tmaleck
Well-Known Member
My 68 has a similar driveshaft. I assume it is to help in balancing the driveshaft.
68 Charger R/T Clone refurb
- Thread starter funknut
- Start date
funknut
Well-Known Member
Engine is out! I worked off and on for a long 2 weekend days, but by Sunday night the engine was fully removed. I learned a lot, and while I hope I don't have to do this too many more times, at least I know it will be a lot faster if I have to do it again. ;)
It is an awesome feeling of progress to stand in the engine bay. I'm really looking forward to getting things cleaned up and the floors out.
I will say it's hard to imagine what 1000 lbs is but trying to push the engine/trans around the driveway made it very real. ;)
It is an awesome feeling of progress to stand in the engine bay. I'm really looking forward to getting things cleaned up and the floors out.
I will say it's hard to imagine what 1000 lbs is but trying to push the engine/trans around the driveway made it very real. ;)
funknut
Well-Known Member
De frame, de frame!
After I pulled the motor and started cleaning up the dirt, grime and the paint on top of the dirt and grime, I found my first big surprise. I started another thread looking for opinions, but here are some pics of the carnage. Not sure what was holding that frame rail together, but doesn't look like much.
https://www.forbbodiesonly.com/moparforum/threads/frame-rail-damage-opinions-wanted.177293/
After I pulled the motor and started cleaning up the dirt, grime and the paint on top of the dirt and grime, I found my first big surprise. I started another thread looking for opinions, but here are some pics of the carnage. Not sure what was holding that frame rail together, but doesn't look like much.
https://www.forbbodiesonly.com/moparforum/threads/frame-rail-damage-opinions-wanted.177293/
showard
Well-Known Member
Great progress! At least the frame rails are not rusty and are solid. I don't have any real suggestions on what to do to fix the problem. Heat it and pound back into shape? Cut out and weld in new?
funknut
Well-Known Member
Not many pics as I was working solo this weekend but did make some good progress and can get it back in the garage tomorrow. Too tired tonight and it'll be easier with a helper tomorrow.
I was able to:
- Swap leaf springs L to R
- Install new rear Bilstein shocks
- Install new rear brake flex line
- Install new front to rear brake hard line
- Clean, clean and clean.
The amount of caked mud and dirt on this car's underside is incredible. If you told me the previous owner was doing offroad hillclimbs I'd believe it. I spent hours with degreaser, a pressure washer and steel bristle brush and definitely made progress but it's far from what anyone would call clean.
I wasn't able to get the rear disc conversion done, but that wasn't really in the plans for today anyhow. As I spent more time looking it over I will probably need to cut and flare the rear brake lines, so definitely a job for another day.
I contacted a couple frame shops here locally and will hopefully be getting some in-person opinions on the front frame rails in the next couple weeks.
I was able to:
- Swap leaf springs L to R
- Install new rear Bilstein shocks
- Install new rear brake flex line
- Install new front to rear brake hard line
- Clean, clean and clean.
The amount of caked mud and dirt on this car's underside is incredible. If you told me the previous owner was doing offroad hillclimbs I'd believe it. I spent hours with degreaser, a pressure washer and steel bristle brush and definitely made progress but it's far from what anyone would call clean.
I wasn't able to get the rear disc conversion done, but that wasn't really in the plans for today anyhow. As I spent more time looking it over I will probably need to cut and flare the rear brake lines, so definitely a job for another day.
I contacted a couple frame shops here locally and will hopefully be getting some in-person opinions on the front frame rails in the next couple weeks.
funknut
Well-Known Member
Not much progress to show in the way of big ticket items, but plodding along on a bunch of smaller items. Hopefully I'll have some bigger things checked off the list in the next couple weeks. Dash cluster is getting close to completed, just need to finalize fitment on a couple things and decided to order a tic-toc-tach, so final assembly will wait for a bit. The grille is close to reassembly. The plastic parts are completed, grille frame is painted, i just need to sandblast and paint some of the bracketry for the light actuators. I am waiting on vacuum hoses and want to build the front wiring harness before I put it all together.
With the engine out, getting the last sections of the floor removed was a lot easier. I spent quite a bit of time cleaning inside the frame rails and trans crossmember and the inner rockers. They're not as clean as I might like them to be, but the worst of the dirt is out. I keep telling myself that whatever I do is better than nothing. I will sand/scuff what I can reach in prep for por-15 or chassis saver. The enclosed parts of the frame rails will get Eastwood internal frame coating.
I noticed water seeping past the windshield, so I decided to bite the bullet and remove it. I'll do the removal myself but get a pro to install it with a new rubber seal. Seems like cheap insurance. With the windshield out I'll remove and repaint the dash frame and re-glue the upper dash pad.
Trim removal went fairly well. I had a feeling the low-buck paint job was going to be a bit delicate around the trim since it was resprayed with the trim in place. Despite masking and cutting around the trim with a razor, I still had a couple small chips along the upper leading edge. Should be easy enough to touch up. The lower window channel looks really good without any visible rust. I guess I won't know for sure until I get the windshield out, but it looks promising so far.
Plan for the next couple weeks in no particular order:
- Remove windshield
- Remove dash frame
- Clean firewall, remove insulation
- Test-fit 1-piece floor pan, locate and drill holes for plug welding.
- Prep and paint inside of frame rails and along the rockers (por-15 or chassis saver)
- Prep and paint inside of quarters (probably spray chassis enamel, either Eastwood or Summit brand) in preparation for reinstalling quarter windows.
- Spray internal frame coating in the front frame rails and inner rockers
- Install new 3/8" fuel line and 1/4" return
With the engine out, getting the last sections of the floor removed was a lot easier. I spent quite a bit of time cleaning inside the frame rails and trans crossmember and the inner rockers. They're not as clean as I might like them to be, but the worst of the dirt is out. I keep telling myself that whatever I do is better than nothing. I will sand/scuff what I can reach in prep for por-15 or chassis saver. The enclosed parts of the frame rails will get Eastwood internal frame coating.
I noticed water seeping past the windshield, so I decided to bite the bullet and remove it. I'll do the removal myself but get a pro to install it with a new rubber seal. Seems like cheap insurance. With the windshield out I'll remove and repaint the dash frame and re-glue the upper dash pad.
Trim removal went fairly well. I had a feeling the low-buck paint job was going to be a bit delicate around the trim since it was resprayed with the trim in place. Despite masking and cutting around the trim with a razor, I still had a couple small chips along the upper leading edge. Should be easy enough to touch up. The lower window channel looks really good without any visible rust. I guess I won't know for sure until I get the windshield out, but it looks promising so far.
Plan for the next couple weeks in no particular order:
- Remove windshield
- Remove dash frame
- Clean firewall, remove insulation
- Test-fit 1-piece floor pan, locate and drill holes for plug welding.
- Prep and paint inside of frame rails and along the rockers (por-15 or chassis saver)
- Prep and paint inside of quarters (probably spray chassis enamel, either Eastwood or Summit brand) in preparation for reinstalling quarter windows.
- Spray internal frame coating in the front frame rails and inner rockers
- Install new 3/8" fuel line and 1/4" return
showard
Well-Known Member
Sounds like you got a lot done. Keep the progress coming.
funknut
Well-Known Member
Little by little getting some things knocked out.
Last week my wife helped remove the windshield. I was going back and forth on this but as with everything I've ended up doing, I'm glad I did. The window channel is luckily in really good shape. The poor paint job just keeps on giving, though. The paint under the windshield gasket sealer was peeling up, so water was definitely settling in there. The primer is adhering well so there's not much exposed metal, but I will need to address the paint there.
The weather has been beautiful, if not a bit warm. Perfect weather for painting, so I pushed the Charger out in the driveway and painted the inner frame and crossmember sections, and everything else that won't be easily painted from underneath. I masked off the flanges and then applied POR-15 to the inner rails, then unmasked and sprayed U-POL weld-through primer for anything that might see a weld. I also did the inner quarters and doors with POR-15.
It's been a while since I've used POR-15 and I don't remember it being so thin. Took a little getting used to, but it was easy to work into tight areas like inside the lower quarters, so I'm pretty confident it covers well. Anything's better than it was. ;)
I rust treated the frame extensions and I'm not sure what that cross piece is called, but they all got a soak in phosphoric acid, 2 coats of rust treating primer and 3 coats of Summit brand chassis enamel. The more I use it the more I like it. I was going to do the inner wheel wells in bedliner but I may just rattle can them. It's pretty durable and very easy to touch up.
I also spent some time working the radiator support back into shape. To give you an idea of the type of work a previous owner had done the radiator support was caked in dirt UNDER the last paint job. I used 2" angle steel as my straight edge and massaged the lower frame back into alignment. It's not perfect but it's quite a bit better. Finished with shot of black enamel to keep the rust away.
Last week my wife helped remove the windshield. I was going back and forth on this but as with everything I've ended up doing, I'm glad I did. The window channel is luckily in really good shape. The poor paint job just keeps on giving, though. The paint under the windshield gasket sealer was peeling up, so water was definitely settling in there. The primer is adhering well so there's not much exposed metal, but I will need to address the paint there.
The weather has been beautiful, if not a bit warm. Perfect weather for painting, so I pushed the Charger out in the driveway and painted the inner frame and crossmember sections, and everything else that won't be easily painted from underneath. I masked off the flanges and then applied POR-15 to the inner rails, then unmasked and sprayed U-POL weld-through primer for anything that might see a weld. I also did the inner quarters and doors with POR-15.
It's been a while since I've used POR-15 and I don't remember it being so thin. Took a little getting used to, but it was easy to work into tight areas like inside the lower quarters, so I'm pretty confident it covers well. Anything's better than it was. ;)
I rust treated the frame extensions and I'm not sure what that cross piece is called, but they all got a soak in phosphoric acid, 2 coats of rust treating primer and 3 coats of Summit brand chassis enamel. The more I use it the more I like it. I was going to do the inner wheel wells in bedliner but I may just rattle can them. It's pretty durable and very easy to touch up.
I also spent some time working the radiator support back into shape. To give you an idea of the type of work a previous owner had done the radiator support was caked in dirt UNDER the last paint job. I used 2" angle steel as my straight edge and massaged the lower frame back into alignment. It's not perfect but it's quite a bit better. Finished with shot of black enamel to keep the rust away.
funknut
Well-Known Member
No pics of this part, but with the windshield out I pulled the dash frame. As I was removing the dash frame I pulled on the upper dash pad it came clean off and smacked me in the forehead. ZERO nuts holding it on to the dash frame!
Sanded the dash frame down as much as I could and then hit it with primer and the same Rustoleum Textured Black I used on the steering column. I'll give it a week or so to fully dry and then get it up on a stand and start assembling the dash, cluster, vents, etc. to prepare for wiring it up.
The dash pad is pretty rough and cracked. It had already been covered by some vinyl, which is still in fair shape, I just need to clean it up, re-glue and dye/paint it .
Other miscellaneous jobs include removing the wiper pivots and garbage insulation under the dash. That stuff is awful.
Also did some parts ordering. The speedo cable was routed poorly and got cooked on the exhaust, so I have one of those coming. I also decided to go with electric fans. I had a heck of a time deciding but opted for this kit:
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/flx-410
- Wiper pivot gaskets
- Trunk divider or whatever that thing is that goes behind the rear seat
- Tic-toc-tach
Lots of other odds and ends like bolts, clips and other hardware.
Oh, the dash speaker had completely disintegrated. Looking for a solution to that. I was going to try and put speakers in the kick panels but I doubt I'll like how that looks, so may just try to replace the stock setup. I saw RetroSound makes a replacement. They make 2, one is low profile for twice the price, but I can't really tell the difference, if there is one, for sound quality.
https://www.retromanufacturing.com/..._1968~mk_dodge~md_charger&variant=31332229262
Sanded the dash frame down as much as I could and then hit it with primer and the same Rustoleum Textured Black I used on the steering column. I'll give it a week or so to fully dry and then get it up on a stand and start assembling the dash, cluster, vents, etc. to prepare for wiring it up.
The dash pad is pretty rough and cracked. It had already been covered by some vinyl, which is still in fair shape, I just need to clean it up, re-glue and dye/paint it .
Other miscellaneous jobs include removing the wiper pivots and garbage insulation under the dash. That stuff is awful.
Also did some parts ordering. The speedo cable was routed poorly and got cooked on the exhaust, so I have one of those coming. I also decided to go with electric fans. I had a heck of a time deciding but opted for this kit:
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/flx-410
- Wiper pivot gaskets
- Trunk divider or whatever that thing is that goes behind the rear seat
- Tic-toc-tach
Lots of other odds and ends like bolts, clips and other hardware.
Oh, the dash speaker had completely disintegrated. Looking for a solution to that. I was going to try and put speakers in the kick panels but I doubt I'll like how that looks, so may just try to replace the stock setup. I saw RetroSound makes a replacement. They make 2, one is low profile for twice the price, but I can't really tell the difference, if there is one, for sound quality.
https://www.retromanufacturing.com/..._1968~mk_dodge~md_charger&variant=31332229262
funknut
Well-Known Member
Floors are in! (not really)
Just a test fit for now. I'm going to mark the frame rails and cross members from underneath so I can drill holes for plug welding.
The forward edge was fairly well tweaked during shipping, but I didn't catch it when it arrived. I was able to beat it back into shape, more or less, in about 20-30 mins. The rear edge fits great, the drain holes and seatbelt anchors line up great. The forward edge will need some massaging to get everything to line up properly. I think once I get it out of the car and can put some leverage on it, it should hopefully get back into shape without too much more work.
Feels good to see it sitting in the car, even if it will be a couple weeks before I can get to welding.
Just a test fit for now. I'm going to mark the frame rails and cross members from underneath so I can drill holes for plug welding.
The forward edge was fairly well tweaked during shipping, but I didn't catch it when it arrived. I was able to beat it back into shape, more or less, in about 20-30 mins. The rear edge fits great, the drain holes and seatbelt anchors line up great. The forward edge will need some massaging to get everything to line up properly. I think once I get it out of the car and can put some leverage on it, it should hopefully get back into shape without too much more work.
Feels good to see it sitting in the car, even if it will be a couple weeks before I can get to welding.
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Money may not grow on trees, but Charger parts do.
showard
Well-Known Member
Everything is looking good!
Keep up the good work.
Keep up the good work.
funknut
Well-Known Member
Chipping away at some more jobs.
1) Gauge cluster resto is complete except for one small problem. A little hard to pick out in the photo, but anyone spot it? Tip: it's on the left half of the cluster.
And a before pic from 6 mos ago:
I considered several different options for the imitation chrome, but ultimately went with the Molotow Liquid Chrome pens and used a water-based clear from Spaz Stix to protect it. It did dull the chrome a tiny bit, but maybe 5%. Definitely worth it for the protection.
The problem that's bugging me is the tic-toc-tach. The dials are rotated in the housing 5 degrees or more. Should be easy enough to fix by elongating the holes, just annoying for a $400 part.
2) Removed all the bonding adhesive from the windshield channel. Cut out most of it with a razor blade but the hero of the operation was this 1" carbide scraper:
https://www.amazon.com/Bahco-Premium-Ergonomic-Carbide-Scraper/dp/B000288LOW
3) Finished final fitup, drilled all the holes in the replacement floor pan and did my first welding on the seat belt reinforcement plates. Not sure what happened but the holes are not lined up terribly well. I threaded a bolt in to hold it in place and then clamped it but the bolt must've slipped when I clamped it. Not a huge deal as the belts will attach just fine, just a little sloppy.
Weld was a little globby right off the gun but that's what grinders are for. ;) Penetration looks pretty good to me.
1) Gauge cluster resto is complete except for one small problem. A little hard to pick out in the photo, but anyone spot it? Tip: it's on the left half of the cluster.
And a before pic from 6 mos ago:
I considered several different options for the imitation chrome, but ultimately went with the Molotow Liquid Chrome pens and used a water-based clear from Spaz Stix to protect it. It did dull the chrome a tiny bit, but maybe 5%. Definitely worth it for the protection.
The problem that's bugging me is the tic-toc-tach. The dials are rotated in the housing 5 degrees or more. Should be easy enough to fix by elongating the holes, just annoying for a $400 part.
2) Removed all the bonding adhesive from the windshield channel. Cut out most of it with a razor blade but the hero of the operation was this 1" carbide scraper:
https://www.amazon.com/Bahco-Premium-Ergonomic-Carbide-Scraper/dp/B000288LOW
3) Finished final fitup, drilled all the holes in the replacement floor pan and did my first welding on the seat belt reinforcement plates. Not sure what happened but the holes are not lined up terribly well. I threaded a bolt in to hold it in place and then clamped it but the bolt must've slipped when I clamped it. Not a huge deal as the belts will attach just fine, just a little sloppy.
Weld was a little globby right off the gun but that's what grinders are for. ;) Penetration looks pretty good to me.
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Where'd the hour hand go?
funknut
Well-Known Member
It's there, it's just under the minute hand. (It's supposed to be under the minute hand, right?)
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You're going to need a knob and screw to set the time.
funknut
Well-Known Member
Yep, have those in the kit, just haven't done final assembly until I finish testing the gauges again and adjust the clock/tach to align correctly.
funknut
Well-Known Member
Not a lot of consistent progress, but have been chipping away at a few jobs.
Dash frame is painted, dash cluster assembled, dash speaker and vents in, dash pads cleaned up and painted. Working on the dash trim panels and the passenger side had 2 of the posts broken off. Rather than try and rebuild them out of ABS I opted to try and bond some bolts onto the panel using some clear silicone adhesive. Nuts are added here to give the correct standoff from the dash frame.
Dash frame is painted, dash cluster assembled, dash speaker and vents in, dash pads cleaned up and painted. Working on the dash trim panels and the passenger side had 2 of the posts broken off. Rather than try and rebuild them out of ABS I opted to try and bond some bolts onto the panel using some clear silicone adhesive. Nuts are added here to give the correct standoff from the dash frame.
funknut
Well-Known Member
My car didn’t come with a radio bezel so I bought a repop. Here’s a pic that compares the molotow chrome pen with the replacement panel. The molotow is definitely less shiny but I think a reasonable substitute for buying $500+ in parts. 
Considering they are shaded by the dash frame I don’t think it will draw the eye.
The radio bezel is on top.
Considering they are shaded by the dash frame I don’t think it will draw the eye.
The radio bezel is on top.
funknut
Well-Known Member
Welded in the US Car Tool core support brace. Pretty straightforward job for a novice. My car had been tweaked from a collision some time back, so getting it straight took a bit of time and a good amount of clamping. Here’s a pic before cleaning up the welds.
Sorry about the odd angles in some of these photos. My garage is very shallow and it’s tough to get wide angle pics, especially of the front and rear.
Sorry about the odd angles in some of these photos. My garage is very shallow and it’s tough to get wide angle pics, especially of the front and rear.
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