. Once I installed a 180° stat, it hasn't happened since.

 

[Jerry Hall]

I had a similar problem when I first bought my car. I could hear the fuel percolating after shut down and it was running a bit on the high side. Fuel line insulation did not help. I found it had the factory recommended 190° thermostat in it. Once I installed a 180° stat, it hasn't happened since.

I run 160's anytime I go through a cooling system.

 

[turbine68rt]

Yes more questions from the newb. So I have been chasing the not starting when the engine is good and hot problem. So far I have been able to make it better. I narrowed it down to vapor lock and once she had set the fuel had boiled out of the bowls. If fact I finally heard it one day. I put a 1/2" spacer and that has helped a lot but it still tries to not start and will die after it is good and warm. I am about to insulate the fuel line and maybe even reroute it away from the valve cover. I was wondering what ya'll think about me going with just a regular valve cover vent instead of the one that routes the hot gasses back to the air breather? Also the PCV hose is going to the base of the carb. Can I do away with this or should I just leave that alone? or just vent it with a breather?

Do you have access to ethanol-free fuel?

 

[Mick56]

Check the heat riser. Years ago on my 66 Sport Fury 383, it was rusted closed, and I also had a hot start problem. After I freed it, it quit routing all the exhaust from that side through the intake.

 

[Jerry Hall]

Check the heat riser. Years ago on my 66 Sport Fury 383, it was rusted closed, and I also had a hot start problem. After I freed it, it quit routing all the exhaust from that side through the intake.

I didn't think of that one, glad we have lots of experience here.

 

[Gridiron]

Hmmmmmmmmmmmmm, Yes I have access to non ethanol fuel. I have to drive a little to get it. The heat riser will be looked at soon. Thank you so much for the info

 

[Gridiron]

Is your fuel pump old? Could be weak(not enough pressure )? The noisy alternative, an electric pump would probably cure it.
Is your non-metalic? Phenolic spacer is a good choice.

I bought a wooden one. It helped a ton,
carb is 1906 edelbrock new

 

[Gridiron]

If the fuel line is stock, it's not on the valve cover. A good picture is worth many words, but you haven't told us about how the fuel line is routed now, or what carburetor, etc. On most 67 383's and 440's there was foil wrapped foam between the intake and valley pan, that shields heat from the bottom of the carburetor.

The fuel line comes up directly behind the alternator and then passes right beside the valve cover in the valley and then into the carb. I will try and get a pic tonight.

 

[Gridiron]

Check the heat riser. Years ago on my 66 Sport Fury 383, it was rusted closed, and I also had a hot start problem. After I freed it, it quit routing all the exhaust from that side through the intake.

Should the heat riser move freely back and forth with the engine cold? or does it move as the can warms up?

 

[turbine68rt]

Should the heat riser move freely back and forth with the engine cold? or does it move as the can warms up?

If your thermostatic spring is still functional you should feel some resistance while rotating it open (cold), but if it moves freely in either direction more than likely the spring is broken or missing completely. There is a kit to rebuild these but very pricey.