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68 Coronet, slow project in Napa, CA

May need bushings as well but that is a good start.
Yeah, there are cheaper kits & more expensive kits... Some kits have bands & bushings... Some have just the frictions & no steels... There are performance & race kits.... But as a standard O/H that looks like a decent kit.... Back in the 90's I ordered a few from Mancini, they use to be genuine Mopar packaged parts & the kit use to be $89.00
 
Yeah, there are cheaper kits & more expensive kits... Some kits have bands & bushings... Some have just the frictions & no steels... There are performance & race kits.... But as a standard O/H that looks like a decent kit.... Back in the 90's I ordered a few from Mancini, they use to be genuine Mopar packaged parts & the kit use to be $89.00
Thanks to all for the advice regarding the transmission. I am leaning heavily toward pulling engine/trans and at least having the transmission gone through. I have never messed with the internals of an auto trans and probably won't start learning with this one. I still haven't even pulled the numbers off this transmission so I don't know if I would be better off rebuilding this one or one that I pulled from a Winnebago that has a GV overdrive on it. The Winnebago transmission numbers showed it was "medium duty".
 
I think I remember that 68 R/T driving around in the Santa Rosa area. I have some headlight rings and grille for a 68 if you need?
 
I think I remember that 68 R/T driving around in the Santa Rosa area. I have some headlight rings and grille for a 68 if you need?
My grill is not bad, but if yours is better I am interested to hear what you'd like for it. This car came from the Santa Margarita area where it spent 30 years in a garage, based on the seller's information/story. Ironically, I was raised in Santa Rosa.
 
I would go through the transmission too, at least figure out which year and parts are in it. After 50 years, it might not have the original transmission?
If the Input shaft spline count is 19, the transmission is 1966 or earlier (even though my '67 Coronet had a 19 spline transmission?)
1967 and later have 24 spline input shaft which is the most common and what off the shelf torque converters use.
If it has the original style one wire neutral safety switch, the transmission is likely a 1967 through 1970.
not sure if they switched in 1970 or 1971 to the three wire NSS & Backup light switch in the transmission, but the internals also changed to the wide bushing front drum, and the plastic pump vent. Depending on the model, the transmission could have different number of clutches in the front drum, and different band lever ratios, and such.
 
I would go through the transmission too, at least figure out which year and parts are in it. After 50 years, it might not have the original transmission?
If the Input shaft spline count is 19, the transmission is 1966 or earlier (even though my '67 Coronet had a 19 spline transmission?)
1967 and later have 24 spline input shaft which is the most common and what off the shelf torque converters use.
If it has the original style one wire neutral safety switch, the transmission is likely a 1967 through 1970.
not sure if they switched in 1970 or 1971 to the three wire NSS & Backup light switch in the transmission, but the internals also changed to the wide bushing front drum, and the plastic pump vent. Depending on the model, the transmission could have different number of clutches in the front drum, and different band lever ratios, and such.
Thanks. I will try to get under there today to get the numbers. Don't believe it is original to the car as it doesn't have the vin stamped at the top of the bell housing (the engine vin isn't there either).
 
Is your car a LA built car? (not sure if this is totally correct for 1968?) WS23L8E vin?
Just curious, my 1969 Coronet Hardtop is a Los Angeles built car, and I tracked it back a few owners to 1977, but I think it was in the LA area.
Found a girls HS class ring under the back seat. 1978 Santa Clara High School.
 
Is your car a LA built car? (not sure if this is totally correct for 1968?) WS23L8E vin?
Yes. The tape was on there when it arrived, and this is a photo from that day. I don't care if people see the VIN.

IMG_2296 (2).JPG
 
Hope most of the original parts are still there. When I tracked my car back about 3 owners, he bought the car from a used car lot in 1977, and at sometime after the 440/727 was replaced with a 318/833 for fuel mileage, so the original drive train is long gone. Seems it was pretty well stripped for bracket racing (almost no interior), and then the guy I got it from was trying to put it back together with a non-HP 440/727 and the wrong seats. That car is still a basket case, and what I might Gen III Hemi swap. I have a 2008 6.1L hemi and NAG trans that might get put into the car, but the entire trunk needs replaced as the racer guy had pop-rivited sheet metal as the trunk.
 
Look out, here comes the number nazis! :lol:
I laugh, but part of me must be one. I know it shouldn't bother me but the lack of VIN and HP on the engine really bum me out. This missing fender tag just pisses me off.
 
In a way it's only important for resale. If you plan on enjoying the car it doesn't matter.
This is only my opinion.
 
Dang, my fender tag is missing too. The guy I bought the car from removed it to paint the engine compartment and lost the fender tag?
 
Hope most of the original parts are still there.
With my missing fender tag and no long term prior owner info, I can't say too much about original parts. I know it was originally PP1 based on finding it in every nook and cranny. I believe that it was an original AC car because of what is left on the car. I used to hope that the engine was original, but it has no HP stamp and no VIN. It is period correct though. My biggest, pleasant surprise was finding the padded ash tray door jammed in the back seat cushion. I thought it was gone and those things don't appear to be cheap. I don't mind spending money on the car, but not on stuff like ash tray doors. I don't even smoke. The 150 speedo is still there but I am replacing that with a Dakota Digital.
 
In a way it's only important for resale. If you plan on enjoying the car it doesn't matter.
This is only my opinion.
I know this on an intellectual level, but part of me dwells on it. If the VIN didn't show it to be an R/T, I wouldn't have made the trade, so I guess some of that stuff really matters to me.
 
I laugh, but part of me must be one. I know it shouldn't bother me but the lack of VIN and HP on the engine really bum me out. This missing fender tag just pisses me off.
I get it, some people are number nazis, some aren’t, enjoy the hobby like you like it, don’t worry about pleasing others

My GTX lost its fender tag sometime in its life, which kinda bums me because I want to know the options it had. Not only is the 440 in it a year newer which doesn’t bother me, it’s not even an hp, kinda bums me because the horsepower rating, but all it takes is a few parts and it’s up to spec.

That color looks great!
 
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