68 Charger Restomod Values

[Evoking]

I am about to pull the trigger on a gorgeous 68 Charger that is in absolutely mint condition (restored) inside and out. It was originally a 318 car optioned with heavy duty R/T suspension. It now has a very nice running and sounding 360 engine. My plan is to put a 500hp big block and new transmission in what ever non factor R/T charger I buy.

My question is this. Once you restomod a Charger and deviate from its original specs it is now a deviant restomod. From this point I would think it makes no difference whether the car started life as a 383 or 318. Meaning I am no worse off starting with an awesome once 318 car vs a once 383 car? They will have the same post restomod value assuming all else equal. True?

 

[mmissile]

There's always the person who thinks it could be restored to original, if it were a factory R/T, though. I think real muscle-cars have a higher perceived value....no matter what has been done to them. To some degree, I agree.

 

[Evoking]

There's always the person who thinks it could be restored to original, if it were a factory R/T, though. I think real muscle-cars have a higher perceived value....no matter what has been done to them. To some degree, I agree.

You agree that if the 318 car was restomodded to the exact same level as a 383 car their value would be the same?

 

[WP29440SE]

The true value of any car is exactly what the owner is willing to accept from a potential buyer. No two values are ever going to be exactly the same.

 

[Lionized]

You agree that if the 318 car was restomodded to the exact same level as a 383 car their value would be the same?

I believe/agree that what you start with will not matter nearly as much as what you end up with.

 

[Billccm]

I've observed very well done resto mod cars cross the auction block at very large prices in the six digits. Not sure if the return on investment was there, but really good ones don't sell cheap. Having said that, I missed out on a few resto mod cars that sold really FAST for what I believed was well under value. A few months back there was a B Body for sale on this forum with a 2007 5.7 Challenger Hemi driveline for 30ish and it sold three hours after listing. That car probably could have brought 40ish if he shopped it around awhile, but even at 40 there was probably little profit if at all.

I forget where I picked up this line (I think it was from a podacst awhile back):

"If you restored a car yourself and sold it for a profit you did something wrong" and I think that might apply to a resto mod car.

 

[69L48Z27]

You agree that if the 318 car was restomodded to the exact same level as a 383 car their value would be the same?

No, not in my opinion. I've seen way to many times where the car that started as a 6 banger does not bring the money an HP car would bring. I haven't seen as many RestoMod or PT Mopars trade hands but I've seen plenty of Chevys. Take two 69 Camaros, one 6cyl VIN and the other a good X code Z/28. Build them identical and the Z/28 can will do another 25%+.

 

[Evoking]

No, not in my opinion. I've seen way to many times where the car that started as a 6 banger does not bring the money an HP car would bring. I haven't seen as many RestoMod or PT Mopars trade hands but I've seen plenty of Chevys. Take two 69 Camaros, one 6cyl VIN and the other a good X code Z/28. Build them identical and the Z/28 can will do another 25%+.

Agreed. But you are comparing a 6 cylinder to the halo z/28. That would be like comparing the 6 cylinder Charger to an R/T. Which we are NOT doing here. We are comparing a non R/T V8 383 to a non R/T V8 318. I suspect no difference between these two when both restomodded to big block big hp greatness.

 

[SoCal440GTX]

I am about to pull the trigger on a gorgeous 68 Charger that is in absolutely mint condition (restored) inside and out. It was originally a 318 car optioned with heavy duty R/T suspension. It now has a very nice running and sounding 360 engine. My plan is to put a 500hp big block and new transmission in what ever non factor R/T charger I buy.

My question is this. Once you restomod a Charger and deviate from its original specs it is now a deviant restomod. From this point I would think it makes no difference whether the car started life as a 383 or 318. Meaning I am no worse off starting with an awesome once 318 car vs a once 383 car? They will have the same post restomod value assuming all else equal. True?

Do you think if someone turned a 1969 318 Sport Satellite into an A12 tribute car it would be worth as much as if it had started as a 383 RR? I think most people take a hard look at what they could "undo" the car back into.

 

[mmissile]

Agreed. But you are comparing a 6 cylinder to the halo z/28. That would be like comparing the 6 cylinder Charger to an R/T. Which we are NOT doing here. We are comparing a non R/T V8 383 to a non R/T V8 318. I suspect no difference between these two when both restomodded to big block big hp greatness.

You already have tour mind made up, and are looking for everyone to validate your thoughts. That'll never happen.

 

[CincyBoy]

I have thought about this long and hard as I went this route. I wanted to do a restomod so I didn't buy an RT because I would feel guilty not restoring it or altering it too much. So I got a single owner 318 car and I'm working on it. I'll keep all the original drive train in case someone wants it if it ever trades hands. So in my observation in Mopar anyway it is RT vs non RT cars (RT more valuable) unless you can prove you have a rare optioned base model.

 

[Evoking]

You already have tour mind made up, and are looking for everyone to validate your thoughts. That'll never happen.

Wasn't looking for validation. Was looking for data and personal experience or observation. Opinions mean nothing. In my research I have seen restomods that were once 318 cars asking $80k-$100k+. That begun to answer my question. Hearing others here concur backs up that data. Original block size matters when keeping original or restoring to original specs. Not so much when restomodding.

 

[Evoking]

I have thought about this long and hard as I went this route. I wanted to do a restomod so I didn't buy an RT because I would feel guilty not restoring it or altering it too much. So I got a single owner 318 car and I'm working on it. I'll keep all the original drive train in case someone wants it if it ever trades hands. So in my observation in Mopar anyway it is RT vs non RT cars (RT more valuable) unless you can prove you have a rare optioned base model.

Makes sense. And if such a car is truly rust free, gorgeous inside and out and now has a 500hp big block and not a rattle I believe it could fetch very good coin.

 

[SimDog]

While I can't give you hard numbers I can say that if I were looking at a 318 car and it was all original but was not a "Specialty" car I would rather buy one that had been resto-moded with the larger HP engine. Owning these cars for most is all about the fun and driveablility. I have just started on my own 68 Charger R/T. It was an original 440 R/T but the drive train was scavenged long ago. It will be a resto-mod to my liking because I plan on driving it A LOT!